Onoff

Thanks. 3 speed I think. Any particular reason why it would suddenly become noisier after never having been?

Creak? A fixing issue, something loose? The frame side of my install doesn't make a sound. The soft close seat is though on a bit tight I think and creaks a bit opening and closing. Keep meaning to strip and smear some silicone grease in there.

B@llocks! When the CH is on its like there's a little tune being played in the pipework, a regular tappity tap noise. Guessing the Grundfoss pump? Of course the valves either side are all crudded up! ?

So SWMBO here tells me! ? Seriously, we were only yesterday discussing how good the combo of the Geberit frame and Bernstein, wall mount rimless pan here is. (This on the back of the upstairs ensuite WC with old school cistern & floor mount pan that seems to have a little leak somewhere).

We've been doing similar "stud anchor" plinths in my game up on roofs for the last 70 years to keep cranes and window cleaning rigs on roofs. I did similar for the kid's "treehouse" base here (no tree). If in uplift then the studs and plates get connected back to the slab reinforcing steel or go through the slab and are plated underneath. (Sometimes resin or expanding anchors into the slab are used). The big difference is our studs are stainless steel. We also take great care to seal up where the stud enters the concrete block. The tops of our plinths are min. 150mm off the finished roof and lead capped. Pre 1981 when our BS made st/st a requirement many installs used plain steel. The necking/waisting where water has got in, sat and rotted the stud but below the line of sight, has to be seen to be believed. Bottom line is a lot of people have really nice garden rooms by the looks of it even if some of us might do it different on here.

I feel like I should have done a practice bathroom first! ? Learnt loads mind. I remember being just really unsure about the tiling. Worst job of the whole bathroom refurb for me. How quick will this stuff set I was thinking and rushing it. I put too much adhesive on for a start and got in a right mess. I should have relaxed, stood back and viewed the bigger picture. What about a really contrasting grout...like black to take the eye off the offset grout lines?

In all seriousness I found it hugely annoying to look back and see some of my grout lines. Htf did I miss and not correct them? Inexperience I'm sure. At least you used a tile levelling system!

I'm just going to leave this here: Delicious, just delicious! ?

His steel isn't set in concrete! ? Steel set in concrete can rust but it's to what degree. It's why all the concrete art deco buildings had issues. You can (and should) mitigate this of course. A little rust won't hurt. As I understand it concrete is initially a protective alkaline medium but over time can turn acidic and affect the steel. Of course what he's done will work fine, nobody said it wouldn't. It's just people's perception of what is attention to detail. I wouldn't cut a through housing with a chainsaw for instance. I just wouldn't, it offends me. Overall I liked his video, seemed honest about what he's doing even if not all his watchers agree on a few points. Having to point out to his worker to double nail the 5x4 roof joists make you wonder if they would have if he wasn't around. His acceptance of cold bridging through the joists...why not mitigate than in the walls and at the sole plate junction? Comparing the hybrid roof to a SIPS panel and saying they'll be no gap because the PIR is pushed tight against the OSB3 roof...hmmm. Doesn't need to be much of a gap to get moisture there.

Now put the laser line vertically! ?

Watching it now. He's a bit rough imo. Those off cuts of channels for shoes to support the base will just rust to Hell. No washer under the nut holding it all down either. For me what you don't see is just as important. PIR between joists so nice cold bridging. Constant product placement too. Like he's Colin Furze! ?. I'd make a neater job. Good luck to him mind doing the videos. (That Amy can come and help do mine anytime).

I'm filling in and not going to yet worry about car port plinths. When I started to dig my trench I first had to remove a poorly laid line of block paving bedded on a very weak mix. They all came out, more lifted tbh, easily and clean. This paving line sort of defined the edge of the drive. The rest of the drive comprises fairly compact small black stones & bits of "tar", some quite large as in fist size. Think of a load of rejected road materials having been dumped and flattened out. It's definitely not tarmac that's broken up over the years. The worst of it is the rusty nails that's meant many a punctured tyre over the years! The previous owner would it appears empty his wood boiler ash pan on the drive, the ash to fill in the rough drive surface. Now I'm filling the trench in I'm wondering whether to maybe stop 6" short of the surface and fill with Type 1. My worry is if I just fill with the excavated clay/soil, when it gets really wet down here this winter I'll just be churning a rut in the trench line everytime we drive over it. Filling in today, only thing I have to compact the dirt as I go is a 16lb sledge hammer used as a tamper. The trench at its narrowest is only about 4" wide, the width of a mattock blade.

Got a link to the video?

We had a Merri-Mix rather than a Soda Stream. Mate's dad was an engineer at the local Schweppes factory and would bring home gallon cans of the base "syrup". So strong neat that we'd clean up all our loose change. Leave in there too long and the heads and tails would disappear and the dog would get a new tag for his collar. Might explain all my fillings too... Saying that I'm pretty sure plain carbonated water isn't that good for teeth.

Hopefully fitting the Intaklean, new boiler drain and shifting the boiler pipe this week. Whilst it's all drained down I'm wondering whether I should fit a 22mm ball valve each end of the white plastic pipe that lies just under the floor and that I'll be tapping off of later. This end and the other is copper.

Except I forgot to suggest B&Q! 2.4m cut lengths should fit in @zoothorn's Golf no problem.

Tin foil is good for masking when painting awkward areas. Slip a sheet behind the pipes to protect the wall. Bring out across the floor. Get brush, paint. You could get a local place to cut up day an 8x4 sheet of 18mm MDF into 7 or 8" or whatever wide strips. Bring it home and route a fancy corner along one edge

Just cast them level and solid. Drill and resin fix to suit later on. Some form of U channel to take chunky wooden posts.

Look on the bright side, you'll soon have a half Welsh sibling to assist in your DIY endeavours! ?

Got my duct in. Nom. 600mm deep trench, 60mm duct. Need to decide now on whether to put in bases for the future car port. Maybe I make some sacrificial OSB boxes and set them level. Thinking 600mm cubes.

That reads right to me, as I'm sure @Nickfromwales has said. 21A means seal between wall and channel. That's all you do inside.

You can get 6" skirting.

You can powder coat MDF.

I don't have much experience of upvc tbh. Used some white years ago (10+) from Eurocell then this black stuff just now. Again from Eurocell but imho the quality now is so much better. Denser, cuts like a dream with a sharp handsaw and the black graining effect is excellent. Got a couple of metres left if anyone wants a sample piece. (Have considered redoing all the fascias and soffits here in black but for one it's twice the price of white and secondly I want to change the whole roof anyway).

Header is irrelevant? How so when you've just made a big song and dance about my suggestion of using 6mm ply instead? Make your mind up or if you've a problem with me then say so.