Thorfun

I wonder if it's possible to turn off the RGB component of RGBW lights in Loxone config in the case of a power cut? that will reduce the potential power usage substantially!

lots of RGBW LED strips tbh. probably won't have all of them on at the same time but I've calculated the max current to ensure that I stay within the max of the power supply. Also have quite a few normal LED strips around the place as accent lights. in a power cut our mains lights won't be working so the LED strips will be the main lighting. although I am thinking about asking the electrician to see if we can get the mains lights (3 x Loxone relays and 1 x WW mains dimmer) powered off the batteries but that will mean 2 x feeds in to the Loxone cabinet from different consumer units and it'll start getting really complicated!

so you're going for Passive House certification? if not then you don't need to do what PHPP says! like you say you might need to do some value engineering to reduce costs in which case lowering your target U-value would be a good way to make savings as it definitely has diminishing returns when adding insulation past a certain point. Also, for me I wanted the AVCL on the inside of all the insulation. I know you're allowed to have insulation inside the AVCL it but it just didn't seem right to me. but there are many ways to build. best of luck. fabric first is definitely the way to go!

greetings. looking for batteries for backup to my 24V Loxone stuff via the power supply and backup. I need 3 x 12V batteries and I'm thinking AGM batteries are the way to go as this website seems to suggest they're more efficient and according to the Loxone knowledge base they say All my 24V lights running at the same time would be around 40A or 960W. so let's assume that I have 3 x 15Ah batteries that would mean I could only run the 24V lights for only 2hrs max! doesn't seem like a long time. so, therefore, I need bigger capacity batteries, right? but then the cost starts increasing dramatically! if I look at Tanya.co.uk a 45Ah battery is about £175. so 3 of those is just over £500. but that would give me 135Ah of backup which would run the lights for 5hrs. which doesn't seem a lot either! has anyone out there who has a power supply & backup connected 36V batteries and, if so, which did you go for? (note. if my maths above is wrong please feel free to correct me! I think you know by now that maths/physics/electrics are not my strong point)

I love the way you think I know what I'm doing! you've obviously not read all the thread. 🤣 I presume you're talking about the terminal blocks? they are used to terminate the twin and earth cables from the light fittings in the cabinet on the 'external' side and then the 'internal' side is wired to the relay/dimmer/whatever that is switched by Loxone. does that make sense?

sounds complicated! 🤣. I will stick with mains dimming and, as you say, have different lights on for different light level requirements. our lighting has been designed around that anyway so shouldn't be too hard.

Thanks. So at least it’s not something I’m doing wrong or that i can do anything about! I’ll not worry anymore about it and move on to other matters.

they are pretty cheap from Loxone IF you want to buy 20 of them! most self-installers won't need that many so it doesn't make sense to buy in bulk. I did a lot of research and here's my results on prices from different places for all my terminal blocks. our @Pocster is a special thing but he's only allowed out at the weekends. so please don't encourage him.

also today I got the 1-wire extension wired up and my UFH temp probes from the bathrooms connected and the electric UFH and towel radiators are now working nicely. 🙂

while I'm playing around with Loxone Config and my setup I notice that my dimmable mains lights controlled by the Whitewing mains 16ch DMX dimmer dim to about 55% in Loxone app and then go off. what is the reason for this? is it the wrong type of dimmable light bulbs? is this the whole constant current/constant voltage difference that I can't seem to get my head around? or something else?

it worked perfectly when I wired the blind up to a Loxone relay output. I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and buy another relay extension. it's expensive but if it just works it saves me time and hassle which you can't really put a price on, right?

Have you done the calculations to see what benefit getting 0.1W/m2K gives you over, say 0.12W/m2K? I used Jeremy’s spreadsheet to do the calculations and found it made little difference in heat demand and air tightness had a greater effect. So you could be going through a lot more work and expense for not much benefit.

it's a good point. it could the PWM causing the issue. I hadn't considered that. but my test tomorrow of wiring one blind directly to the Loxone relay will let me know if it is the issue. The SSRs have 24V signal on one side and switched 230V on the other. so the DMX 24V dimmer GND output for a channel connect to the 24V side to trigger the SSR.

the quote we got wasn't cheap but you get what you pay for I guess. in the end we decided to just use a standard TF and fitted the insulation ourselves to save money. it took well over a year to do it all and was horrible work. if I was to do another self-build I would get the TF company to install the insulation. I keep thinking that if I'd spent the extra money we'd be living in the house by now enjoying it. and we'd be off our self-build mortgage and I wonder if the extra payments on that have amounted to more than we saved fitting the insulation ourselves? sometimes a saving isn't really a saving when you consider the time and other costs involved. the MBC twin wall system is 300mm thick walls. I thought they were thick when I first started looking at it but our standard TF 140mm walls with 80mm internal insulation means that our walls are only 80mm thinner which is nothing in the grand scheme of things. I don't understand what you have against thick walls though.

the whole journey down the SSR route being triggered via the DMX dimmer was because I didn't want to fork out for another Loxone relay extension which wouldn't even have enough outputs for all my blinds! I have 8 blinds so need 16 relays. I have been on many journeys of discovery during our build and this was another one. some work and some don't but that is the beauty of the journeys.

because @joth said so! 🤣 (obviously a joke and I apportion no blame at all on anyone on this forum who gives advice) how would I control the SSR if not from the DMX 24V dimmer?

damn it! so close. the blinds started to come down and then about 1/3 of the way down they started slowing and then stalled. I checked in the cabinet while a blind was in motion and the light was on the SSR but there was a pop and then a strange smell that seemed to emanate from the DMX 24V Dimmer. so something isn't right. I'm wondering if the constant draw from the blind is too much for a single dimmer channel on the Whitewing? although each channel can take 2A and the spec sheet for the blinds mentions max 1A (https://www.hallmarkblinds.co.uk/_files/ugd/808103_5ac3ca9495a6443894116d7d27e28a9f.pdf) so I'm not sure that is it. I have a spare few channels on the Loxone Relay so I might try plugging a blind in to two of those and seeing if the same problem occurs. at least that'll help me figure out if it's the DMX dimmer or not. 😢

@joth I figured it out! I have working blinds now. I found this post https://groups.google.com/g/loxone-english/c/jpVNFGtFwEA/m/UIjNxTd7AAAJ which led me to set the Value 2 correction so that a value of 1 = 100 and things are working now. need to time the full open/full closed so I can update those values and then I can see about automating them with the intelligent room controller.

so I'm definitely thinking it's a Loxone config issue as if I switch the DMX 24V dimmer to test mode I can see lights coming on on the SSRs as each channel is triggered and I can hear brief noises from the blind motors. so the power is getting to the blinds. then that leads me to conclude that it must be the control of the trigger, right? so must be my loxone config? here's one example and the DMX actuators anyone have any clues please? really need to get the blinds working today.

morning @joth. I am in need of your assistance! I can't seem to get the blinds to work using the SSRs. I know the WW 24V DMX Dimmer is working as I have a 24V spot wired up to it and that turns on and off within Loxone. so I can only think I've wired them up wrong or the DMX Actuator in Config is different to when using for a light. are you able to shed any light on the subject please? I've tried smart and standard DMX actuators in Config and no difference.

indeed and although our posts were an hour apart they were crossed posts! I was out working on the problem with this thread open and I came back and updated it without refreshing so didn't see your post. I really appreciate your input and if I'd simply pressed refresh a lot sooner it would've saved me a lot of time! 🤣

I finally got the DMX mains dimmer to work. it seems that I hadn't pushed the "dmx out" connector in properly on the 24V DMX Dimmer. 🤦‍♂️ anyway, mains voltage dimming by DMX is now working! 🥳 next issue is getting the SSRs to be triggered by the 24V DMX dimmer but it's getting late and I'll leave that for tomorrow. but progress is good. wasn't anything I was doing wrong. the lux levels were too high and so the lights weren't coming on. another 🤦‍♂️ moment. as it's gotten darker the lights come on automatically now when I enter a room. this stuff is so cool.

btw, my sparky was standing next to me today as we worked on the cabinet and I talked to him about the Gnd- terminals and running multiple cables and he said why don't you just run 4 x Gnds as they'll all fit in the WW. so I did, as you might be able to see from the photo. so thanks again for the information, it really helped.

so, I have a powered up Loxone cabinet! I can't say it's fully working yet as I can't get the DMX stuff to work. not sure what I'm doing wrong tbh but I'll take a look at it and try and figure it out. I also need to look at automating the lights as I've put a presence sensor in to each room but when I walk in nothing happens when I would've thought the lights should come on and when I test within config it shows the lights circuits being switched on but it doesn't work in real life. again, just need to look in to it as it's probably something I'm doing wrong. but, for now, we have lights being switched on by the switches (Touch tree and retractive) and so things are definitely moving along! here's my cabinet now wired up to the consumer unit.

fabulous! thank you so much. and you also made it idiot proof which is what I need. 🙂