Thorfun

PH3. googles will be used, and face-mask, and gloves. 🙂

will need to buy an SDS screw bit holder then

we have these too but i wasn't told the other side needed to be sheathed.

tek screws have arrived. what sort of drill do i use for these? i have standard drill with screwdriver, impact driver and SDS drill with a slip clutch.

tbh, the way we live our lives this will be overkill. we mostly put paintings/photos/artwork on the wall and that's not that heavy and even a normal plasterboard rawlplug would hold most of it. any locations where we're going to put shelves i can measure and mark where the studs are on a plan and aim for screwing in to the service cavity battens!

can't answer the calculation question but sounds like you're on similar thought train to us. i just posted a question about the OSB requirement behind plasterboard here and i think i've come to the conclusion that i won't bother in general areas. between rooms where i want better sound insulation, eg between the TV room and my study, it's cheaper to double plasterboard and for areas where heavy things will be hung on walls, e.g. kitchen, basins, i can OSB with 11mm/18mm in those locations only. so our makeup is now proposed to be 50mm Rockwool RWA45 between studs in walls with 12.5mm plasterboard either side and doubled up on room partitions that might need extra sound proofing. 100mm Rockwool RWA45 between the joists with 12.5mm plasterboard on resilient bars. might consider doubling the boards up in certain areas. also thinking of making a false drop ceiling in the TV room so i can isolate the room some more from the bedroom above and fill that void with more sound insulation.

at £19.50+VAT per sheet of 18mm OSB i just can't afford it. was going to put 18mm in the kitchen for units to hang off. all toilets are Geberit wall-hung frames so nothing needed there for the toilets. i guess it's just basins that might need something but can put noggins in the walls for that. TV i'm not worried about as they're pretty light these days and, as we've seen above, there are some good fittings for that sort of thing. looks like i'll not bother with OSB then. should save me a substantial amount of money. it's not like we go around taping walls to see if they're hollow or not and they'll all have 50mm rockwool RWA45 in them anyway!

thanks. definitely given me more to think about and to try and decide if it's worth it. money is really running low and i need to save where i can but i also don't want to not do something that i regret later as it'll be hard to remediate!

what about the argument that I've read many times that a layer of OSB makes the internal walls feel more 'solid'? (there are many discussions on here iirc on the subject and it seems that the majority (again iirc!) are for adding a layer of OSB for rigidity/feel) if that's not the case or simply not really needed in a domestic environment then I can save a lot of money and can simply double plasterboard between rooms that need a bit more sound insulation.

I'm going through this dilemma at the moment. I want to put OSB behind the plasterboard but it's still stupidly expensive and funds are low. also, trying to figure out 9mm or 11mm OSB is hard as I haven't got a clue which would be enough! plus the cost difference over a large number of sheets. then, maybe I should simply double plasterboard instead as a sheet of plasterboard is cheaper than OSB. who'd be a self-builder, hey?

they look amazing! thanks for the link. I'll try and remember them for if/when I need something super strong.

welcome! there are many on here who also find those subjects interesting. enjoy the conversations. 🙂

Welcome and good luck!

Found it

I have vague recollections of a similar question on a thread by @pocster I’ll see if I can find it.

Was thinking of some Rockwool for sound insulation. Again, can’t see that being an issue as you get walls with mineral wool between the studs then VCL then PIR. Also, will be more insulation garage side (at least 100mm PIR) so membrane will still be on ‘warm side’.

ironically my silicone lubricant is made by WD-40. 😆

took a look and didn't fancy any of those cheap cordless staplers. so, me being me, I ordered this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FHLGWZY?psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp for delivery tomorrow. should do the trick! 🙂

we have a hammer tacker and that was great for external membrane on the timber frame. but this is for stapling AVCL which needs to be a bit more accurate that slamming a hammer tacker in the general vicinity of where you want a staple! don't need to do 1000s in a day as this job will (hopefully) be finished soon. but at the moment she has to wait for me to do stapling whereas if I buy a stapler she can use then she can do the work herself!

perfect. thank you. I just happen to have some of that lying around. 🙂

I have an old-ish staple gun that I find ok to use but the wife finds it too hard to use. the trigger requires quite a bit of force. without wanting to buy a load of different staplers to try can anyone recommend a good stapler that has an easy-action 'trigger'?

further reading on the Protect VC Ultra in this document it shows the membrane fitted either way round but with the foil surface facing the airspace. so foil facing the airspace in between the joists is ok. it also says: so, that to me sounds like fitting the membrane to the posi-joists and then insulating on the garage side is actually the correct thing to do! unless I'm completely misreading the information I think my 'yellow-line' plan is correct. anyone got any reason to disagree with that?

a general question to all and, even though I'm tagging @craig as the resident expert on all things windows, any and all opinions welcome as always. as our build has progressed our sliding doors have had dirt/dust/crud build up on the rails/tracks. once cleaned off is there a product we can use to get the lovely smooth action we had when newly installed?

afternoon all. today I started to look at the detailing for the airtightness for the room above our attached garage (I will simply refer to that as the 'studio' for ease of typing) and it's proving difficult to see the wood from the trees. if I knew now when I started this project I would've got the architect to completely change what he designed for the space as it's really hard to maintain airtightness in that space. some details.... the garage is, obviously, outside the airtight layer, but the stairs going up to the studio start in the house but then have a half-landing that is part way in to the garage. here's a couple of drawings to illustrate. in the drawings the green line is the current airtight membrane but the stairs pierce that layer where the landing goes in to the garage (the red circle in the first image). so, I was thinking of putting some AVCL underneath the joists of the garage ceiling and on the garage side of the stairs and landing to join the existing green layer. that way any heat that travels through the stairs will get trapped underneath them and not leak in to the garage. is this ok to put the barrier on the underside of the joists with the insulation on the garage side? in the rest of the house I'm using Intello Plus but I was thinking of using some Protect VC Foil Ultra that I have lying around to save buying more Intello Plus. I presume it's ok to mix and match AVCL? and is there a 'right way round' for the Protect VC Ultra? i.e. does it matter which way the silver side is facing with regards to vapour transfer? I guess that if the silver side is facing upwards away from the insulation and in to the joist void then any heat in there will be reflected back up through the floor to the room? and, one final question, if I put the membrane in the yellow location is it a problem to put some Rockwool between the joists (thinking 100mm) on that side of the VCL to reduce noise transfer? sorry for all the questions. it's probably a bit of a silly question but I want to get this done so I can, hopefully, get an airtightness test completed in a month or so and then I can start boarding! as always, happy to take some in-situ photos if anything doesn't make sense.

brilliant! best of luck with it all