Onoff

I amazed at just how sturdy the nephew's pallet shed is tbh. Flew up too. Far better than the carp ones out of 2"x1". Some real solidity about it. If it was me I'd have gone that bit further and made lattice roof trusses o/of pallets.

If you make one then consider what type of pallet you'll mostly be stripping and adjust to suit so it slips over the main bearers. My one is a bit restricted to the circa 2" wide bearers though you can unbolt the angles and have them facing outward. Original thread on it here: tripping

Dog rough sketch of the one I made in the video:

Essential to build!

Got the pallets above first. A few were 10' long. Concrete base was sized to suit the pallets. Outside is wrapped in a breathable membrane. No insulation in this one though we did discuss putting a membrane in the inside too then filling with eps beads.

Oak veneered MDF? Peel n Stick veneer?

Put me down for 2 weeks in August please!

Scots blood here maybe? The faux pas first! It'll do! Need to tweak here and there.

So I made a router jig. Worked an absolute treat. 3" hinges fit like a glove: Needs a bit of sanding... Pity I did 6" at the bottom and 9" at the top! Turned the effin door through 180 like an idiot! They're now through housings...

Many years ago (87, 88?) I used to have to have "Syntha Pulvin" done. It was all the rage with architects. Basically posh polyester powder coating with various alleged guarantees. Tbh I used to present the genuine samples to the architect then get a local powder coater to do the bulk work. The thing is I could always get touch up pots with it.

IF I was using a brand new door! Going to trim it down to 750mm width (it's 751 at the top) to square it up then graft a 12mm strip up the hinge side to bring it back to 762mm. Anyway it's only temporary...like the carpet... "Fire up the router!"

Star Trek...small compressor...

Can't find the pics at the mo but I built my stud wall for the pocket out of 2"x2" with bog standard 1/2" pb on the outside. Infilled the stud with Rockwool batts. No worse sound wise than any others tbh. The face the door shuts against I routed out and fitted self adhesive intumescent foam strip. Works a treat. Tbh there's nothing to go wrong inside with the aluminium track. Think it's just the cheap rollers are noisy. Door comes off in a couple of minutes if they're ever an issue. This is my one: https://www.toolstation.com/sliding-door-gear/p34159?

Well that'd make a change...

I wanted a pocket slider here...SWMBO didn't! Got one on our bedroom. Since I turned the standard double bed into a super king size there's even less space so it's a godsend. Cheap door gear (Slik?) so a bit noisier than I'd like but super practical.

No rhyme or reason, totally random. You've lost me...build lining around door? Got a ragged hole here. Half a plan to cut the haunches off the header. Screw header to sides. Sit in hole. IF door is square then shim up all round... Going to make a quick hinge jig for the router.

Ta. Thinking an oak veneer door eventually, like this: https://www.selcobw.com/products/doors-windows-stairs/doors/internal-doors/palermo-internal-oak-door-1981-x-762-x-35mm-6-6-x-2-6-fscr Any problems with this type (veneer) in a bathroom setting? Planning as I said elsewhere to re-use the old door "for now". I am assuming it's bad very roughly fitted before. Hinges only about 2" long, barely let in. Should I aim for brass, st/st hinges? 2 or 3? At the mo the hinges are 195mm in from each end. I'll just re-cut for the new hinges at the 6" top / 9" bottom positions. Need to assess how square the existing door is and delve down the shed to see what hinges I have.

MiL coming down for Christmas day. I might make my excuses and start the grout!

Merry Christmas to you too. What's next then?

Just arranged for my parents kitchen and bathroom to be done in lino. Cheapest of the cheap. No underlay, no surface prep against the shops advice but it'll (sadly) very likely outlast them. House built circa 1960 so those old square (bitumen bedded?) tiles like a chess board. SWMBO went over to let the bloke in. Reckons he was pretty much seconds rather than minutes fitting it. Said the left him in the kitchen and walked through to the lounge. No sooner had she sat down than the guy appeared and she thought he needed something from his van, not that he was done! Tidy job too.

"Stops" that was the word! Unfortunately I've lost the ones that came with the lining, it's been so long. I've read 6" in for the top hinge, 9" for the bottom one . Then 2mm gap top & sides. Sound about right?

Any benefit in using a rebated door lining like this: https://www.selcobw.com/products/timber-mdf-sheet-materials/softwood-primed-mdf/door-linings/door-casing-set-rebated-38mm-x-115mm-nom-2-6-head-pefc As opposed to to one where you pin the strips on? Long time since I've fitted one...like 30 years.

Lino...been there, done that, though SWMBO usually does it. Plenty of vids on YouTube. Use cardboard for templates around tricky bits. I have before, for small areas like a bathroom actually laid a full lining paper/pizza box/Cornflakes packet pattern in the room to be done all held together with duct tape. I've then rolled out the lino in a bigger room and laid the pattern out Sellotaped on. Make a few diagonal checks. Draw round with a Sharpie and cut with decent bfo upholstery scissors...but that's just me! Professionals I think just push it against the wall with a metal straight edge and cut with a Stanley. They're incredibly quick too, like lightning fast. If you do the skirting afterwards you have 1/2" of leeway to screw up and be able to hide it.

Dust extractor was a total fail! With that cone on the end it blew outward rather than sucking! So it was the old faithful Wickes/Earlex vac, 10mm holes SDS drilled through, 1" apart then the bolster. High spots taken off with a comb chisel. Door frame needs the stubby bits taken off: And the previously plastered bit on the soffit needs to be hacked out: For now the old 30" door is going back on: