Onoff

F**k Stoptober, bring on Cantremembernovember!

We'll pretend then that I MEANT to drill the holes for the NRV access at 35 and not 40mm!

Unfortunately the highly reflective, chrome flush plate will make everything look smaller!

In the cold light of day I'm happier! The offset is only around 10mm: What's interesting (to me anyway) is that my CAD was bang on. Pity I'm so inexperienced at tiling that I couldn't make the CAD a reality. If I had got the mitre corner bang on instead of 10mm out laterally (aside from other cock ups), then everything would have shifted 10mm left and the grout line would have been bang on central to the wc:

High Rocks?

I don't think you can beat lead for longevity, solidity etc. There's various alternatives some based on EPDM with a layer of aluminium I think. Bet the life expectancy is nowhere near that of lead. Of course lead has that "nickable" factor. Can't think of anything nicer that lead flashing with seam welded joints. Met a roofer years back on a Laings site. He was that good it was unreal. Known as "Ted The Lead". A dying art sadly...probably due to lead poisoning!

Nards! Should have made the mosaics 5 tiles wide rather than 4. Then the grey tiles the valve is on a little narrower: Why? It would have allowed the mosaics abutting the other wing to be 5 tiles wide too. Why does this matter? By not doing so means the grout line will be offset laterally to the centre of the wc and pocket above by +1" maybe more! It's the little things that separate the men from the boys!

I'd like the money back I spent on Pernod & black back in the day. Drew the line at the brandy & Babycham drinkers though, too deep for this apprentice's pockets!

Cough?

I prefer the coloured H-T ones tbh. You can tell at a glance the number by the colour. I'll look at the RS number on my boxes in a while. For years I just used the 3M tape dispenser type. Think it's empty now or at least severely depleted of rolls. Edit: Knowing the number by colour at a glance assumes you have the resistor colour code engrained into your brain since aged about 10!

Sharpie on the sheathing, cable markers on the individual cores where they terminate at the breakers, neutral and earth blocks works for me.

Female! Name's not Martin Goodman is it?

Classy lass! First beer and smile on my face in a (really sh!t) couple of weeks! I'm clearly designed to drink alcohol.

Christ, she best have shares in a brewery if that ends up happening!

Bet you can almost taste the Diamond White!

Lidl doing Scottish beer range soon: https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/Offers.htm?id=819&week=1

Trust @pocster to get excited about a hole!

In the Tamarind now!

OK I'll openly admit this is the second attempt at this tile! First one was about 2.5mm too low. 35mm cheapo cutter cuts clean as a whistle. The chrome fitting ends up anyway 10mm off centre laterally just due to the way I've laid the tiles. Oddly that doesn't overly bother me.

Wickes? Where I got mine but I didn't need much: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Pipe-Insulation-Byelaw-22-x-1000mm-Pack-3/p/210012

Why not, if she kills the power?

Bought this cheapo diamond grit set for £7.50 inc p&p. Some weird sizes like 28 and 30mm. Don't think I've Starretts to match...27 and 32 the nearest maybe. They're similar but lighter construction to the couple (40 & 65mm) I first use to drill the three holes in the tile that goes over the shower valve. You get: 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm,16mm, 18mm, 20mm, 22mm, 25mm, 28mm, 30mm, 35mm, 40mm, 45mm, 50mm Going to try one now to drill the hose outlet.....hole. @Nickfromwales said back on p46 of the mega thread: I've never had one with a backnut. Tbh, it's rare to get rear access so you'd never get to fit one anyway. The one you've got fits as follows. : 1) you measure the diameter of the fitting, the chrome bit after the brass thread. 2) you get that size tile hole saw and make a hole 2-3mm bigger. 3) you fit an outside tap backplate into the wall at about 1/4" shy of finished tile face. 4) you tile and grout after blanking the outlet and pressure testing. 5) turn the fitting into the outlet until its tight. At this stage it'll likely have bottomed out without the chrome going past the tile face. 6) measure what you need for the chrome bit to finish 3-4mm into the tile. 7) cut that much off the brass thread. ? you put 22-26 turns of ptfe onto the last 25mm of thread ( so 50 turns or so in total to get the thread covered ) 9) turn the outlet into the backplate until it's pointing down and just shy of proud of the tile face ( slightly recessed ) 10) do not go so far that you have to back turn anti clockwise 11) clear ct1 the tile hole tobthe brass thread by pumping it full. 12 ) push the cover ring down the outlet until it rests on the tile. It's NOT there as a waterproof seal, and the rubber o-ring is only a friction ring to keep it parked. The ct1 forms the watertight element. Clear as mud ? So the chrome bit that has to go into the tile is a fraction over 30mm dia: Looks then like its the 35mm dia holesaw from the new set!

+1. Follow that white cable that goes off to the left and behind the vertical copper pipe.

Only said it to see you run! Does access appear reasonable for someone with a screwdriver? If you can safely do it then a clear shot with your the top off would be good. I can see the cables going off to the two valves...I think!

Welcome. What's a Heluz block then?