Onoff

Is the worktop level?

How apt! adjective showing very poor judgement; unwise. "I took a few injudicious swigs of potent cider"

I won't join in and suggest a Sunamp could be heated by a menopausal woman. Do they have a hot air input? "Face Change Material"

I think I've hit the manopause...

My experience is a bit different! As much to do with "new" felt being laid over old and it rouching up forming horizontal barriers to the run off. Joins are bad too, where they have butted pieces together rather than overlapping. FA slope mind.

Might give you some comfort for the future even if it's "wrong": "It shows excellent adhesion to the substrate, high flexibility, high resistance to weathering, as well as UV resistance. It shows high resistance to standing water, thus it can be used on flat roofs without particularly good slopes". https://isomat-pu-systems.com/solutions/waterproofing-conventional-flat-roof-polyurethane-liquid-membrane/ Post up the membrane system make and the peeps on here will be lining up to read the tech spec and comment!

Is there anything in the tech spec for the liquid membrane that says about minimum falls? You might do well to have a look at Approved Document Part H based on this I found: http://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/bauder.htm The building regs are statutory so there's really no dispute that would require an independent surveyor imo. You can download from here: https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200135/approved_documents/71/part_h_-_drainage_and_waste_disposal As said if it's been done well, allows smooth run off etc maybe it'll be ok. I'd try and get BC on your side asap to add weight if you decide to delay payment. Maybe even try and work a hefty discount to offset future issues if it fails or some written g'tee from the builder for the expected life of the roof. (I feel your pain btw. Our flat roofs on the dormers have exactly this issue).

Most I think including me squidge the sink down on a thick bead of mastic, tighten the sink clamps on the underside then baby wipe the Hell out of it so it's all gone. You haven't done where the worktop butts up to the pb yet have you?

How about a white UPVC trim strip like this to match the sink: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-PVCu-White-Cloaking-Profile-45-x-2500mm/p/162621 Bed it on clear silicon and baby wipe the excess off. You can also get it in woodgrain effect.

You're making a habit of this thinking you can't, moaning like f**k about it, then coming out the other side finding you can do it and pretty damn well too! Have faith! To apply a neat mastic bead I use old empty mastic tubes and a very weak solution of Fairy liquid. I'll try and do a little video.

Not to detract ftom zoot's thread but snapped the humerous off the elbow and broken the elbow as well. Pre existing brittle bones and circulatory issues. Fingers crossed....not that he can!

Bigger problems with my old man at the mo!

I raised my L shaped worktop formed of two pieces on little blocks atop the cabinet carcasses. This enabled me to get the clamps on to squeeze everything together whilst the glue dried. When dry I removed the blocks and lowered the now glued worktop onto the carcasses.

No bfo clamps like this? If it will all bend flat under pressure using clamps, I'd be trying to keep the clamps on whilst the strong glue dries with the ply plates AND biscuits in place.

Could it be that Osmo'ing the top "sealed" it. If the underside is then open to moisture in the air could that then expand and bow the top?

Cheers. Something like this then: Just boosted the HW tonight with both 2 ports off and that first rad on the downstairs single pipe run after the 2 port got really quite warm. Must be bypassing? Last rad on the single pipe system is stone cold.

If the worktop is really concave to that extent could it be a manufacturing defect? A carefully worded email with accompanying picture to the supplier, citing the fact one out of two is OK, would I have thought seen a replacement delivered to your door FOC.

That pic where the broom is leaning, you have a bit of capping coming down the wall with two bits of cable in. Is there any socket etc going this side of the wall? Basically I'm suggesting that cabling might be "outside the zones". Nothing to stop you as I can see it drilling there and hitting the hidden cabling. To add you would usually look up/down, left and right from a socket or switch and know not to drill there in the "band" drawn up/down/left or right of the socket etc.

Evening, me again! It seems that if the HW is on and the CH off the rads still get warm. Where should I start looking? System was basically this, I sketched up a bit neater the original drawing of the system: BUT...I added 4 rads upstairs then two 2-port valves after the 3 port to zone upstairs and downstairs: First thought is the 3-port is letting by but then so what to some degree as it the hot shouldn't get any further if the 2-port is closed. Looking in the above pic at the 2-port marked CH-Down, that feeds the 3/4" nominal bore single pipe CH downstairs. It goes from the bottom of this valve to the first rad in the run in 22mm copper via the red handled ball valve. Should I just change all 3 valves and be done with it? Would the gate valve to balance things have any effect? Cheers Edit: Return to boiler appears as hot as the flow from the pump of that helps. Return is the blue taped 28mm running left to right from the bottom of the cylinder: And viewed from the other side where the upstairs and downstairs CH returns join that pipe: Trying to measure pipe temps with a cheap laser thermometer and black insulation tape stuck on the copper pipes but readings all over the place!

It'll be Rat City under that decking by now!

12'x9.5' outside dimns, the one in my pics above. So approx 11'x8.5' inside. He's infilled the pallet walls inside with more pallet wood. Only shot I've got; his bench top, window sill with the bark still on and pallet clad internal wall. Did mull filling the walls with insulation...but didn't. Outside of the pallets is wrapped in breathable felt stapled on. Then vertical tile battens. Then the cladding is screwed on (piss poorly mind ) He spent about £200 but on top was stuff he scrounged from me & his FiL. Git used most of my big 3mm packs!

Tiling going nowhere at the mo. 3 (4?) sick parents / in laws.

I might yet...

No not mine. I basically guided a non diy'er. Helped him with the base then have gradually stepped away. Got him to the point now where he is now happily using a bevel gauge even! Had to bite my tongue a few times if I've thought something looks a bit rough.

Proper solid is a pallet shed, this is clad in scrap from the bandsaw log mill: