Thorfun

Or maybe this? https://www.eurocell.co.uk/guttering/guttering/cast-iron-effect-guttering/downpipe-and-fittings/elegance-68mm-downpipe-offset-bend-75mm-long-black?&infinity=ict2~net~gaw~ar~538733368687~kw~~mt~~cmp~UK_EN_Eurocell_Generic_Shopping_Smart_Roofline~ag~Ad+group&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjN-SBhCkARIsACsrBz5RTA6dv4H23gjuWyU0d0mMvwT-p86PFYp9GAbiuNNB_CX1A0GwcJ8aAuItEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds pre-made. More expensive but at only 75mm long fits in to the cavity I have.

Found these 20° offset bend sockets. https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/marley-circular-plastic-downpipe-offset-bend-socket.html will they work? What’s the difference between an offset bend and a normal bend?

Got plenty of CT1

Nice find. Probably better than 2 x 92.5° bends.

next issue I need to sort out is that the drainage outlet from our flat roof needs to bend down to be able to come out below the trim, otherwise I'd need to cut the trim (which I'd rather not do). so I need to S-bend it to bring it below the trim so that it can, eventually, come out of the timber cladding and in to a hopper or other drainage solution that is yet to be decided. the pipe current sticks out 50mm from the wall and I have 70mm to play with before the trim and it needs to drop 30mm to be able to come out from under the trim. I've found 68mm 92.5° round offset bends (https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-92-5-round-offset-bend-black-68mm/53298). would it work to connect two of those together to get out below the trim? I was hoping for more of a 30° swan neck type of affair but that doesn't seem to exist and I can't find anything with such small angle to fashion my own. so I'm looking for assistance and potential solutions to this please.

got this is an email shot from Toolden. might interest the black and yellow brigade of which @pocster is the leader

probably doesn't help as you can't get hold of it but we were lucky and got our Siberian Larch just before the war kicked off. Chippies started putting it up this week and it looks fabulous. got an amazing price for it from Jewsons. saved thousands over Silva/Russwood etc.

it's pretty cool. but I still think I'll get a shot fire gun for when I need to attach more timber to steel. 🙂

I’ve no idea as yet!! That decision is a long way away.

I used Dialux to design the lighting, then we took it to a lighting designer who designed something much better! 😉 I'd used way too many lights trying to allow for every eventuality in a room but it just wasn't necessary. anyway, I've put the lighting designer's plans in to Dialux and I'm using it to just give an idea of how the lighting will look rather than to choose specific products. I've gone in to it with the theory that I can find a light fitting to do what I want once it's all been designed so I just pick random fittings from within Dialux that gives the sort of light I want rather than the exact look of the fitting, e.g. 2.5W 30° led downlight, random table light @ 2800K colour temp (don't care what it looks like!) etc.

maybe search nationally? if it's a specialised field then companies would probably travel.

I didn't read the report in full but scanned the contents and I couldn't see anywhere about using 1 layer of OSB/ply and then one layer of plasterboard. I have a couple of builder friends who both board the walls with OSB or ply first before adding the layer of plasterboard on top. they say that this gives the wall a really solid feel. how would that makeup compare to 2 sheets of plasterboard I wonder?

are you going to be installing the mineral/glass wool and PIR yourself? if so, then seriously consider not doing it! it's not a nice job and took me ages to do just the glass wool and I still need to do the 100mm PIR. if I could go back in time, I'd add battens to below the rafters and pay for cellulose! just my 2 cents.

ahhh...man. you're quite convincing in your argument here and you might be winning in getting me to spend money!

every time I pop in to SF I see this deal and am tempted but seeing as the majority of my tools are Erbauer I can't justify moving to another ecosystem! it is a darn good deal though.

10.5kWp. when we're done it will eventually all be on a single phase running the house with excess going to some form of battery storage for use overnight. at least that's the plan!

thanks. so far so good! can't wait for it to be finished though.

https://www.britishgoatsociety.com/about-us/breeds/pygmy/ but they're so cute (and yes, I am kidding)

yes, agreed. and in this instance they should be. we're very happy with what the lighting designer has designed. she did say that she can help with the sourcing/control/install etc but as that will cost us more money we're fine with figuring this out on our own (and with the help of this wonderful forum 😇)

right. ok. so I think I'm starting to get a handle on this. so, IF I don't want to dim those LEDs I would simply have an LED driver suitable to run the 12 x uplighters and that will plug in to the Loxone Relay extension? https://shop.loxone.com/enuk/relay-extension.html

yeah, thinking somewhere between 1W - 2.5W for this application. why is the Whitewing dimmer not appropriate?

the wildflowers have started to bloom

thanks. good info. I've not bought any LEDs yet. not even run a single cable yet! just trying to plan ahead as I know it's all going to hit the fan at the same time and I want to make sure I'm a little bit prepared for it all.

thanks Jack. I do get a bit lost with all of the electrical stuff and I do have a good sparky but just haven't given him the plans for lighting and sockets yet. in the area shown above they will be pretty low wattage lights. in fact, our lighting designer has used very few downlighters and so those we do have tend to not be many in a row. I was thinking of using the Whitewing DMX controllers that @joth, at least I think it was (apologies if my memory has failed me on that!), was using (http://whitewing.co.uk/acdim.html). seems to be a cheaper option that Dali. I think I'll give all the details to my electrician and ask him to sort it out. 😉

thinking we might buy a goat?