Onoff

It must be SO much easier starting from scratch rather than having to work round / modify old badly done stuff! Like my upstairs basin & shower wastes, all sagging pipes and leaking compression fittings! I ran the grey soil from the existing wc pipe in the loft and I also fitted the AAV to do away with a horrible, badly flashed detail that came up through the roof. I went "point to point", diagonally across the new bathroom ceiling as I was worried about the fall being slight. Reading this thread I wonder about turning the soil to run under the existing white, shower wastes then dropping the wastes into the soil run. I'd then have to turn through 90 deg with the soil towards the bottom of the photo. Is there a rule for how many solvent bosses you can have and a distance to keep them apart? The downside I see to this is if your sink/shower trap dries out or the soil backs up. Both avoided if the wastes enter a drain "normally". Much neater though! I know you can get non return valves that fit the wastes but I'd worry about hair blockages.

Belt and braces, power in, tee off to the fitting, power onto the next: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/PRUBX03.html Cheaper than Pratley boxes but you have to add your own glands. https://www.connexbox.com/wagobox-capsule-ip68-adaptable-junction-box-grey.html WAGO is good stuff imho. I've even seen WAGO connectors used in Pratley boxes. Makes terminating SWA a doddle if you go that route: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=Blade+runner&Submit=Search

Cheers. Tempted to just put a Y in the downpipe myself and run to a totally separate extract if that's feasible. Maybe with a manual switch.....pressure pad under the seat?

Check out Pratley boxes for imo the best you'll get mechanical protection wise.

How are you going to clad it?

HTF did I manage to get the one pipe slightly too short? New hot run: Little snakey bend from new to old: Haven't even got to this mess yet, can see it but need to remove the partial floor above in the eaves: HOWEVER..... Just got to sort the cold tomorrow and it's bath time!

If planning on fitting a UVC later (my later ) then where does the cold feed to a bath come from? For that matter the cold feed to showers. My simple logic says if you're planning a UVC and everything (hot & cold) will be at mains pressure (after any PRV) then the cold feed to the bath (what I'm doing now) could just be tapped off the mains incoming at the first convenient point. Something tells me this is wrong and there's a specific connection at the UVC for cold. As it stands today the quickest way forward is hot from the hot water cylinder and cold from the CWS. I have running close by though the incoming mains and wondered if that was an option. One worry is that if I go mains on the cold and take hot from the hot water cylinder there'll be issues at the mixer taps. Maybe haven't explained that the best! I want "drinking" water at the sink. Is that any different if it comes via the "cold" at the UVC? Cheers

Yeah.....you really don't know ME do you?

So the concept of this is: - The flush pipe has a Y branch. - Once flushed, there's no more water coming down that pipe. - You extract via the Y branch and the smell gets sucked in under the rim of the wc. What's the pipe back to the cistern do? @Auchlossen, have you got a picture of where it connects to the cistern.

One thing leads to another..... In the back of future EWI considerations I'm seriously considering bringing my soils "inside". Currently have this: Ignore the brown soil going from the 3" down pipe temporarily. As I'm now likely going to form a full height angled face in this corner to mount the shower controls I'm thinking maybe to move the vertical soil pipe above, inside into the corner then down under the footings? A bit more work but a much cleaner external result. I'd need to mod the corner studwork. Then core drill down through the ring beam I cast just about where the rake handle is: Which was covered in EPS: And of course the PIR and DPM! PPPPPP!

One thing leads to another..... In the back of future EWI considerations I'm seriously considering bringing my soils "inside". Currently have this: Ignore the brown soil going from the 3" down pipe temporarily. As I'm now likely going to form a full height angled face in this corner to mount the shower controls I'm thinking maybe to move the vertical soil pipe above, inside into the corner then down under the footings? A bit more work but a much cleaner external result.

I vaguely remember this discussion way back. Can an older Geberit system be modified, pre installing in the wall to allow for future take off like this?

Trying to pluck up the courage to go into the unheated hip end of the roof to run hot and cold to the bath. New pipes come up just in front of the coil of coax top left. Available hot and colds are bottom right where they disappear under the dormer 9"x6" either side of the branch off the white tee. (Those three feed the upstairs en suite basin. (Sad when I've been working 300' up all week without issue but that, when in the sun was actually very pleasant). Now back to the reality of how bad the existing pipe runs really are and how much heat I must be losing en route to the bathroom. Best clear some space in there & get that heater on for a couple of hours!

I've a couple you could borrow if you're Kent/London. Tbh I find a garden sprayer the best thing when cutting into a floor.....and a huge extractor.

Appreciate the plan/side view thing! Do you have a link to the site, the quality of the screen grab isn't that easy to decipher? Cheers

Ta. So top, middle diagram is akin to what I have IF I added a couple of inches of insulation inside?

I've Googled "fitting window to EWI" looking for a section through view to no avail. Collecting the new Window next Friday

Total guess on my part that. I'm an "if in doubt 4:1" type!

I would like to do the EWI when and if we are able to get PP to change the hip ends on the bungalow to gables. Figure the EWI could just carry straight on up. As for getting PP I'm doubtful. The house has already I believe had it's 50% extension allowance before we bought it and I think if you increase the m3 in the loft by doing gables from hips that comes into it. Plus the profile that would change faces the road. That being said, looking up and down the road I would say gable ended properties outnumber hipped roofs by a big majority. AONB, SSI etc.

Sorry, "ingoes"?

A milestone for me. I finally fitted the trap and overflow to the bath. Followed @Nickfromwales instructions to the letter though my thought's on a "smear" of Sika I'm thinking differ. When I've done sinks in the past (and maybe one bath years ago?) the rubber has never really fitted the hole properly and it's looked naff with Boss white of whatever was avaialable. I ditched one washer as he said and loaded with Sika EBT. The top side has come out really well IMO. Removed the excess with a wet wipe which was another top tip and I didn't get that messy! The less visible areas.....? AND I didn't turn the trap as I did it all up!

Can't, crap magent / pikey genes. I can't even pass a skip without braking!

We used to use this stuff at work: http://www.img-limited.co.uk/product/liquid-granite/ (As well as many other IMG products) Came as a powder you mixed with water. The rep cam in, took a cup from the water dispenser and added some water and powder. He then stuck an M16 stainless bolt in and left it for not very long. It got hot then set. I still have the sample he did somewhere. We used it to repair the concrete tiled bearing surfaces for travelling window cleaning rigs. (HSBC York was one from memory). Really incredible stuff. No affiliation either.

I think we have a winner with that! Might be a better bet going for their £13.99 on as in don't go for the cheapest? http://www.argos.co.uk/product/7106062 I went through a phase of buying I think Nu-tool tat from Makro as they were dead cheap, got a: dead cordless drill, dead mains sabre saw, dead 24V sabre saw working circular saw working mains delta sander I use NONE of them! 3/8" router from Aldi - working save for an irreplaceable broken piece dead mains brad stapler from Aldi I use neither of them Got 9.6V Bosch and 12V Makita drills with no batteries etc. Could probably fill a couple of filing cabinet draws with duff power tools!

So I have this nasty old,single glazed, wooden window in the downstairs cloak: I've measured up my existing window: Got a price from local guy of £160 all in (nephew's mate). That a for 28mm profile, 1.2W/m2K & includes handle/lock, sill and both top and bottom in Pilkington Stippolyte. He did offer and obscure Pilkington at no extra cost. I'm also having a wider sill for no extra as and when I do the wall in EWI. Wickes nearest equivalent comes out at £135 and is a 24mm profile / 1.4W//m2K. I'm happy with the guy's price. Wickes also come with their trickle vents which I just think are noisy and draughty. (I can get Compriband 600 for nothing for it which helps btw). Now externally the existing window is fitted pretty much flush with the outside face: Knowing NOTHING ref EWI etc should I be fitting the new window inboard of where it is? Tbh until I get the old window out I'm not sure of the construction. I only know when drilling thru for the outside tap recently there didn't appear to be a cavity. Cheers