Thorfun

For us we provided the window company (Norrsken) with the opening size the TF company would provide and they built the windows to fit with their standard tolerance subtracted from the opening size. Then the installers turned up and fitted. No one ever asked me to provide a fixing schedule or the like. The fitters just did what they do and made sure the windows were secure with the number of fixings they thought suitable. sounds like a serious case of ‘arse covering’ by your window supplier.

+1. at least that's how we're doing it. they do sell Tescon grommits and stuff to do this but we just foam and put loads of Tescon Vana around it all.

I’m sorry to say but it sounds like your architect and builder are riding the gravy train here! I simply can’t believe the costs involved. If your letter does the trick and you get it built for £500k and it’s valued at £1.3m then you’ll get an offer around £1.25m. Then with estate agent fees and conveyancing and rent paid during the build, interest on any loans etc I can’t see you still walking away with any kind of profit. Even if you did make £50k is it worth it for the time and stress!? I wish you the best of luck with it all and hope you end up finding a team that aren’t taking you for a ride. 😢

clips galore

i'm certainly with you. i used pipe clips at 500mm centres for my hep2o pipes. my chippie friend who came to visit thought it was a little excessive. 😂

it's not really that load bearing so that's probably overkill!

in my mind the piece of wood would hold the screw in place, no? i could clamp the wood to the steel and then screw through the wood and then the screw won't move as it drills through the steel. would that not do the job?

is this not a perfect example of a main contractor route though? the main contractor will pay the chippie £200 per door and add £100 on top for himself and then add another £50 for risk and you end up around the £530 per door he's quoting? that's why a main contractor is going to be a LOT more than project managing the build/renovation yourself and hiring in subbies. you're not paying the 20% overhead on materials and whatever overhead the main contractor feels like adding on for labour and risk. our chippie charges us £250/day in West Sussex. i'm not sure how many doors can be fitted in a day but it's gotta be more than 1 1/4, right?

PH3. googles will be used, and face-mask, and gloves. 🙂

will need to buy an SDS screw bit holder then

we have these too but i wasn't told the other side needed to be sheathed.

tek screws have arrived. what sort of drill do i use for these? i have standard drill with screwdriver, impact driver and SDS drill with a slip clutch.

tbh, the way we live our lives this will be overkill. we mostly put paintings/photos/artwork on the wall and that's not that heavy and even a normal plasterboard rawlplug would hold most of it. any locations where we're going to put shelves i can measure and mark where the studs are on a plan and aim for screwing in to the service cavity battens!

can't answer the calculation question but sounds like you're on similar thought train to us. i just posted a question about the OSB requirement behind plasterboard here and i think i've come to the conclusion that i won't bother in general areas. between rooms where i want better sound insulation, eg between the TV room and my study, it's cheaper to double plasterboard and for areas where heavy things will be hung on walls, e.g. kitchen, basins, i can OSB with 11mm/18mm in those locations only. so our makeup is now proposed to be 50mm Rockwool RWA45 between studs in walls with 12.5mm plasterboard either side and doubled up on room partitions that might need extra sound proofing. 100mm Rockwool RWA45 between the joists with 12.5mm plasterboard on resilient bars. might consider doubling the boards up in certain areas. also thinking of making a false drop ceiling in the TV room so i can isolate the room some more from the bedroom above and fill that void with more sound insulation.

at £19.50+VAT per sheet of 18mm OSB i just can't afford it. was going to put 18mm in the kitchen for units to hang off. all toilets are Geberit wall-hung frames so nothing needed there for the toilets. i guess it's just basins that might need something but can put noggins in the walls for that. TV i'm not worried about as they're pretty light these days and, as we've seen above, there are some good fittings for that sort of thing. looks like i'll not bother with OSB then. should save me a substantial amount of money. it's not like we go around taping walls to see if they're hollow or not and they'll all have 50mm rockwool RWA45 in them anyway!

thanks. definitely given me more to think about and to try and decide if it's worth it. money is really running low and i need to save where i can but i also don't want to not do something that i regret later as it'll be hard to remediate!

what about the argument that I've read many times that a layer of OSB makes the internal walls feel more 'solid'? (there are many discussions on here iirc on the subject and it seems that the majority (again iirc!) are for adding a layer of OSB for rigidity/feel) if that's not the case or simply not really needed in a domestic environment then I can save a lot of money and can simply double plasterboard between rooms that need a bit more sound insulation.

I'm going through this dilemma at the moment. I want to put OSB behind the plasterboard but it's still stupidly expensive and funds are low. also, trying to figure out 9mm or 11mm OSB is hard as I haven't got a clue which would be enough! plus the cost difference over a large number of sheets. then, maybe I should simply double plasterboard instead as a sheet of plasterboard is cheaper than OSB. who'd be a self-builder, hey?

they look amazing! thanks for the link. I'll try and remember them for if/when I need something super strong.

welcome! there are many on here who also find those subjects interesting. enjoy the conversations. 🙂

Welcome and good luck!

Found it

I have vague recollections of a similar question on a thread by @pocster I’ll see if I can find it.

Was thinking of some Rockwool for sound insulation. Again, can’t see that being an issue as you get walls with mineral wool between the studs then VCL then PIR. Also, will be more insulation garage side (at least 100mm PIR) so membrane will still be on ‘warm side’.

ironically my silicone lubricant is made by WD-40. 😆