Thorfun

slight change of plan here. I now would like to widen the gap between my 2 outlets on the roof. so I have bought 4 x 90° offset bends and some 68mm pipe and am planning on doing the following: so a 90° bend in to the existing pipe then a length of 68mm pipe to the side at a suitable fall and then another 90° bend at the end to bring it out through the cladding. anyone see any issues with this? will be connecting the offset bends with CT1. I assume a bead of CT1 around the pipe and slide it in? or is there a better way of doing it? Also, what sort of fall should I be looking at?

thanks. I think I have a lot more reading to do before I can fully get my head around all of this. I'm thinking that maybe I should just pay the lighting designer to do it and get her to talk to the electrician! it's not like I haven't got a lot of other things to do.

qq....do the drivers sit in the ceiling void with the light fittings or are they centralised in the Loxone cabinet

our mains water pipe runs at about 450mm for a short distance and I was asked by Southern Water to insulate the 32mm pipe. I ended up using this https://www.bes.co.uk/shalloduct-water-service-pipe-insulation-835-x-25mm-18496/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0umSBhDrARIsAH7FCofPjZE97Kx-4mMkVt_XlLonwlnjcnnNwOdcUPzvCi3Hia-Kj6K4GNcaAsfpEALw_wcB inside a blue ducting pipe https://www.bes.co.uk/shalloduct-rigiduct-insulation-pipe-blue-4-x-3m-18515/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0umSBhDrARIsAH7FCofHqPbJ8g0a1CYXl9oau7cmHLaitE7Z2nweE57W5fsHLg6M2PsHocwaAlcKEALw_wcB which they were happy with.

thanks for the link. I'll add it to my bookmarks. we said we didn't want this done as we don't really have the money but it's always an option when we get nearer the time to get her to do it for us. we'll see how the budget goes. thanks. it's beginning to make sense.

they've got one in stock in Brighton. might be worth a trip to see if it'll work. but I'll try my local plumbers merchants first to see if they've got anything suitable.

welcome. another first time self-builder here. our build is watertight stage and I have learnt so much on our journey so far from being hands on and also from this wonderful forum. you can and should spend hours reading the forums and enjoy your journey down the rabbit hole!

don't know how much the Thermalite blocks are but would've thought a lot more than solid concrete blocks. so save the money and use solid concrete and put the money towards more insulation on the floor.

Or maybe this? https://www.eurocell.co.uk/guttering/guttering/cast-iron-effect-guttering/downpipe-and-fittings/elegance-68mm-downpipe-offset-bend-75mm-long-black?&infinity=ict2~net~gaw~ar~538733368687~kw~~mt~~cmp~UK_EN_Eurocell_Generic_Shopping_Smart_Roofline~ag~Ad+group&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjN-SBhCkARIsACsrBz5RTA6dv4H23gjuWyU0d0mMvwT-p86PFYp9GAbiuNNB_CX1A0GwcJ8aAuItEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds pre-made. More expensive but at only 75mm long fits in to the cavity I have.

Found these 20° offset bend sockets. https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/marley-circular-plastic-downpipe-offset-bend-socket.html will they work? What’s the difference between an offset bend and a normal bend?

Got plenty of CT1

Nice find. Probably better than 2 x 92.5° bends.

next issue I need to sort out is that the drainage outlet from our flat roof needs to bend down to be able to come out below the trim, otherwise I'd need to cut the trim (which I'd rather not do). so I need to S-bend it to bring it below the trim so that it can, eventually, come out of the timber cladding and in to a hopper or other drainage solution that is yet to be decided. the pipe current sticks out 50mm from the wall and I have 70mm to play with before the trim and it needs to drop 30mm to be able to come out from under the trim. I've found 68mm 92.5° round offset bends (https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-92-5-round-offset-bend-black-68mm/53298). would it work to connect two of those together to get out below the trim? I was hoping for more of a 30° swan neck type of affair but that doesn't seem to exist and I can't find anything with such small angle to fashion my own. so I'm looking for assistance and potential solutions to this please.

got this is an email shot from Toolden. might interest the black and yellow brigade of which @pocster is the leader

probably doesn't help as you can't get hold of it but we were lucky and got our Siberian Larch just before the war kicked off. Chippies started putting it up this week and it looks fabulous. got an amazing price for it from Jewsons. saved thousands over Silva/Russwood etc.

it's pretty cool. but I still think I'll get a shot fire gun for when I need to attach more timber to steel. 🙂

I’ve no idea as yet!! That decision is a long way away.

I used Dialux to design the lighting, then we took it to a lighting designer who designed something much better! 😉 I'd used way too many lights trying to allow for every eventuality in a room but it just wasn't necessary. anyway, I've put the lighting designer's plans in to Dialux and I'm using it to just give an idea of how the lighting will look rather than to choose specific products. I've gone in to it with the theory that I can find a light fitting to do what I want once it's all been designed so I just pick random fittings from within Dialux that gives the sort of light I want rather than the exact look of the fitting, e.g. 2.5W 30° led downlight, random table light @ 2800K colour temp (don't care what it looks like!) etc.

maybe search nationally? if it's a specialised field then companies would probably travel.

I didn't read the report in full but scanned the contents and I couldn't see anywhere about using 1 layer of OSB/ply and then one layer of plasterboard. I have a couple of builder friends who both board the walls with OSB or ply first before adding the layer of plasterboard on top. they say that this gives the wall a really solid feel. how would that makeup compare to 2 sheets of plasterboard I wonder?

are you going to be installing the mineral/glass wool and PIR yourself? if so, then seriously consider not doing it! it's not a nice job and took me ages to do just the glass wool and I still need to do the 100mm PIR. if I could go back in time, I'd add battens to below the rafters and pay for cellulose! just my 2 cents.

ahhh...man. you're quite convincing in your argument here and you might be winning in getting me to spend money!

every time I pop in to SF I see this deal and am tempted but seeing as the majority of my tools are Erbauer I can't justify moving to another ecosystem! it is a darn good deal though.

10.5kWp. when we're done it will eventually all be on a single phase running the house with excess going to some form of battery storage for use overnight. at least that's the plan!

thanks. so far so good! can't wait for it to be finished though.