Onoff

I can see sky, I'd rather do it now than the depths of Winter. Sad thing is the garage roof is in better nick than the one on the house! ? Actually I reckon sort this ridge (and hips) and all good. Not sure what the felt is like down at the eaves yet.

My garage roof, never really done anything to it. Felted tiled and battens. Had cause today to go in during a power cut and saw chinks of light right up in the apex. Along the ridge the felt has sagged and fallen in in a few places. Got up there with a halogen lamp. It looks as though the ridge has been covered by a roll's width of felt folded down the middle. So not a big job, straddle the roof, take off the ridge tiles and maybe a couple of rows down including the battens. Before I redo the felt should I maybe "sark" say a foot strip either side of the ridge? I'd set the sarking boards flush with the face of the trusses. Not sure what the norm is! Cheers

Eek! ?

Big mess. I imagine with experience there is a sweet spot that minimises waste. I would, 100%, use a tile levelling / gapping system on the walls and floors next time. If there is a next time. Worst bit of the bathroom both in doing it and how it turned out. I reckon I'd be alright if I was apprenticed to someone for a bit. You can see why bathroom fitters and tilers earn so much! ?

Wrong person to ask mate! ? I seem to remember going OTT with adhesive, notching the wall in one direction then the tile in the other. I was squeezing more adhesive out from the joins than eventually held the tile to the wall! The one thing I forgot was to back butter the tiles when I did the wet room corner. I just notched the floor. (Mind I forgot to add fibres to the slab).

What NOT to do: I should have moved everything up a bit to avoid the silly, time consuming rips at the ceiling. Jury's out for me on putting fittings in one tile. I did for the shower controls. For the flush plate though I didn't. Dead easy to cut 4 squares out (though this 10mm off):

This would have you, no messing.

Paper Towel obviously.

Tbf the "new" brickie/chippy/sparks/roofer/plumber ain't all that... ?

@Nickfromwales will be along shortly. My money is underneath with the flange bedded down on white Sikaflex and a smear on the gasket.

Ever helpful! ? Not my doing! TF the outside is rendered.

Story of your life eh? ? Can you zing a bit off the 2 sides of the slab where it's recessed with a diamond blade?

Never really considered it an issue before but the DPM around a duct where it comes up through a concrete slab? I am, only because of this place where I see people taping their ducts to their DPMs BEFORE pouring their slab. In my situation I've just cored through the corner of my garage floor slab, through the footing bricks and then the mass concrete footings. 65mm dia in excess of 600mm I think. I first drilled just off vertical (there was a good reason), penetrated the DPM then decided to go at more of an angle when it dawned on me these are proper metre deep footings rather than the 250mm 'ish the house sits on in part. Drilling through the house slab when I did my water main was a breeze compared to this! So hole cored and a 63mm dia duct to come up through it. I guess the missing bit of DPM is around 65mm dia and 150mm long. What should I 'fill' it up with in there? Maybe an SBR heavy slurry? Hole top right is the one on the angle that goes all the way through. Lower one on the left is the abandoned hole now filled with drilling slurry. You can just see bits of the torn DPM: Jules Verne would be proud! Or am I destined to forever have a damp spot in this corner? Cheers

Suitably impressed with this Titan in that it cored over 600mm in concrete at 65mm dia. However...no reverse function which is a bit crazy not to have imo. Also it didn't come with a spare set of brushes. Also the front grip is a metal band type that grips rather than locking into notches. You really need that tight as the drill is a potential wrist buster!

Says Buildhub's very own Wonder Woman!

Is it too late to replace one corner post with a steel and have a hidden downpipe? ? I'll get me coat...

This is the Aquaseal kit I used and one of the videos I watched. Paid particular attention to the taping and overlapping thereof. I used x2 7.5m2 kits.

Did your tanking instructions say to do the first coat horizontal, second vertical and so on?

You sure you haven't got a white painted, Welsh holiday cottage?

Picture 3 especially looks like a CAD rendering! ?

Yeah, well I've got real ceramic tiles! ? Just tape down onto the tray edge as you would the floor then tank? That and clear CT1 later, where the tiles meet the tray, ain't nuffink getting thru! Guessing you might need to mask up the tray...

Does that include your imaginary friend? The "flaps" on my wall drain get stuck down to the concrete and Aquapanel then the while lot tanked.

The (blue) tanking needs to be continuous. I think the theory is that you should also use the tanking tape at any change in materials say where mrpb meets the concrete floor etc. Guess you primed like mine before applying the tanking liquid? You then prime again with tile primer (over the blue) before applying the tile adhesive. Wotsit to a blanket!

Right, let's see if I can kill this!

Was a decoupling mat like Ditra used originally?