Onoff

At the end of the day it's what makes you tick and makes you HAPPY! Kudos. I was told to get an Impey wet room former. I didn't and got loads of satisfaction out of making my own former. (Best bit of tiling in the bathroom but that's another story). I researched it and came up with a freaky concrete mix that worked. What a lot of work my wall drain was. I LIKE IT. I build a solar water heater from scrap yet some derided it. No arguing with the temperatures it achieved. You're going to drown in your own leaky basement but it'll be all your own work! ?

You could consider some secondhand acoustic tiles to line the cupboard. Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Acoustic-Panels-soundproofing-tiles-30x30-cms/114469750240?hash=item1aa6edc5e0%3Ag%3AcBkAAOSw~gxfjCBC&LH_ItemCondition=3000

That's my old fridge I scrapped with TESLA Photoshopped on!

Still mulling a car port. Funds don't allow at the moment but I'm thinking ahead. I'm currently digging (by hand), a 13m trench from my garage to gate post, 600mm deep and the width of a mattock at the bottom. Into that will go some heavy duty DNO type ducting. The thing is, if I were to do a car port I'm guessing that at 6m x 6m I'd have 6 posts, maybe 8. Wondering if it's worth digging out for then pouring in 6/8 mass concrete "cubes". Later I could simply drill and fix the car port leg feet to these pads. To dig for the bases later I'd risk hitting the duct when digging. One option, but I imagine they wouldn't be big enough, is to dig post holes with the auger bit on a pto. Think the Bil's auger is about 12" dia.

That £200K you lost to that Nigerian scam was just loose change wasn't it?

That's the spirit.

I'd set up a powerful, wall mounted fan, on my house in direct line of sight to his extract. Job done. There was a building back in Hong Kong in the 80's, Standard, see through, curtain wall glass. A new skyscraper of a rival company went up opposite with architectural features resembling arrows on the facade this was all about Feng Shui. The new build deliberately presented an "aggressive" face to the one opposite. The original build commissioned a retro fit on that facade of mirrored glass to project the negative energy back.

https://www.laddersukdirect.co.uk/latest-news/post/how-to-use-a-roof-ladder & https://www.ladderstore.com/blog/why-do-i-need-a-roof-ladder

I'd best dismantle the kids sandpit then!

Good old fashioned railway sleepers make a good shed greenhouse base. I believe they were steeped in vats of proper creosote.

Looks like Dexter's workshop.

Tell him he reached that trigger point a long time ago but like another idiot close to me just won't give up...

You've a vote for the Cuprinol Garden Shades above. I've then used Cuprinol non slip deck stain and it really does what it says on the tin. Reckon you'd be safe with the Ducks Back.

A rather fetching little Golden Ale number here from the Harper's Brewing Co. in Co. Kildare.

I'm missing An Officer And A Gentleman for this! So I countersunk the fitting: Olive fits in the chamfered end a treat: A bit of Jet Blue Plus to lube things up. I'd need to take the burr off created by the countersinking so the pipe goes in further: Imho it works. Didn't go OTT with tightening the nut but it definitely squeezes the olive into the pipe. I'd risk it: (No I don't have a life ?)

See, this is what happens when the kids are left unsupervised! Surely the olive would tighten onto the pipe to stop it popping apart? Aware it's flat, I'd have countersunk the face anyway to take the olive.

On the back of Covid quite a few companies have seen a sudden increase of work after the lull. It's meant in some cases them having to sub out and by contrast not sometimes being able to get their favoured (read good) subbies in the first place.

OK 15mm pipe goes into the cranked fitting by a country mile: I could probably countersink the end a bit to make a seat for the olive. So it'd look something like this. Back of nut against the tiles. You'd lose that square plate brass backing plate thing: Next, found in the "this is going down the tip unless I can find a hoarder to take it box" kindly donated by @PeterStarck: What are these btw Peter? Ending up something like this: Might need a good dose of silicone to fill the gap: Bits in the post if you want to have a play. Edit: Sorry about the photo quality.

Hmmm...what if you were to ditch the silver bit with the spanner flats on. Then put a 1/2" nut over the pipe, olive then the cranked adapter. Would the cover plates that go over the 3/4" end of the cranked bit be deep enough to hide your faux pas? @Nickfromwales!!!!

Those cranked things are meant to work like this as @ProDave said:

I reckon you'll need a mixer with adjustable centres like this: https://www.notjusttaps.co.uk/versatile-manual-shower-valve-adjustable-centres.html

If it had said "Glassfiber" I'd have been worried about their attention to detail...

You ideally want to keep any wood of the shed 6" above the surrounding ground. Treat the Hell out of the bearers. The age old and tbh accepted premise is that a raindrop bounces 6" up in the air. You can mitigate the lack of 6" to some extent by painting the bottom timbers of the shed with a black bitumen paint. Can look quite good tbh. Deffo dpc strips above and below the bearers.

Just screw a round in and Easifill. You'll have it done and painted before SWMBO gets back and she'll be none the wiser! ?

Mains pressure shower I guess is a good way too, either via TS or UVC but they have their own issues.