Onoff

And does that tape stay there permanently?

I've read about air testing on here, marvelled (enviously ) at some people's results and thought I understood the concept. The phrase "taping windows and doors" keeps coming up. What does this mean exactly? If you need to tape to test then in real world use that tape isn't there and the results are pointless. The window / door design should surely be such that the rubber seals are in effect airtight without taping. I can half understand taping over key holes as those mechanisms might be inherently leaky but then not really. They should be the known (minor) loss points and everything else should be designed out.

He does say something in the vid about it getting sharp thru use though I imagine as you say it's the edges thinning over time. I cleaned the big st/st trowel and small 14" plain steel one with 80 grit and imo they spread fine just doing the joints. Just realised it's a pre worn trowel the other bloke works on with the 80 grit:

Man flu pretty much gone, just a tickly throat left! Watching a video of plastering linked above and "Brad" seems to suggest the edges of the trowel be razor/knife sharp as in if you're not careful they'll cut your fingers off and I felt he was being serious. Yet I watched another guy showing how to wear in a trowel with 80 grit paper and he ran the paper square along the edge then took the burrs off. I followed his advice and the trowel felt right in use albeit just doing the joints. Any pointers?

Quite common too to see slate or pitch damp courses bridged by later render.

I'd biscuit joint the boards square but at the join put a reinforcing strip underneath D4 glued and screwed.

This freed up the Ford VV carb on my old Capri recently. Engine hadn't started in about 20 years. Mind it would have been proper old 4 star not this modern sticky crap! Tbh I can't fault the Tectane products from TS. I use loads of their Contact Spray at work along with the Penetrating Oil. https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/d60/Lubricants+%26+Sprays/sd2795/Carburettor+Cleaner/p30713 (The Pro-Coat Cold Galv Spray is excellent too).

Is it less than 2.2m left to right in your first post's picture?

Just realised our old breakfast bar was 500mm wide, cut from a random bit of someone's cast off 600mm one. 250mm radiused one end so straight sides. The top was I think covered in Fablon and I edged it in white pvc trunking lid! Found an old pic when making the current bar leg and foot rest. You can see the jig cut, pocketed and biscuit jointed end:

I just bought a 1.8m beach effect worktop from there, £60, for my elderly parents. Quite impressed tbh. I'm putting in a freestanding 1000mm base unit and just needed a cheap top that near matches the existing.

Check out Ikea for cheap 28mm worktops, 1.86m long from £30.

I'm in Kent, if you can plaster, tile, don't mind crap cooking and fat birds then you can move in!

I was thinking you meant to use rounded edge worktop like mine. Getting the trim to look good where the edge goes from flat (where you've routed the corner) to blend with the curved edge is tricky.

Imo trying to round the edge like this on laminate worktop will look crap. The edging you stick on doesn't like being bent anyway.

You stick the pivot point in the other side of the worktop i.e not the good side.

You can do a 90deg corner as 2 45deg cuts. You will need an extra +600mm extra worktop on one leg to do this. I was lucky as two 3m worktops came with slight damage and got replaced. I got to keep the damaged bits so had extra to play with. With a plain finish you will see this more than one like mine. You should still biscuit and pocket such a join imo. A 45 join will be a longer join for water to potentially get under. You will likely notice where the two woktops meet in the internal corner more than with a jig. You can make a simple jig from scrap to do the pockets underneath. 99.9% of people use a jig for a 90. If you don't you're going against the grain. If you want to route a radius on that corner you just turn the worktop upside down and centre it on the "cardboard" side. You risk "breakout" one end of the cut. At the price for that jig Peter posted you could likely use it then sell on eBay and get your money back. You're not by any chance after my Procrastination Crown are you?

I was always told 6" (150mm) is the height an average raindrop bounces. It's why all our lead capped plinths for plant atop roofs are this high as a minimum.

I was changing vans at work one time, I also happened to be renovating our first house though we weren't living there. It seemed logical to dump the van contents in the empty front room so it was empty for the lease company. I'd been working in the front room so some of my own diy gear was there as well. As I left the house and slammed the door a precariously leant Workmate I'd left against the lounge wall fell onto a half used can of foam... A bit of a mess when I came back...

Lidl from this Sunday: https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/Non-Food-Offers.htm?articleId=14019

Cheers. Unforunately the joints are done and now dry. The last ones are much better than the first once I got my hand in! Just the L shaped ceiling and one half wall to do. Got my cream of tartar so all ready for when over the man flu.

Welcome. Try sea water for getting rid of Triffids

Yes, I'm ill. Oveheard SWMBO to her mate earlier "He was getting on alright then he got man flu!". It's scientifically proven love, men get hit harder by these things!

Spoke to my AC mate on site today and he reckons £300 isn't far off the mark to test, repair if leaky & regas. Reckons your location might be an issue too.

Just showing you can make a join without a jig. For your right angle buy a jig. I'm the King of being told how to do something and going my own way btw so if I say buy a jig...buy a jig. 1) It's neater 2) Doing it at 45 and you'll need an extra 600mm+ of worktop anyway. That'll cost you more than a £16 jig. A couple more of mine done with a jig: If you're really cheap...worktop corner trim. Wickes, B&Q etc:

There's a fair chance your walls won't be at 90o so doing a 45o isn't quite as simple. Ideally you lay one board on the units against the wall, lay the other one atop it against it's wall - both overlength and split the difference. A bit of a pig to mark out first time. Can be done though. Mine / acceptable: