Onoff

@MikeSharp01, what scrap did you weigh in?

Didn't know that one, thanks, Riverhead Tesco's? I'll swing by and have a look. Do you have to set up an account so it's all traceable? Last time I weighed scrap in was 30 years ago when I lived/worked in Dartford. There's is / was a scrappy just up from TLC at Pembury I've kept meaning to call in at for years now. Edit: Just googled that scrappy, must have driven past hundreds of times! ?

Does the price vary as to whether it's "clean" or not? I've heard the term "bright". I've a quantity of copper pipe, some bits are gloss painted. Also various bits of lead flashing some with paint, silicone remnants on.

Bring Me To Life? Great tune.

Over length and do a "MUP" cut on site as our SOUTHERN engineers used to call it. Make up cut. Simples. They'd write on a survey drawing what holes they wanted one end and write "MUP" next to the blank end. Now the Wigan lads would write "FFC" referred to as a "funnnyfutcut". Intrigued I asked... "Well, it's a funny f***er to cut".

It'll be fine. A good heavy snowfall one year will test your brackets! ? I'd not fix to the t&g roofing but the long edge bits as aforementioned.

The plan has merit... A little fettling required. It'll be accurate enough for a pier cap!

Lucky buggers! 45x95 here... Constructional untreated regularised £2.96/m, Constructional planed regularised, treated - £3.13/m. Premium planed...£7.78/m Pi$$ take.

As @TonyT suggested: https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-machine-thread-to-wood-thread-dowel-screws-m8-x-x-75mm-10-pack/7618H? You could use screws and keyhole slot the bracket for instance...coach screws too, an option. Can't be ar$ed sketching it and it'd be too much for you to contemplate...so won't!

More reading: https://professional-electrician.com/technical/selecting-and-installing-earth-electrodes/

Boil in water and vinegar or water and bicarb. The heat softens the paint and the bubbly action loosens / shifts it...maybe.

If that 285 Ohm reading is recent it might be way high in Summer once (if ?) the ground dries out. 500mm of soil isn't much. Try the bfo flattened HW cylinder if you can get one...and flatten it...loads of area on that.

I was just pointing out ref the scaffold pole, don't do that. If you're going to dig the flower bed up then lay a proper earth tape.

One option is bentonite but that can shrink. You can buy moisture retentive clay to go over the top. Marconite is electrically conductive gravel. Some you just mix with cement. Then there's even more exotic conductive cement that in effect increases the rod diameter thus surface area. A bit ott for domestic. Not a bad shout if ever you have piles done to do an extra one for a deep rod. Saying that a mate's concession to earthing at his workshop is the earth conductor affixed by a pair of old mole grips on a scaffold tube banged into the ground! ?

Make sure your rod connections are clean and accessible. Tighten up and give a coat of something if fussy. Grease, Vaseline etc. A bit like when keeping car battery terminals in good nick. You can get earth inspection pits. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLPT205.html? https://www.toolstation.com/earth-pit-plastic/p15291?

Not sure what the question is tbh but... Erm...I have no screed. For the main floor area it's concrete (20mm ballast) laid and tamped using screed rails screwed to the walls. The wet room corner is a different concrete mix using 10mm pea shingle, sharp sand, cement and heavy on the SBR. The A142 mesh runs across the whole floor. The main floor concrete is laid on Polypanels which have the UFH pipes clipped into them. The wet room corner is full depth concrete. Under the (blue) DPM is the pir insulation layer (150mm).

Where the end brackets going there are no walls ?

How hard has he tried? Seriously. Every electrode will likely have a resistance to earth even if really high. If you can't get depth then put more in, go horizontal etc. Double up, triple up whatever and the resistance should lower.

Fair shout. You'll have to give him a picture though! @zoothorn, how about this, no screws for the most part, or the brackets even. Just make a pattern from card then transfer to some 2" timber. The ones against the wall should just slide wedge in there - no screws. You will need screws at the front overhang where there are no walls:

Nope. My shower waste is a bit unconventional as in the wall anyway not the floor. The trap has a bit of insulation in the form of the perimeter strip: Tbh the shower gets that much use the trap will never dry out.

At the front won't that block be fixing to thin air? Until he draws what he's got we won't know. Doable either at an angle or with a right angled drill attachment. Hold up Zoot I've an idea you might like, will sketch in a minute.

You have to be adaptable...and adapt what you have when you live in the cheap seats(like we do)! You could..... Run a continuous length of timber up underneath the roof overhang and affix your brackets to that. Something like: Just remember, you can do it, you're a winner!

I THINK his detail is like this...

You might glean something from this: https://www.electrical-installation.org/enwiki/Installation_and_measurements_of_earth_electrodes

Multiple rods to get the reading down, correctly spaced (there are guidelines)...or a copper earth tape in a long trench...or a bfo copper earth plate like an old HW cylinder run over a few times with the digger... ? Nothing to stop you combining the above. Increase the surface area of copper to earth is the key. (Dungeness power station had similar issues. They basically built it on a big metal mat).