Onoff

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cen-Tec-Systems-Extraction-Compatible-Milwaukee/dp/B084DGYSJW/ref=asc_df_B084DGYSJW/?

+1 for Bedec Barn Paint. 1 coat on softwood and it's "black". 3 coats and it's belt and braces. It just lasts and looks good.

JCB? 👍

What you really want is to live next to a lake... 😉

@Pocster Sound proofing a basement? Btw, how do you overcome cold bridging where the manacle rings are?

I couldn't as that joist above the door slopes in relation to the one I've screwed to aside from being higher. The photos don't do it justice how out everything is. Next I'll drop in some short noggins from above to sit on the plasterboard. From below I'll then wedge the pb level with the door frame, more "in line" than level. That will bend it slightly up making the gap I want to fill slightly less anyway. I'll go back in the loft and screw the noggins in place. Back down and screw the pb up. Finish the pb edge with a bit of 1/2" quadrant pinned on. I wish 🍻, had two coffees then just one pint when finished.

A little job up the pub. After a water leak above the ceiling, in front of the door to the loos it had really sagged. Even before that the door had always caught the ceiling. Yesterday I ripped the knackered ceiling down. Had to then take the door off and a cut a bit off the top to get clearance: A lot of the pipe lagging has gone over the years. Evidence of multiple repairs: Chucked some noggins in, there was just one bit of 4x2 mid span, laid flat. Hoovered all the timber and wood treated the timber as best as: Left like this for now: Thus a "plastering question". There is nothing supporting the edge of the flat board. I'm just going to pin a 1/2" quadrant beading along there and paint black to match the beams. The gap circled though, how to fill? Some sort of plaster, bonding, browning? Intent is to just blend / feather it in. Straight edges aren't critical up here by any means. If it looks "organic" it's no big deal.

It's horses for courses though to some degree. We don't know what the OP wants it for. Knocking up sheds or planters, cutting up pallet wood where you'll likely hit as staple or nail. I wouldn't want to be without my Evo saw. Cutting steel, bricks etc. It does it all to an acceptable degree for what I want.

I have an early, 255mm, Rage 3, sliding mitre saw. The nephews each have later model, 255mm ones that seem more accurate but I don't think it's a wear issue on mine. I think Evolution have improved the design. I don't have mine set up on a bench just grab it, manhandle to where I'm working, the car etc. I then need to set it up every time if I want an exactly square cut. I use one of these: OSALADI Carpentry Angle Ruler Industry Protractor Angle Miter Gauge Miter Angle Finder Metal Stencils Finder Measuring Ruler Goniometer Angle Finder Aluminum Alloy Work Carpenter Magnetic https://amzn.eu/d/fsI2C8O Useful as a periodic checker even if the saw is set up on a bench. It allows a fairly acceptable degree of repeatability for say mitre cuts. My mate has a big DeWalt sliding mitre saw, several hundred Pounds worth. The Evolution and DeWalt are streets apart. He'll do 6" skirting on his and it's perfect. By the same token his can't cut conduit, Unistrut or with a change to the Evo diamond blade, brick slips. Imo the Evo saw is nearer to a rough and ready shed/fence building saw than something a proper chippy would use for say cabinet making.

Evolution for general stuff is fine. The orange not green range. No use for cabinet making, through housings mind mind. Tbh I've never managed to use it successfully for skirting either.

https://youtu.be/9zugv1NdMj4?si=aGuohpMXU_3a48j_

https://renewableheatinghub.co.uk/forums/renewable-heating-air-source-heap-pumps-ashps/flushing-an-ashp-system-and-ufh-questions

Domestic I think calls for safety edges, flashing amber beacon, shouldn't impart more than 400N of force, photocells at two heights etc.

My brick pillars have a 4" box up the middle. The (sliding) gate loads go onto that, not the pillars. I put a buff coloured, silicone joint around the box section gate post so the loads don't transmit to the brick:

I don't think decking would be any good as a driveway surface.

Believe it or not it all works, like via a remote key fob! Of course there's peripheral bits to finish off... Need to come up with a plan for doing the sloping bit of the drive now. How deep a sub base, sub base of what, how to edge by the road, sleepers on edge up the sides maybe? Then block pave, concrete, tarmac etc etc?

Would these give more length? https://www.screwfix.com/p/tesla-brass-compression-adapting-flexible-tap-connectors-15mm-x-1-2-2-pack/2665r

One was the dead spit of you funnily enough...

3D printed tools are very real and practical now. Clutch alignment tool: Subframe alignment pins: Helical milling jig: https://flic.kr/p/2onf1Lz

Let's be honest the bloke was lucky to get out. Probably said he'd forgotten the fan when he was shown into the red room.

Didn't he realise you do only fans?

The mortar collar in your second picture was a very common method. Looking closer at your first picture it appears there's some small bits of stone / aggregate left and the rest has broken away? If you don't want to remove / re-do, then if that's just mortar at the bottom I'd vacuum /scrub/clean it as best as and re-mortar any gaps after wetting with SBR. Then I'd paint with this, maybe even form a little brim at the bottom with tightly wrapped dpc and pour in so it self levels which is one of it's properties. More flexible than a mortar collar I'd reckon. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Gorilla-Black-Waterproof-Coat+Seal---473ml/p/263581

Your correct I think but I've no idea what that existing, leaky "adapter" is that connects the grey 110mm to the clay elbow. Have you a Vernier caliper to give some ideas of diameter? I wonder if this "4VFC2P" would work, as in get rid of the old adapter then fit this with a good slug of CT1 or similar: https://www.drainfast.co.uk/products/underground/drainage/110mm/4110mm-dsocket-clay-plastic-adaptor

A squirt of penetrating oil I'm sure would help whatever, a few days before unscrewing.

Is is external? I had to deal with this. A nice bathroom with new tiles sat straight on top of an old clay elbow: I made a ply template first to drill and neaten the ragged hole in the tile and substrate: Then used a Floplast, finned adapter Screwfix stock number 15330 I think) that went down inside the clay pipe. Found it better oddly that a McAlpine one. Principle is the same for yours. You just need the 110m to finned adapter: I finished off with a really neat bead of BT1 after the last picture. That and actually screwed the pan down properly! For yours maybe this: https://www.wickes.co.uk/FloPlast-110mm-Black-Universal-Pipe-Connector/p/158824