Onoff

https://www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk/external-doors/hemlock-external-doors/2xg-hemlock-unglazed/1981x686x44-2xg-hemlock-unglazed-external-door

Afternoon, Anyone help in identifying this PCB transformer make /spec? Other than it has a 220VAC primary originally. It's a bit cooked. I've Googled etc but drawn a blank. There's a label says 010921 420461.  Then one side is screen printed: DT-4362-1 3323012 18/04/01 Cheers

Zoot, have you got any South facing windows / walls that get good Sun, even in winter?

Northern pu$$y! ?

Made of tough stuff down here, we are! Kids are as skinny as rakes, probably 'cos they're always shivering! ?

Nothing like coming in from work for a shower in a nice warm bathroom... apparently! ?

See how long it takes to fill an X litre container and work out the litres per minute. Bigger container is going to be more accurate. Do it a few times to get an average.

I understand that fully...which is a first! ? Sounds like a plan! When fitting your plant ons, don't bang the panel pins all the way in to start off with. This way you can just sit them on with the pins banged in ever so slightly. Makes it easy to remove and reposition.

What's wrong with metal coat hangers? They make excellent cavity ties! ?

I'm losing it clearly! ?

@zoothorn, cracking job and duly liked. Can I ask why the hinges are going on the 20mm door and not the 25mm ledges like this one? I'm not 100% sure what way your door is opening, into your new room like this one? Or is it that you come out of the new room, up the couple of steps then the door opens into the old room with the hinges on the left? I tend to draw a light centreline on the ledge and fit the hinges to the ledges first. Then prop/wedge the door in the hole and mark where the hinges go onto the jam. (I could have sworn I posted this exact same question and picture in here the other day. If the mods took it down...why? Could well be me, not been a good week and heads all over the place).

If you recall one of your other threads we said to close your door then plant the door strips on using 1mm packers between them and the face of the door. When you prime & paint it'll take up that 1mm gap.

How confused? A room with a towel rail in and a UFH loop under the floor. In the next room the old fashioned single pipe system passes across, buried in the floor. There is no return per se. The UFH loop would be too hot surely? Risk of cracking the floor tiles maybe?

Dig another hole next to it? ? I'm afraid sleep is eluding me at the moment.

@JFDIY, ref your question on my other thread why I can't connect my bathroom up. In the bathroom I have a UFH loop and a towel rail both run in 16mm PEX-AL-PEX. The tails run out into the adjacent "stairs" room. Unconnected as yet! The stairs room floor is coming up and being dug down to have insulation underneath. The rough plan is to feed a buffer tank and have a UFH manifold in the stairs room. This manifold (pretty much central to the house) will feed out to UFH loops in other rooms. All I have in terms of an existing CH system to tap into is a 3/4" nominal bore, single pipe system, (so no flow and return). I've recently put a ball valve both ends of the run I'm going to tap into. Quite where I go from here is still up for discussion! ? If it was up to me I'd have dug the floor up/down by now but SWMBO vetoed it for the moment. Just sitting here on the vodka again and seriously wondering at the feasibility of digging down and having the buffer tank under the floor.....

What the inventor(s)?

Yarp

If you're going to paint the door then just fill the holes with a stiff PVA/sawdust mix and sand when dry. Even if staining it then uniform screw holes, filled with ordinary filler can make neat little contrasting points of interest. This set of plug cutters came from Lidl, cuts 6, 10, 13 & 16mm plugs. Tbh I've never even opened them. Under a fiver from memory but a while back.

SWMBO's wanting the old en suite shower working again as it's so bloody cold in the main bathroom sans heating! First thing is shift all the tools I've got stored in there. Can't see the issue myself! ? Knocked up a couple of shelf units that'll take the upcycled oil containers. They'll either stand upright or attach horizontally to the rafters in the garage. Scored some freebie ply strips pre cut at 220mm. A sanding and some wood stain will make it a bit prettier. ...and back to the en suite! ?

Aside from accessing valves etc it comes in dead handy for whacking holes in to drop rat poison under the suspended floor here!

Or indeed the batten option:

Super Rod Cavity Master is an option. Basically a modified Starrett that cuts a shoulder. I've only ever used the steel drop in plates in t&g flooring. You can also use the mesh infills you plaster over. https://youtu.be/VLJZxG4FyaE

190mm for £7: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110-200mm-Bi-Metal-M42-HSS-Hole-Saw-Cutter-Drill-Bit-For-Aluminum-Iron-Pipe-Wood/264636749412?

Did I, remind me which post?

I too used a second BT Home Hub as a wireless extender. It's not plug and play mind with some setting up. Though I don't like BG stuff, (British General.....British my ar$e) would one of these do: https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-900-series-13a-2-gang-sp-switched-wi-fi-extender-socket-2-1a-1-outlet-usb-charger-white/8865V? Instructions below. Just replace a double socket arounf halfway between your router and dead zone. pa_1866053.pdf