Onoff

Pretty sure I read once that 15 cats in a radiator shaped cage would keep the average room warm.....

I do believe I'm ready for a test filling of the bath! Plan then is: 1) Remove the removable half of the bath. Brackets just inside the long side panel: There's also a screw to the floor batten at the foot of the bath which will also have a removable panel. Also via this panel, 3 st/st screws from below (need trimming): 2) Slide the bath in an TEMPORARILY fit the waste relying on the rubber washers around the waste. 3) Fill up the bath and check for leaks around the jets and solvent waste. 4) Test run the pump and light. Now the tiling questions, apologies if already asked: Do I half fill or fill the bath? Something to do with checking how it sits? I assume when I've filled it I can gauge the gap I'll have all round between the underside of the bath lip and the ply deck. Should I look to tile the alcove first where the LED strip is going? Thinking leaning across once the bath is in will be difficult. What tanking liquid do I prime the ply with? At the back, behind where your head will be this is only moisture resistant plasterboard. Should I prime it with something too or does it need some sort of tanking "membrane": So.....if it all doesn't leak remove the bath and refit, properly sticking the waste with Sika. Erm.....that's as far as I've figured!

I really would have to look up what SAP means to be honest! I just look at something and think could I do that different/better. Even if I can't or it fails. I'll invariably have a go even if it ends up costing me a few quid. Keeps the old grey matter ticking over. Generally starts with looking at the shape of something and what's similar. With this I'm thinking about a wine making airlock. Ditch the top bit and fit a "cone" over the centre tube. Hot waste water goes in the top. Heat exchange coil goes around the outside to maximise surface area. "Cold", heat depleted water exits down the middle.

Don't tell me about hair! Between the wife and daughter it's like living with a pair of Cousin Its! It's No.2 clippers all over for me!

I've been looking at it for the bathroom tbh. That and the Ventaxia range that seems to double in price from the basic to the one with all the bolt on goodies like humidistats.

It's sourcing the sustainable energy floor tiles that's holding things up.

How about this for only £170? http://www.utilityfreeliving.co.uk/shower-water-heat-recovery/

Could you..... On the basis that UFH is so efficient, run the waste through a loop under your slab and hold it there until the heat dissipates.....thus recovering some heat. Then let it exit via a small turbine to get some hydro electric power.....making use of the kinetic energy.

A big house with lots of bedrooms will no doubt become a grandchildren magnet with the hordes descending for holidays & festivities. Just when you thought you'd got rid of the kids!

Not wanting to detract from this thread so I'll keep it short. Ref the issues between myself and Jeremy, we've been in direct contact throughout the day and the air has I hope been cleared over this. I'm in a better position knowing what apparently went on over eBuild's demise. Jeremy made some comments in haste ref his setting up his own site which riled myself and others. I bit and had a little dig back then and that carried on over to here. Jeremy has been gracious enough to admit this and I've genuinely conveyed my respect for what he's achieved and that I would be sad to see him go. I really do mean that. Apologies also for the self promotion jibe. I'd like to leave it at that. Regards

Just adding a perimeter lip with 20mm of 12mm ply. Glued and stainless panel pinned about every 75mm: The idea is that the bath lip will be outboard of the ply lip. The tiles will abut the ply near enough and the whole thing sat on a good thick mastic bead: I've also screwed the marine ply deck down with stainless screws. The one question mark is the use of D3 Gorilla glue throughout! Next a tanking coat of "something", tba!

Taken on the boy's Motorola phone but difficult to do the issue justice. It looks better than the video shows generally and not as "glaring". About 10 seconds from the end when it goes from dark red to white there's a flicker. I'll maybe try again when the Samsung tablet is charged up. No diffuser fitted as yet so that may help. I've also tried another "genuine" PSU from one of these kits and it makes no difference. Also tried another strip of lights and it's the same. Tbh the wife is quite happy with it. Maybe be it's me being pedantic.

I'd be VERY careful with your search terms there.....

So is this a case whereby vermin let loose in an MVHR system could actually be a GOOD thing? I'm thinking maybe a degu or chinchilla would be more appropriate size wise. Sort of a self cleaning system, just plumb the Rotastak in! Seriously, that stuff can't be good for you, would it harbour bugs etc you'd be breathing in? What is the protocol for periodic cleaning of these ducts.

I have done so in parts along the wall, it's brutal on chisels! If course you end up hacking the DPC level with the brick/block underneath so it really needs taking off above and a bell mouth reforming as you did.

Cheers Dave. My thoughts were that if using EPS it could happily bridge the DPC without rising damp being a problem as it's not hygroscopic. This is I think why EPS is preferable to PIR all day long for EWI. Pretty sure it's done it's just the exact detail I'd like to know. I once saw a commercial size stack of blue board insulation go up in flames on an adjacent site (think that was EPS). Thick, black, acrid smoke. It enveloped the site I was on and someone hit the alarm in our building. OUR stair pressurisation units kicked in sucking in thick, black, acrid smoke...

As I understand it, EWI should really continue below ground level for a certain distance. My understanding further is that it needs to sit against a"flat" wall rather than something rough with air pockets. In my case then the walls would need taking back and smoothing off with a render coat. The current finish looks to have been achieved by pressing a chip pan into the render! So.....when you get to the DPC, a mixture of slate on some walls and a tarry substance elsewhere what happens there? Do you need that smooth rendered face to continue all the way "down"? Then when you reach the footings, in my case not much wider than the wall: Do you stagger the EWI? It's a right mess tbh. The render was continued down over the DPC. An external path had been laid on polythene sheet lapped UP the walls! Damp issues? Oh yes! One step forward & two back!

This? http://shop.vitcas.com/vitcas-high-temperature-plasterboard-709-p.asp?gclid=CImgu7TSwNECFbEW0wod8fgFiQ

A pity they didn't go into the reasons why eBuild closed. Still, can't let things like that get in the way of a good story and a bit of self promotion.

I could drive a car all the way round my house though I may need a 4wd for a start and possibly some bridge laying equipment to cross the various unfilled trenches.....

Have you considered converting the garage itself to liveable space?

The technical data sheet says it's not a conventional pu: http://www.everbuild.co.uk/D4-Wood-Adhesive

Wish my MiL had a pacemaker.....

This? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p61864?table=no Still debating whether to ditch the D3 Gorilla Glue I've got for my bath carcassing and get some of this D4. I've used it loads over the last few years but the last lot turned into a rubbery white mass in the (new) bottle for some reason.

Abandoned / stuck cars up Rowdow Hill this morning. Pilgrims Way and through Otford on the way to Sevenoaks at 4.15 this morning. Roads gritted but not as good as I'd hoped by any means. Lot of tree branches down due ti weight of snow. Trains OK to London though I missed the first one. Just spoken to the wife who said it's snowing again there now. Death Hill up from Farningham has loads of abandoned cars & lorries but according to FB they're being moved now.