Thorfun

also today I got the 1-wire extension wired up and my UFH temp probes from the bathrooms connected and the electric UFH and towel radiators are now working nicely. 🙂

while I'm playing around with Loxone Config and my setup I notice that my dimmable mains lights controlled by the Whitewing mains 16ch DMX dimmer dim to about 55% in Loxone app and then go off. what is the reason for this? is it the wrong type of dimmable light bulbs? is this the whole constant current/constant voltage difference that I can't seem to get my head around? or something else?

it worked perfectly when I wired the blind up to a Loxone relay output. I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and buy another relay extension. it's expensive but if it just works it saves me time and hassle which you can't really put a price on, right?

Have you done the calculations to see what benefit getting 0.1W/m2K gives you over, say 0.12W/m2K? I used Jeremy’s spreadsheet to do the calculations and found it made little difference in heat demand and air tightness had a greater effect. So you could be going through a lot more work and expense for not much benefit.

it's a good point. it could the PWM causing the issue. I hadn't considered that. but my test tomorrow of wiring one blind directly to the Loxone relay will let me know if it is the issue. The SSRs have 24V signal on one side and switched 230V on the other. so the DMX 24V dimmer GND output for a channel connect to the 24V side to trigger the SSR.

the quote we got wasn't cheap but you get what you pay for I guess. in the end we decided to just use a standard TF and fitted the insulation ourselves to save money. it took well over a year to do it all and was horrible work. if I was to do another self-build I would get the TF company to install the insulation. I keep thinking that if I'd spent the extra money we'd be living in the house by now enjoying it. and we'd be off our self-build mortgage and I wonder if the extra payments on that have amounted to more than we saved fitting the insulation ourselves? sometimes a saving isn't really a saving when you consider the time and other costs involved. the MBC twin wall system is 300mm thick walls. I thought they were thick when I first started looking at it but our standard TF 140mm walls with 80mm internal insulation means that our walls are only 80mm thinner which is nothing in the grand scheme of things. I don't understand what you have against thick walls though.

the whole journey down the SSR route being triggered via the DMX dimmer was because I didn't want to fork out for another Loxone relay extension which wouldn't even have enough outputs for all my blinds! I have 8 blinds so need 16 relays. I have been on many journeys of discovery during our build and this was another one. some work and some don't but that is the beauty of the journeys.

because @joth said so! 🤣 (obviously a joke and I apportion no blame at all on anyone on this forum who gives advice) how would I control the SSR if not from the DMX 24V dimmer?

damn it! so close. the blinds started to come down and then about 1/3 of the way down they started slowing and then stalled. I checked in the cabinet while a blind was in motion and the light was on the SSR but there was a pop and then a strange smell that seemed to emanate from the DMX 24V Dimmer. so something isn't right. I'm wondering if the constant draw from the blind is too much for a single dimmer channel on the Whitewing? although each channel can take 2A and the spec sheet for the blinds mentions max 1A (https://www.hallmarkblinds.co.uk/_files/ugd/808103_5ac3ca9495a6443894116d7d27e28a9f.pdf) so I'm not sure that is it. I have a spare few channels on the Loxone Relay so I might try plugging a blind in to two of those and seeing if the same problem occurs. at least that'll help me figure out if it's the DMX dimmer or not. 😢

@joth I figured it out! I have working blinds now. I found this post https://groups.google.com/g/loxone-english/c/jpVNFGtFwEA/m/UIjNxTd7AAAJ which led me to set the Value 2 correction so that a value of 1 = 100 and things are working now. need to time the full open/full closed so I can update those values and then I can see about automating them with the intelligent room controller.

so I'm definitely thinking it's a Loxone config issue as if I switch the DMX 24V dimmer to test mode I can see lights coming on on the SSRs as each channel is triggered and I can hear brief noises from the blind motors. so the power is getting to the blinds. then that leads me to conclude that it must be the control of the trigger, right? so must be my loxone config? here's one example and the DMX actuators anyone have any clues please? really need to get the blinds working today.

morning @joth. I am in need of your assistance! I can't seem to get the blinds to work using the SSRs. I know the WW 24V DMX Dimmer is working as I have a 24V spot wired up to it and that turns on and off within Loxone. so I can only think I've wired them up wrong or the DMX Actuator in Config is different to when using for a light. are you able to shed any light on the subject please? I've tried smart and standard DMX actuators in Config and no difference.

indeed and although our posts were an hour apart they were crossed posts! I was out working on the problem with this thread open and I came back and updated it without refreshing so didn't see your post. I really appreciate your input and if I'd simply pressed refresh a lot sooner it would've saved me a lot of time! 🤣

I finally got the DMX mains dimmer to work. it seems that I hadn't pushed the "dmx out" connector in properly on the 24V DMX Dimmer. 🤦‍♂️ anyway, mains voltage dimming by DMX is now working! 🥳 next issue is getting the SSRs to be triggered by the 24V DMX dimmer but it's getting late and I'll leave that for tomorrow. but progress is good. wasn't anything I was doing wrong. the lux levels were too high and so the lights weren't coming on. another 🤦‍♂️ moment. as it's gotten darker the lights come on automatically now when I enter a room. this stuff is so cool.

btw, my sparky was standing next to me today as we worked on the cabinet and I talked to him about the Gnd- terminals and running multiple cables and he said why don't you just run 4 x Gnds as they'll all fit in the WW. so I did, as you might be able to see from the photo. so thanks again for the information, it really helped.

so, I have a powered up Loxone cabinet! I can't say it's fully working yet as I can't get the DMX stuff to work. not sure what I'm doing wrong tbh but I'll take a look at it and try and figure it out. I also need to look at automating the lights as I've put a presence sensor in to each room but when I walk in nothing happens when I would've thought the lights should come on and when I test within config it shows the lights circuits being switched on but it doesn't work in real life. again, just need to look in to it as it's probably something I'm doing wrong. but, for now, we have lights being switched on by the switches (Touch tree and retractive) and so things are definitely moving along! here's my cabinet now wired up to the consumer unit.

fabulous! thank you so much. and you also made it idiot proof which is what I need. 🙂

thanks Mike. definitely not commoning the positives. one 24V+ to each 'set' of terminal blocks. thanks also for the GND information. in conjunction with @joth's answers I think I understand. I'll probably do what @joth did and take multiple grounds from the PSUB to the WW DMX Dimmer input.

+1 for Harvey George. SWMBO found them and they were very helpful and great quality. it was expensive but when we added up 2 basins, a separate cupboard, worktop, splash back, taps, waste etc it was actually very similar to buying it all separately!

I am in need of assistance again. I'm sure we've gone over this before and I will trawl through the thread to see but in case anyone is on and can answer this then please do. I am confused once again as to how to wire up for the 24V LEDs. here's how I've wired up the WW DMX Dimmer and triple-deck Wagos (ignore the red cable going in to the Wago and the WW DMX Dimmer for now). I have a Loxone Power Supply and Backup and so a single channel isn't enough to drive all those devices on the WW so I can't simply power the WW from the PSUB. my original plan was to use the PSUB outputs 3 - 7 for the 24V lights with one output per 'section' of terminal blocks that you can see separated by the orange end plates. so, PSUB output 3 to TB1, PSUB4 to TB8, PSUB5 to TB14 etc and then to jumper the 24V+ across the TBs in the section. and you can see that I have the jumper bars already installed to do this. this, I get! but I'm once again having a special moment as to what to do with the GND- from the PSUB outputs? the confusion I have is that some LEDs are just 24V+ & GND- but I also have CCT LED strips and RGBW strips and so some of the triple deck terminal blocks have a GND connected from the WW on the bottom tier. can someone please tell me in a way that an idiot can understand what I do with the GND- from the PSU? I will do some research and reading while I wait and see if anyone can help and I'm sorry once again for my confusion here. I thought I had everything under control until I came to try and connect the PSUB up today! 😢

that is exactly how I've done mine too! 🙂 can't wait until tomorrow when the sparky connects the cabinet to the CU.

got a DMX RGBW actuator hooked up on config now too. slowly getting there! can't wait for the sparky to come on Thursday and wire the cabinet to the CU so I can actually control some real lights!

Fuse replaced and retractive switch tested and working! 😊🥳

ultimately though a small delay won't bother me as I'm hoping that we'll never need these switches as the presence sensors should deal with the lights as we walk in to the rooms.

cool. I'm waiting a replacement 2A fuse to arrive before I can test it as I did stupid stuff yesterday and blew a fuse. at least I know they work.