Thorfun

thanks Mike. definitely not commoning the positives. one 24V+ to each 'set' of terminal blocks. thanks also for the GND information. in conjunction with @joth's answers I think I understand. I'll probably do what @joth did and take multiple grounds from the PSUB to the WW DMX Dimmer input.

+1 for Harvey George. SWMBO found them and they were very helpful and great quality. it was expensive but when we added up 2 basins, a separate cupboard, worktop, splash back, taps, waste etc it was actually very similar to buying it all separately!

I am in need of assistance again. I'm sure we've gone over this before and I will trawl through the thread to see but in case anyone is on and can answer this then please do. I am confused once again as to how to wire up for the 24V LEDs. here's how I've wired up the WW DMX Dimmer and triple-deck Wagos (ignore the red cable going in to the Wago and the WW DMX Dimmer for now). I have a Loxone Power Supply and Backup and so a single channel isn't enough to drive all those devices on the WW so I can't simply power the WW from the PSUB. my original plan was to use the PSUB outputs 3 - 7 for the 24V lights with one output per 'section' of terminal blocks that you can see separated by the orange end plates. so, PSUB output 3 to TB1, PSUB4 to TB8, PSUB5 to TB14 etc and then to jumper the 24V+ across the TBs in the section. and you can see that I have the jumper bars already installed to do this. this, I get! but I'm once again having a special moment as to what to do with the GND- from the PSUB outputs? the confusion I have is that some LEDs are just 24V+ & GND- but I also have CCT LED strips and RGBW strips and so some of the triple deck terminal blocks have a GND connected from the WW on the bottom tier. can someone please tell me in a way that an idiot can understand what I do with the GND- from the PSU? I will do some research and reading while I wait and see if anyone can help and I'm sorry once again for my confusion here. I thought I had everything under control until I came to try and connect the PSUB up today! 😢

that is exactly how I've done mine too! 🙂 can't wait until tomorrow when the sparky connects the cabinet to the CU.

got a DMX RGBW actuator hooked up on config now too. slowly getting there! can't wait for the sparky to come on Thursday and wire the cabinet to the CU so I can actually control some real lights!

Fuse replaced and retractive switch tested and working! 😊🥳

ultimately though a small delay won't bother me as I'm hoping that we'll never need these switches as the presence sensors should deal with the lights as we walk in to the rooms.

cool. I'm waiting a replacement 2A fuse to arrive before I can test it as I did stupid stuff yesterday and blew a fuse. at least I know they work.

Does this affect zero rating VAT at all? If using part of an existing structure?

🤦‍♂️ need to learn to read.

it's what the OP wanted! 🤷‍♂️shrug

We went this approach. ASHP for ground floor UFH and A2A for first floor and cooling throughout. Despite having external shading I was worried about overheating and so fitted AC which can be used for supplemental heating if required. Could give @CalvinHobbes the “instant heat” you’re after while also being useful in the years to come.

Ok. So after much deliberation I think I’ve got it. I take a 24V feed up to the retractive switch common connector and then from the L1 connector a wire to the digital input. I’ll try it tomorrow and see what happens!

Found this https://www.loxone.com/enen/kb/setting-up-dmx-devices/ so will have a go tomorrow. 🤞

hey @Dan F. qq on the retractive switches please. how the **** do I wire these things up!? 🤣 I bought these (https://www.retrotouch.co.uk/crystal-pulse-retractive-switches/crystal-pg-retractivepulse-light-switch-1-gang-white.html) and the connectors at the back look like they're for mains voltage but they say that they can be used with Loxone. I'm guessing the wire that goes to my digital input on the Miniserver (I'm using the brown twisted pair cable for these retractive switches) needs to go in to one of these connections but I'm not smart enough to work out which. you also mentioned the 24V for these. where does that connect to the switch?

today I connected up my Whitewing DMX RGB dimmer to the DMX extension but in Loxone config when I do a DMX device search it doesn't find anything. should I be seeing something in config?

lol. I didn't even know that was a thing! I've already manually created the rooms and chucked a lighting controller in each one and have started adding the tree devices as I plug each cat6 in to the cabinet. Also already assigned each relay output to a lighting circuit as per my spreadsheet. It seems that doing things the hard way is what I do! 🤣

greetings. I'm having a play with Loxone Config and I was wondering how you all laid your blocks out within it. do you create a page per room and have all lighting/heating/blinds etc for the one room on that page? or do you have all, say, GF lighting on one page, FF lighting on another page, GF heating on it's own page etc? there are, obviously, many ways to skin a cat but if you've found an efficient way of arranging your content then I'd be interested to know so I'm not reinventing the wheel or having to redo it later when I realise the way I've done it sucks!

we used Stairbox for that cheap temp staircases. sadly funds are so scarce now we're near the end that i think the temp staircase will be painted and kept for a while until we can afford the final one.

i did indeed. on walls and roofs. tips? it's a pain to do especially on attic trusses (i can only imagine how much worse it would be on standard roof trusses!). hopefully the OP won't have this issue with room in roof though as the roof probably isn't built using attic trusses. we fully filled the walls/trusses with glass wool (horrible stuff) and then screwed PIR (80mm on walls and 100mm on roofs) in to the TF and roof. we then put AVCL membrane over the PIR. we used double sided tape to hold it in place until the service cavity battens were fitted and they held the membrane nicely. i wish we'd done blown in cellulose. glass wool was horrible. it's great that the installer will core through the PIR to fill the roof. good luck. sounds like a great roof buildup.

This is who we used https://www.eslightingdesign.co.uk

for a property that size you might find that a good lighting designer is not as expensive as you think.

NSFW more like! 😂

maybe the German version but use your browser's translate function might make it work better? i haven't used them for a while but i can't see how they'd suddenly turn in to a dodgy company when so many on here have favourable experiences with them. 🤷‍♂️

if you put stuff in your basket and go to checkout does it not list the delivery charge there? my stuff came DPD iirc.