Onoff

Technical Note No.9 here is interesting: http://www.gobrick.com

...was only kidding about the raised letters! What about glazing the bricks, is that done afterwards or as part of the firing?

Just to complicate your life, I think RAISED letters would look good.....

Says on good old Wikipedia that sand is to prevent shrinkage: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brick

Great start! Just re-read that link I posted about the brick making. Presumably you'll add sand to achieve 30% min / 50% max sand content? What sand would that be do you reckon? And 7 days at 1800 degC!

Just a clay brick recipe I found. Interesting about how to test the clay: http://www.brighthub.com/environment/green-living/articles/45788.aspx Just wondering ref the letters, would you maybe stick them to the bottom of the mould, push your clay in then turn the brick out of the mould? Looking forward to the video!

You could link them to an occupancy switch or break beam so they open as you approach them.....

Well they look as cool as f**k for a start! And if they make the Star Trek noise even better. Imagine them in electrochromic glass! Remember it's not "Should we?" but "Can we?". And it's a talking point.

That link...so does the dog eventually learn not to run into them?

In Screwfix's clearance section they've 3 blinding Bosch cordless drills. A good deal if you just want a drill and not looking to build up a set of cordless tools: All 18V: x2 1.5Ah - £99.00 x1 4.0Ah - £79.99 x1 3.0Ah - £69.99 A respectable 67Nm too. EDIT: I have the 3.0Ah one as a general jobbing drill at work and it's really good, stubby too.

Can't see why the carriage charges should be higher than anywhere else, there's a bridge FFS! Makes interesting reading at 2 o'clock in the morning, the controversy surrounding the Skye bridge. Does it still feel like an island?

How about a sheet of plate glass and some log rounds?

Nah.....I meant length ways! Not so sure about the chipboard either Seriously though why not, it serves it's purpose. (NIMBY though).

Just seen these letters in Hobby Craft: Cheapo, hollow but surprisingly solid card(?) ones about 100mm high for 55p each: Then much tidier, solid MDF italic ones; 80mm high x nom.15mm £1 or 130mm x nom. 20mm £2 each. (There's a Hobby Craft in Romford btw).

Is it only me that's looked at at a stack of tile battens butted together and thought...hmmmm!

Didn't realise it was a holiday let..... The missus chose ours so I didn't get a say in it. If I'd have been on my tod I'd have considered doing it on the cheap: - scaffold boards butted together and biscuit jointed - cast concrete maybe with some nuts and bolts slung in as pinpoints of shiny interest - strip wood again butted and biscuit jointed

Google search "diy drywall lifter" and go to Images. There's a superb TREBUCHET style one. I think I'm in love!

I think I've posted a picture of me and my then neighbour doing my DIY imprinted patio with coloured concrete (ballast, cement, exterior PVA). I had cause to visit the the old place the other week. 30 years later & the pseudo "blocks" that make up the patio still look like new.

Same as the one I used too. Go for it.

I did say if desperate! My local Wickes has had in the past an area where they sell off cheap, broken and chipped 3m tops. If delivery is what £39 then get a long one. As forgiving as my pattern is the join is noticable to the touch with a finger tip. The bit that came out barely OK and needed filling and speckling with a black Sharpie were the mitres on the breakfast bar I made. Of course there is the fact I'm not known for taking the easy route...

The more "speckly" the finish the easier it is to hide the join. You need to factor in the cost of a bit too. Depends how handy you are with the router? On that score the bigger, better the router, the better balanced it is. The big, heavy 110V DeWalt I have on semi-permanent loan is so much more superior anything else I've used. When I cut an "edge" I: - Support on trestles - Masking tape the cut line - Mark a line 3mm off the cut line and jig saw to that - Clamp a straight edge and cut to the cut line in 3 or 4 passes, increasing the depth each time I use the router for pretty much everything, cutting / edging Contiboard, holes for hobs etc @Construction Channel I'm sure could do a video!

What finish are you looking at?

If you're desperate you can join worktops pretty much invisibly. The pattern helps greatly and this "granular" one was hugely forgiving. The key is to use the router to cleanly and sharply edge the abutting ends / faces. The cat in the photo is sitting on a 400mm wide piece grafted to the stock 600mm worktop over a 3m length.

Northerner? I'm a soft, Southern, shandy drinker I'll have you know! Have been know to brave Passport Control & frequent the Halfway House on the A127 for Capri meets. Some interesting, related reading here about how fire bricks themselves are made. Powdered clay that can be melted, who knew! http://www.traditionaloven.com/articles/101/what-is-fire-clay-and-where-to-get-it