Onoff

As a kid 13A plugs were in short supply in our house. We were always swapping them. The one I had I ended up losing the screw so I wrapped an elastic band round the two halves. Unplugging it one day the top came off and grabbed the pins. I think it was more suprise shock than electric shock but I flew backwards and hit the opposite wall.

Very likely a route for "mine" too. Shallow footings and old / new sections of the house. I don't think too much attention was paid to keying sections together and there'll be wide gap joints etc. Saying that not all my walls are cavity walls some are solid with a rudimentary service cavity onside. Bathroom / waste positions have changed over the years so there's likely old clay pipes. If I had my way I'd dig up the old concrete path that fronts the house. Bet I'd find a few runs.

I got to thinking that too but this has been off for ages. Maybe its a case they get used to it?

Monday night heard loud gnawing above the bedroom ceiling within the flat roof! I've trimmed any overhanging branches near the house but still have 4 overhead cables. Also plenty of squirrels about. I'd poked an extension lead up there years ago, just a lead with a single 13A socket on into the inaccessible loft space with one of that ultrasonic vermin repeller things plugged in. SWMBO had tuned it off a while back as she thought it "might upset the cat". Turned it back on last night, no more gnawing!

Around doors and windows you just cut back the pallet and let in a length of timber. Often you can re-use the bit of the pallet you cut off as it'll be at the right width and not need ripping along it's length. Double up if worried about strength. Over wide windows you might want a longer length you may have to buy in/rip down. See the very short pallet on the right? That was cut down at the door and a piece let in and screwed on. If you do want add in posts though use 6×150 screws or similar. Depends what way you're screwing. Might want too to get yourself some extra long 6mm drill bits for clearance through the posts.

With PIR, however good a fit you start off with isn't there always going to be an eventual, possibly varying gap between the PIR and timber stud? Guessing a spray foam like Icynene, that sticks to to the timber might accommodate such movement better? Some I believe advocate cutting the PIR 5/10mm short on the width deliberately and foam filling the whole gap width one side as an expansion thing. Is there a case for doing it both sides?

Still sewage issues down there then?

I've one. I Iike the wavy edge blade idea. Not as accurate as my original Celotex pink handsaw though on say 100mm stuff.

I'm going to go for bfo table saw!

Money no object you could commission some bespoke ones in stainless steel!

Would acrylic resin be better?

You might consider Ferrogard. From memory this was used to arrest the corrosion on art deco concrete buildings for one. I think Sika bought the product off the inventor? I recall when it first came out and the blurb to the effect that fresh concrete around steel initially has a protective effect enveloping it in an alkaline medium. Over time there's an ingress of C02 and it turns acidic leading to corrosion. Or something like that... https://www.rawlinspaints.com/home/repair-materials/hole-and-damage-mortars/1970-sika-ferrogard-903.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0pbTjJS4_gIVCYFQBh0x7godEAAYASAAEgKy_PD_BwE

Crap, thin walled steel box section stuff here. Powder coated so the water gets under it and rusts let alone inside the box sections. Give it a few years and it pisses rusty water when you move it. I'd go for heavy, cast aluminium if money were no object.

How far back is the front face of the wood, from the face of the wall above where the skirting was?

None at all on the fully tiled walls. It's a wet room in regular use. Only issue is some black mould (?) On the painted ceiling. That was done in Dulux Trade Diamond Matt. I think that's because there is no heating in the bathroom still. Towel rail and UFH aren't connected yet.

Oh and don't paint plastered walls before tiling.

PVA in a bathroom is shite. Any hint of moisture and it'll re-wet making anything else on top, like tiles lift and come off. How far is the face of the wood from the face of the wall? Depending on depth, I'd be tempted to tack on some expanded metal mesh to the timber. Treat the wood with a killer/preserver too. Then render level and tank the lot. What's the plan in terms of finish for the walls and floor here?

You use extra long, flat wood bits with an extension bar if necessary.

Low expansion foam even better.

Just like heat pumps.

Unlikely:

+1.

What did you do to her?

So yours is two Induction loops?