Onoff

Anyone would think it's April 1st...

Erm.....I think there's rules against that! Might run an intercom to call them in for dinner/bath etc. Saying that I'd probably Skype / Whatsapp / Discord / ooVoo them. Tends to be one of those methods for parent / child comms in this house nowadays! Easier than shouting with their headphones on as it comes up on screen in front of them

Iris brise soleil?

Pretty much my thoughts to do it as a learning exercise. Once the missus sees the concept "works" maybe I can convince her ref the house. It's a good 50m from the house where I'd ideally site it. And yes, MVHR would be the plan.

I knew that dig would be incoming from someone! Easily bored that's my problem! I love this for the aesthetics but can see huge solar gain issues. A bit of decent glass too might be costly but I could possibly get some rectangular, commercial curtain walling. Then have the "round window" as an offset frame and hidden, sliding brise soleil like pocket doors behind that. Gotta have dreams!

Just putting it out there but thinking of building a garden room to get rid of the kids and their friends etc. Think "Dengineers" but a lot more upmarket. The old play house and tree house were fails tba. What's the thoughts to building it to near Passiv standards but on a much smaller scale, maybe 30sq.m. Cost irrelevant. Home made SIPs etc.

Godsend this:

Let's think about this...laying a course now would put you back on track level wise and probably save hassle in the long run. You're likely going to have to cut at the top anyway if you don't. I wonder could you shutter and lay a concrete strip to bring up to level?

I'd lap it personally. Some strategically placed building materials, diversionary plate of biscuits or missus in a low cut top should the BCO pay too much attention.

I find it useful to raid the playroom in order to visualise blockwork, like this as yet unstarted pillar for the gate: Getting a bit more real with some loose blocks:

Went for 5mm gap round the sleeve. Looks OK. Could have easily done 3mm I reckon:

It's ONLY a shed base using up some 1860's stocks and modern Celcon.

Well if that's wrong.....

Thinking back to breaking up any old concrete slab and the real tough, bastard ones would ring as the impact of the whacks reverberated up my arm through the sledge hammer! My bathroom slab makes more of a "thunk". Think it's because I have hollows all over (under?) the area due to the nominal 100mm slab being laid on Polypipe trays. Makes a lighter slab I know. No signs of any cracks to date, thank God for the A142 mesh. Still bugs me I forgot the fibres!

Relax, job's a good'un by the sound (literally) of it: https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/theconstructor.org/practical-guide/destructive-non-destructive-field-test-of-concrete/7147/amp/

Proper concrete saws are thicker than wood ones.....or at least my one is. Toolstation I think...

Erm.....I know "a bloke" who's just fitting plasterboard in his bathroom and he has gone down to the floor with it. It is the green moisture resistant one btw. So no gap. "His" plan is to tile the floor first then bring the wall tiles down. All wall to floor junctions will be done with tanking tape beforehand.

As this is a public forum there's a good chance he'd find out anyway that it was you? Btw, what's the purpose of the culvert? To gain access across the burn? Any thoughts of a small hydroelectric plant there? (I'd love a stream like that!)

I LOVE YOU!!

Anything that takes the edge off!

+ = QED

The sticky out Geberit box thing the flush plate goes on.....is it just a case of careful measuring then cut a rectangle in the cement board to suit as close as and you snap off the exess projecting box later once you've tiled? Or should I leave say a 3mm nom gap all round in the cement board? Cheers

Solar thermal from BEER cans!

OK, here are my "tees": Coming across from the left (under the 2-way valves) is the 28mm return, goes from the bottom of the coil in the cylinder back to the boiler. Marked and coming in from the left is the UPstairs CH return, coming up from the bottom of the photo is the DOWNstairs CH return They both then tee into the 28mm return to the boiler. EDIT: Need to do some more checks. Just realised I've marked those 2-way valves above WRONG!!! CH-DN should be on the left and CH-UP on the right.....

Would have expected if that (convection) was the case then for the LAST rad on the single pipe system to be the one getting warm as that is nearest to the commoning point of the two returns. BUT it's the first rad on the single pipe system i.e the first one after the two way valve.