Thorfun

the logic was i was copying others on here! 😂 the temp probes will feed back to our home automation system to allow, if required, to monitor the temp of the screed and adjust flow temp/heating accordingly. tbh, i doubt i'll ever use them but for the small expense of purchasing them from ebay and putting them in while we did the UFH it was a bit of a no-brainer to have them just in case. as to where and how many, i just put one per room.

our basement has 200mm EPS under the slab as an insulated slab. at the time I wanted to run the UFH pipes within the slab but it didn't work out that way and so we eventually put down 25mm PIR on top of the slab (mostly to aid in the stapling down of the UFH pipes rather than anything else) and then UFH pipes followed by a 50mm cemfloor liquid screed. I don't see a problem doing it this way except for the extra cost.

we didn't put PIR inside studs. our studs are filled with 140mm glass wool (Isover 32) with 80mm/100mm PIR internal to the studs. What IS a PITA is cutting that internal PIR around the roof attic trusses. no issues when insulating internally on cut roofs as it's simply a large sheet screwed through to the rafters/studs. but, if the OP is going pumped cellulose in a 140mm TF then I would suggest they consider other companies that offer twin wall 300mm thick walls fully pumped with cellulose and get rid of the petroleum based insulation. Although, if the TF company is doing the PIR install work for you then it's not such a ball ache! I'm sure I've saved a load of money doing it myself but it is so very time consuming I do kind of regret it.

Got nothing to lose giving it a go I guess, although it is a small DJI Mini drone. Need to wait for the sun to come out next week though.

I do, at some point, need to purchase a scaffold tower to board and decorate our vaulted ceilings. Maybe I should wait until I have one and do it from that.

Would be a lot of fun!

Although, that’s actually a darn good idea! Might be tricky to shuffle it along and would involve lots of pulling it back and throwing it up again. But could work. Will add it to the list of things to try.

How is that ‘on the cheap’?

just had a great idea! although it might be straight out of the @pocster handbook I have a drone..........make a 'flag' and attach it to the bottom of the drone and fly that up quite a way away from the panels so the flag doesn't need to be big to shade a larger area! genius. what could possibly go wrong?

I'd rather do it on the cheap and I'm ok on a ladder but it's a valid point. will have a go myself and then if/when I fail will call my roofer. 😂

Cheers. Fortunately the wife is pretty darn good with a sewing machine so I’ll give her the job of making the shade. Then wait for a sunny day and take it one panel at a time.

don't suppose you have space in the ceiling to have a drop down mechanism to hide the projector away? that'd be so cool and also negate the need for extra cupboards to hide it. 😉

greetings. long story short, I have a list of solaredge optimiser serial numbers but I need to figure out which one is behind which panel on my roof. no scaffolding and GSE trays so couldn't see the optimiser even if I did have scaffolding. I have access to the installer monitoring/site setup website at solaredge.com (which is where I see the S/Ns) and want to monitor my per-panel energy generation via the optimisers but need to know where each is! I was thinking a 'sail' or piece of fabric on the end of a long pole to shade each panel one at a time and noting which serial number reduced in generation? anyone got any better ideas or know of a better way to do this?

I like the built-in look too but would worry about the projector overheating. what if you put a grill behind the projector that vents (via a small computer fan?) in to the kitchen? then the warm air will be taken away by the MVHR extract in there? just a thought. I wouldn't worry about fan noise as, even though you will hear the fan when you have the sound up on the film/tv/game you're utilising the projector for you won't hear the fan.

It’s a long and convoluted route from the comms room in the basement to that cupboard! Might make any ducting impractical for pulling cables through.

in my opinion it is way too high to install! find other companies and get other quotes and don't waste any more time with this company. mine is a long story but, to cut it short, a local company installed my ASHP, UVC, buffer tank. they also wired up the electrics (I'd already run an SWA cable for them), connected my mains water connection to the cylinder, lagged all the pipes, connected it all up to my UFH manifold and got my heating going and will be back to connect the UVC up to my domestic water manifolds. all for under £4k.

ps. I might run a fibre cable and a couple of cat6a cables to that cupboard off the garage anyway for future potential use. got nothing to lose really apart from some £s in cable.

and that makes sense. it is kind of what I was thinking of doing but by putting the garage CU in the cupboard off the garage that cupboard is inside the house airtightness layer and so any connections to the garage would need to penetrate the layer. so I guess it kind of defeats the object of having a garage CU outside of the airtight layer! thank you very much for your opinion and ideas. I will speak to the electrician about it next week when he's down but am definitely leaning in the direction you have suggested.

at the moment all I care about is getting the ******* house finished! 😂

ours was done with single-ply membrane

Didn’t even cross my mind. 🤷‍♂️

I bought an inexpensive Titan vacuum from Screwfix. Seems to do the job on our site. Think it was about £40 think it was this one https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb774vac-1300w-16ltr-wet-dry-vacuum-220-240v/826kh £50 now.

The studio is part of the main house so any cables up there will not penetrate the Airtightness layer. The garage is outside the airtight layer but that’ll be a ring for sockets and EV chargers. And a few ceiling lights. So very few penetrations.

thank you @Rob99 @jack and @joth. it all makes a lot more sense now. out of interest (and maybe a question you can't or shouldn't answer!) but if you were in my position would you just run the multiple cables back to the main comms room or go for the sub-station as I've outlined? I'm in two minds! it's probably cheaper to run cables back as I'd have to purchase a network switch and, potentially, extra relays/dimmers/RGBW controllers. but it's a lot more work initially and and having a sub-station might make future expansion easier.

Well, that reading didn’t take long! So a single cat6A cable should do it then. will think some more on the whole sub-station idea and talk to my electrician next week when he’s down.