Onoff

Germans invented that. Selective Laser Sintering is incredible. You might know it as laser powder bed fusion. You can do metals with it, things like exhaust manifolds. Gas flow can be modelled, tweaked and then what works optimally, simply printed off. There's no need to manually profile stuff after like with traditional casting.

You'll need to wear rubber gloves, a gas mask and get very sticky and messy with lots of sloshing of liquids. At least you'll have plenty of experience of similar.

I'd go with Part M, controls between 750 & 1000mm: Doc M Shower Pack Details & Layout Guide.pdf

https://www.cnet.com/tech/computing/bambu-labs-x1-carbon-vs-bambu-labs-p1p-review/

All I'll say is look what happened to Tesla. Died in poverty and the government took all his research. Dons tin hat and gets back to making his earth battery.....

There are limits as to how small you can print stuff! The one here can do layers 0.1mm thick. As an on track aside, last night I got my lad to copy the reed plate of a harmonica. It's a bit of a challenge we're trying for a lad up the pub. The original brass reeds measure 0.4mm thick so that's no issue to print. We placed the printed reed bed in the real harmonica and could actually get proper notes on the low end but struggled on the high end ones. This was on the blow. Tried a printed reed bed on the draw side and got nothing. What was interesting is that the reeds are slightly raised. We had to print flat then wedge a sliver of paper under the bent reeds to keep them up. We then reheated the reed bed to just above the glass transition temperature of PLA and let it cool. The reeds stayed in the raised position. Of course plastic lacks the tonality of brass but it was good to try.

Impressed you can spell it let alone find it!

If you aren't proficient in CAD / can't draw & model in 3D then you'll initially be limited to printing other people's designs. Many are free, check out Yeggi & Printables for a start: https://www.yeggi.com/ https://www.printables.com/ Cults3D for example has designs you need to pay a small charge for sometimes but then as @SteamyTeasays, you're used to paying for it..... This then seemed apt to start you off: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/ass-penholder

Even with the Adam's apple?

They'll love it, you've only got to leave a 10mm hole somewhere. I'd be most worried about the gap between brick wall and bales.

I presume they burn much better than real slate?

Tbh it's no use you buying a 3D printer, printing filaments are very sensitive to damp atmospheres! 😉

Then you jack up the shed and slide the 7N in their place

Drugs are not the answer! 😤

Yes. You're over thinking it, it's a shed.

You can pause/resume on the Anycubic i3 Mega S. Handy if we have a power cut. It doesn't work though if we have the borosilicate glass on. Resume ignores the Z axis alteration for the glass thickness. The Anycubic Ultrabase is very good.

Go the extra mile! With the X1 you can print exotic filaments like carbon and glass fibre reinforced filaments. It's built tougher than the P1, all metal gears, nozzle geared up for abrasive materials like the above. Out of my price range. I go way back with this lad Andrew and he has the Bambu X1: https://www.crutchworks.com/

No I don't know. Cheap seats / skip diver here.

See we wanted to tinker, learn and do father and son stuff: Made a new base plate for the Anycubic. From this: Yes this: To this: Located the PSU outside the heated enclosure etc, etc. As I don't have a middle name I was considering Faff.

😂 YOU wanted to pay virca £200 and I delivered. @Thorfun's one is twice the price. A £5k Ultimaker S5 is the mutts nuts. Dual extruder to so you could print supports in say PVA (yes PVA glue in filament form) and soak them off in water once printing is completed. Auto bed levelling is fine if you can't use feeler gauges! Honestly that Ender is a great starter printer. Cabinet? Make your own like we have:

The link I pm'd you does it all for you. Just drag the pick points for length, width etc and it'll produce an stl file. Put that into Cura or whatever slicing program to create the G-code for the printer. Merry Christmas Mrs Pocster!

You could buy this. Same model as my lad. It wasn't bad out of the box but we've upgraded it beyond all recognition. Smoother, quieter, more reliable etc. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335060724660? The Anycubic i3 Mega S is I think a cheap clone of the Prusa 3.

Resin yes if you want to print small, intricate parts maybe. Really messy. Requires washing, UV curing etc. You'll sell an Ender FDM printer all day long for near what you paid for it plus it'd be a really great introduction.

PLA easiest to print, the most common etc. Then PETG. ABS and ASA really need an enclosure as a tendency to warp, toxuc fumes etc. TPU if you want to print any rubber products ☺️

With your budget it's got to be a Bambu Lab X1. Super fast.