Onoff

Let's hope Tubbs & Edward next door don't read this forum.

@vfrdave, would a 40mm diamond hole saw be OK? I have 35 and 40 but the 40 is "meatier" hence will I think be easier to drill in the lathe and graft to the Starrett arbour. I'll do them both. The 40 dia is also longer. Don't get your hopes up btw! ? These things are made of some sort of Chinesium! Thinking some more...would this do, 35mm dia carbide edged holesaw on a Starrett arbour (drilled to go over the spindle)? Its one of these: https://www.toolstation.com/tungsten-carbide-grit-holesaw/p73155 This is the Vernier I use. Stainless steel made by Mauser. It's outlasted all my digital ones:

I'll have a look in a bit a what bits I've got here to do this. Too dark to go and borrow the lathe now so hang fire and if its feasible I'll do tomorrow and post Monday.

SWMBO here isn't keen when I play them now tbh and I'm fifty...erm something...

Poor you!

For all of us! ?

Powerchange? Wow, you're posh! ? Measure from face of tile to end of spindle and I'll see if it'll work. I can drill right up the centre of the arbour in the lathe if necessary.

If you can measure the spindle dia accurately (think mine was 9mm from memory) and the diameter you need for the screw in bit I could make something up here and post I'm sure. Got loads of spare arbours and would happily give you one of my diamond hole saws just for the challenge of making it / to see the job done right. Do the cylindrical bits screw on first like this: Then a cover plate pushes on? (Horseshoe of silicone, open at the bottom):

Can't stress the importance of written communication in case things go wrong. Need to grow a thick skin as it won't be the first hurdle. Don't let the project control you. You control the project. Maybe he was going deep so they never found YOUR body! ?

52mm, the original eBay listing text: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Wheel-Bearing-Special-Hub-Nut-Box-Spanner-DEFENDER-DISCOVERY-606435-/130750239660?

Not tricky at all. Email the man you're paying the money to and ask the questions you're worried about.

Man up you English tart! ? Keep calm and carry on. Drink more / worry less.

I feel such an amateur! ? The idea behind all this "faffing" is to be able to remove elements later without breaking the tile: This box spannner's for a Landrover apparently...

I took a Starrett arbour, removed the 1/4" pilot and drilled up the middle so it slipped over the the spindle after measuring the diameter of the spindle with a Vernier: It allowed me to then fit a hole saw and use the spindle in effect where the pilot drill was. Thus the hole drilled was perfectly concentric to the mixer: Thus the mixer fitted perfectly: Appeciate this was in Aqua Panel but you could do the same for drilling the tile but with a grit edged hole saw or ideally diamond edged one.

Steady on now, you don't yet know what the score is floor height wise until you email your builder and he comes back to you. You wouldn't/couldn't just render clay btw.

Old houses often have v.shallow footings if at all in some cases. My place for instance, original circa 1930 footings on the right. Later (early 50s I think) footings on the left.

Standard but the frame doesn't encroach.

Honestly, as a start, improve the lighting on your work area it makes a world of difference. Try and focus it on the weld area. Buy an ESAB Sentinel mask too if you've £200 ish to spare. Just look at the field of vision! You can get it air fed too: Who wouldn't want to look like this?

This: https://migtigarc.co.uk/welding-helmet-magnifying-lens-2250-p.asp

Bit more done. Lost daylight yesterday evening, LED work light packed up etc

Don't forget you can enclose a "plastic" enclosure in a fireproof medium and still comply.

He must ingest quite a few metal fragments the way he keeps drinking bourbon from those jam jars... I believe it's filmed in Mark Harmon's own basement.

What is agreed and shown on the drawings he's working to? Tbh I liked the idea of a step down into an attached workshop. Very Gibbs/NCIS!

It's not all bad there mind:

Email your builder now on the lines of: "Hello, Typical, rain stops after the concrete pour! ? The concrete pour look a little low. Can you confirm the new room floor levels will match the existing and there won't be some big step down. Regards" Put concerns in writing. Don't rely on him being a good bloke and a handshake.