Thorfun

put the new Loxone relay extension in and connected up the blinds to it and they just work. it was a good experiment trying the SSRs and I still have them if I want to use cheap relays for something else (maybe the wet UFH control when I get that set up?). cabinet is almost ready to put the covers on as there's not many more lighting circuits I can connect up at the moment. making a final push for BCO sign off in the next couple of months so need to make it all safe and get the electrics signed off.

I asked my BCO this very question this week. He said about 14 days from final inspection if all the paperwork was in order

Like anyone would admit that!

Afaik you can use whatever you want to use! I used the one you posted as I terminated every T&E on the side with 3 levels as the earths all commoned on the din rail. @Rob99 uses double decker TB for L & N and terminates the earths on a connection bar. Horses for courses from my perspective. my sparks was happy with the way I’d done it. there are only 2 levels on the “internal” side as there’s no earth from the relays so it’s just the switched live and commoned neutral from the RCBO

Doesn’t split in to type of primary fire though. But on the positive side the number of domestic primary fires have decreased by 20% over the last 10 years while we can presume the number of batteries installed has increased over that period.

this would indeed be very interesting to know

mine too

i have mains battery backup too. currently 6.4kWh capacity but it is easily expandable by simply adding another battery or two (or three, or four)

Loxone miniserver and extensions are minimal so i'm not even going to factor those in. for the PSUB you need 3 x 12V batteries as it's a 36V battery backup system. so it's all or nothing on that front. i'm sure i can reduce the power draw for each LED strip in certain circumstances within Loxone config but i haven't got that far in to my learnings yet. maybe i do simply start with a low cost 45Ah setup and can then reasses if/when i ever need to! i'm in no rush for the batteries as we're not even living there yet but i like to start my research early so i can forget what i've researched a few months down the line when i'm ready to purchase so i have to research it all over again. 🤦‍♂️ so plenty of time to fit the LEDs and see how they perform dimmed at night. i can then measure the power draw through Loxone as the PSUB should give those readings.

yeah. it is the wise thing. it's interesting that no one on here that has the power supply and backup is utilising the backup facility! although i know @joth has one but he's living it up and is slow to respond at the moment.

yes of course. but we'd like to illuminate 'luxuriously' during a power cut rather than just bare minimum. 😉 i have a Whitewing DMX 24V dimmer that controls the 24V lighting. we don't have power cuts often (although we had one just last week for about 3hrs) but often enough that i want to plan for them. i also need to plan for the zombie apocalypse when it finally hits.

Very good point well made. 👍

+1 but i would say that goes for any build method. our TF company built us a great structure and then went bust a year later and some on here also lost money. so you can never be 100% certain of a company. there have been a few threads about this on here and i'm sure quick search will yield some results.

that would definitely work and is a great idea but with the one slight snag that i haven't fitted any of those LED strips yet! 😉 i was hoping to start fitting those this weekend if i get time after doing some plumbing work. but it is a great idea and i can put off buying these batteries until after i have that data.

That is definitely the sensible thing to do. I was just thinking of a worse case scenario and planning for it. But maybe 45Ah will be enough for emergency battery backup for the 24V lights. It’s definitely a cheaper option to try to start with! Although even with only 1/3 of the lights running that’s only 6hrs illumination. Enough to get us to bedtime in the winter though I guess.

here's my spreadsheet of all my 24V LEDs/LED Strips. the last column is the current each will draw at full power and the total in bold on each output of the PSUB.

it was set to 70s and I didn't change that value when I did the test with the Loxone relay so I don't think it was that. tbh, I'm not sure what it is but I've decided to ditch the SSRs and move to a Loxone relay. it just worked and I'm ok with having an easy life where things just work. sorry to give up on them but you win some and you lose some. I'll put it on the credit card and figure out how to pay for it in a month or two. 😆 fair enough! enjoy. 🙂

I wonder if it's possible to turn off the RGB component of RGBW lights in Loxone config in the case of a power cut? that will reduce the potential power usage substantially!

lots of RGBW LED strips tbh. probably won't have all of them on at the same time but I've calculated the max current to ensure that I stay within the max of the power supply. Also have quite a few normal LED strips around the place as accent lights. in a power cut our mains lights won't be working so the LED strips will be the main lighting. although I am thinking about asking the electrician to see if we can get the mains lights (3 x Loxone relays and 1 x WW mains dimmer) powered off the batteries but that will mean 2 x feeds in to the Loxone cabinet from different consumer units and it'll start getting really complicated!

so you're going for Passive House certification? if not then you don't need to do what PHPP says! like you say you might need to do some value engineering to reduce costs in which case lowering your target U-value would be a good way to make savings as it definitely has diminishing returns when adding insulation past a certain point. Also, for me I wanted the AVCL on the inside of all the insulation. I know you're allowed to have insulation inside the AVCL it but it just didn't seem right to me. but there are many ways to build. best of luck. fabric first is definitely the way to go!

greetings. looking for batteries for backup to my 24V Loxone stuff via the power supply and backup. I need 3 x 12V batteries and I'm thinking AGM batteries are the way to go as this website seems to suggest they're more efficient and according to the Loxone knowledge base they say All my 24V lights running at the same time would be around 40A or 960W. so let's assume that I have 3 x 15Ah batteries that would mean I could only run the 24V lights for only 2hrs max! doesn't seem like a long time. so, therefore, I need bigger capacity batteries, right? but then the cost starts increasing dramatically! if I look at Tanya.co.uk a 45Ah battery is about £175. so 3 of those is just over £500. but that would give me 135Ah of backup which would run the lights for 5hrs. which doesn't seem a lot either! has anyone out there who has a power supply & backup connected 36V batteries and, if so, which did you go for? (note. if my maths above is wrong please feel free to correct me! I think you know by now that maths/physics/electrics are not my strong point)

I love the way you think I know what I'm doing! you've obviously not read all the thread. 🤣 I presume you're talking about the terminal blocks? they are used to terminate the twin and earth cables from the light fittings in the cabinet on the 'external' side and then the 'internal' side is wired to the relay/dimmer/whatever that is switched by Loxone. does that make sense?

sounds complicated! 🤣. I will stick with mains dimming and, as you say, have different lights on for different light level requirements. our lighting has been designed around that anyway so shouldn't be too hard.

Thanks. So at least it’s not something I’m doing wrong or that i can do anything about! I’ll not worry anymore about it and move on to other matters.

they are pretty cheap from Loxone IF you want to buy 20 of them! most self-installers won't need that many so it doesn't make sense to buy in bulk. I did a lot of research and here's my results on prices from different places for all my terminal blocks. our @Pocster is a special thing but he's only allowed out at the weekends. so please don't encourage him.