Onoff

I didn't even think to look if these 2 22mm ball valves I've introduced into the single pipe system are full bore...

Just looked. Not one too close but seems they deliver. Thinking about the works one it's only going to cost me fuel for a 50mile round trip and I can keep it for as long as I need probably. Just need to collect before 07.00 or after 22.00 due to the Congestion Charge. Might even be able to wangle one of the works vans to do it one way.

PM me your address and I'll send you some rubbish and recycling sacks!

Use proper MDF primer. It's really good. SWMBO has always insisted I paint anything with it before bringing into the house. Worries over the dust being a carcinogen etc. SF used to do their own No Nonsense one which was good: https://www.screwfix.com/p/leyland-trade-mdf-primer-750ml/222FG? Bedside computer table for my lad out of an old office chair and scrap MDF:

Understood. I see HSS were doing the kit for £76 for the first day. As I said above I think work may have one. The upstairs 4 rads are on their own flow and return circuit. I suppose for the rads on the single pipe system the best solution is take them off one at a time and flush through with a hose in the garden then? As an aside if, in the single pipe running below each rad, there was an isolation valve, would that force "cleaner" through just the rad? Typical old rad. Flow is right to left. Interesting how "hot" comes in at the top on the right and out at the bottom in the left. Did half wonder if the flow is in the right direction! Swept tees too, I imagine to aid the flow in/out. Into the top of the rad, flow right to left: Out at the bottom of the rad, flow right to left: Sometime the single pipe goes through the skirting / wall like in the first photo. Elsewhere it goes down through the floorboards. Puts the (possibly) lowest point under the suspended floor somewhere. Inaccessible without a major room clear out. I bet that's sludgy there!

We have hot downstairs rads...eventually. Obviously not the one I broke the bleed screw off on. Video of the Grundfoss 15-50 130 pump I took out (25-60 130 now fitted):

Stuck 2L of Sentinel X400 over the course of the evening in 6 doses. Every time the magnet is coated in crud. Leaving the last lot in to circulate. Next weekend I'll drain down again at least and fit the new rad and pump valves, Thinking to build flushing rig. Looks easy enough. Saying that I might be able to borrow one from work possibly...

Just undone the IntaKlean and the crud is impressive. Lots of visuble, ferrous debris encased in a black sludge. The mesh case surrounding it was pretty grubby as well: Added half of the first litre of Sentinel X400. I'll let that run round for a bit and add some more!

New pump fitted! That was easy. With the old pump removed I took the silver screw out and rotated the shaft. Tbh it feels perfect. Looking down the end of the pump and I can see the impeller. Looks intact. Really thinking this is just grot in the system. As evidenced by some of the crap in the bottom of the bowl next to the old pump lid. Very, very black and rusty/ferrous: Thinking the original pump might in fact be OK. Still no heat downstairs mind. Off to bleed again.

You pi$$ed yet? I just bought a crate of 12 something from Aldi to drown my sorrows! Though I defer to your wisdom, struggling to see how pump was working but not now with what I've done (as is SWMBO ?). Was it on the brink? Why now, all of a sudden, just interested. Hoping against hope but could it just be fighting all the crud in the system? If no then this is the existing pump (I have to bend double to take this): I do have this pump you pointed me at years ago and has sat here doing nothing. Straight swap? Cheers (I've taken a video clip with sound of the existing pump working on all 3 positions. Waiting for it to upload).

I meant just chop off with the saw set at 45deg:

I'd end it like that but put a 45deg chamfer on it.

Well...no leak at the was soldered ) now compression joint at the boiler but... Years ago I put a ball valve after the downstairs 2 port valve up in the loft. That's got a weep. I only used tape on the olives there. Jet Blue Plus would sort it. Might be able to do in situ without draining down and just some isolation here and there: Then on the return from the coil on the bottom of the HWC there's a "balancing", gate valve. Doesn't look well: One of the existing pump valves had a weep, backed the nut off and packed with Jet Blue Plus. Seems to have worked. The pump though is for want of a better word, "hunting". Not a nice steady whirr. Sort of goes, vroom, vroom, vroom about 2 ) 3 times a second. On speed 3, the highest. Out of 8 downstairs rads, all singles, 2 I can't bleed. One of them I can't get to for junk. The second is the one I sheared the bleed valve off of. Of the 4 upstairs rads all doubles; 2 I can bleed properly. One I can only bleed half of one double. On that and the fourth double, the rad key just slips on both rads. Going to try some new rad keys. Sods Law the new pump valves have just arrived! ? I have at least some heat upstairs bar the rads I can't bleed. Struggling though to get heat downstairs at the mo. Single 22mm pipe is hot to nearly the first rad. Blockage? Anything to do with these 2 new 22mm ball valves I've put in? Let's be honest here it all needs ripping out and renewing!

& refill...

Flux on both. It didn't seem to run round the joints as well as I've had it go before. Some water in the horizontal pipe anyway that comes out periodically. Going compression now. Need it going anyway. All needing showers!

Bollicks! Leak on the 28mm soldered elbow! Maybe swap out for a compression? Drain down time again! ?

Radiator is quite old I guess. Overall size 945x530 nom. Just over 920mm between valve faces:

@Nickfromwales, are these Easibleed screws any good for where there's a snapped off bleed screw? https://easibleed.co.uk/

Giving up for tonight. More bleeding tomorrow...or should I say today...

Quarter to twelve and still filling... slowly...very slowly... Think I mentioned before a mate has access to a "power flushing rig". Worth a go?

22mm copper drops vertically from the header tank and tees into the horizontal 28mm after the air separator and before the pump. The pipe from the F&E has the 3 bits if yellow tape on. Would the 8bar outside tap do? ?

Taking an age to refill. I can can hear "glugging". Not getting much air from the rads either upstairs or downstairs. I get a bit but then it stops. Put the screw back and come back 20 mins later then some more air. Sofa time for a couple more chapters on Steve Jobs methinks.

Enough room for the back legs is there?

Ta. About to start refilling now.

I reckon so. Ended up changing the drain cock "live" so to speak. Had the new one all ready to go and taped up. Got a big slug of black water come out but swapped over with not too much mess/bother. In other news...started late today and still doing it. Stopped for beer and a browse. Fitted the IntaKlean. Somehow I managed to get the 28mm / 1" elbow into the boiler and an elbow soldered in situ. I just sort of turned the elbow into it's final position making sure not to turn it back. Tightening that compression and something went "bang". Backed the nut off and found a couple of strands of brass thread. Fingers crossed its OK. Lashings of Jet Blue Plus. Hoping too my soldering is OK. Used Templars flux, lead free solder and the blue gas bottle not the MAPP: Should make it easier for boxing in: The one downstairs drain cock on the old single pipe system under the suspended floor was seized solid. New one fitted. Bit of garden hose runs under the floor and through a hole drilled in the wall onto a flower bed. The two original 22mm compressions, I just backed off, removed the PTFE tape and smeared with Jet Blue Plus then re tightened (same olives). I then isolated the length of plastic 22mm in the stairs room with a valve either end in the hall/adjacent room. This the pipe I hope to tap off for for my UFH manifold. Water everywhere in the old boot room (now study) despite the downstairs single pipe system being nominally "empty". The pipe runs and floors are at various different levels. Wasn't too fussed about letting it drain under the suspended floors tbh. I need the wet vac here, just wax building paper on concrete floor of the old boot room: One git is that I broke off the square bleed screw head on one old downstairs radiator and it only has the one. Tried tapping it round with a hammer and punch but no joy. It broke off I think before it started undoing. just in case it has loosened I smeared some CT1 over it. Going to be a bitch if not impossible to bleed I imagine. Might be easier to change the rad? Going to have dinner then see about starting to refill and add the cleaner via the IntaKlean. I assume as the system is empty I can just pour 2L of cleaner I have in via the IntaKlean then top up from the header and bleed? The two 2 port and the single mid position valves are all set on MAN at the mo. I think you leave it like that whilst refilling and before firing the boiler up? Or should I maybe re fill and bleed, checking I've no leaks and only thereafter add the cleaner? Cheers