Onoff

That folded back neutral, sat against the terminal... Can't get much "looser" than that. The epitome of a high resistance joint. I would have expected to see it seriously burnt and crispy. But it's not...doesn't add up. I had some MK light switches that were terrible for binding up.

But hot to trot I bet! 😉

Fixed it by fitting a non return valve where the red dot is. I need at some point to ditch the dead end mind.

I'm not sure but think there's something about an SBR mix drying quicker than a mix without? Edit: As in it's not useable for as long

Some interesting mix info here ref using SBR: "P.R. EPOXY - SBR POLYMER SYSTEM TECHNICAL DATA SHEET USES. P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System is used for screeds, floor repairs, waterproof renders, waterproof fine concretes and bonding. DESCRIPTION P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System has been formulated to enhance the physical and chemical properties of cement mortars and concretes. It is compatible with most forms of cement, sands and aggregates. Together with the cement, it forms a powerful adhesive to bond the aggregates together, producing a tougher, waterproof and more impact and abrasion resistant floor, repair mix, render or bonding primer. PROPERTIES The properties of the cured mix will vary depending on the type of cement, sand and aggregates used. COMPRESSION AGE. N/mm² 1 day 14 – 18 28 days 40 – 50 (Strength is dependent on mix design) PREPARATION Surfaces to which P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System mixes are to be applied must be clean, strong and free from oil, grease and with a rough profile. Best preparation is with a scabbler or power washer. If metal surfaces area to be covered they must be rust free and wire brushed or grit blasted. Cement based substrates must be damped with clean water and excess water removed. A primer coat of 1:1 P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System/cement is brush applied to the prepared surface. Refer to relevant standards and codes of practice. MIXING & APPLICATION Hand mix or use a forced action mixer. The components of the selected mix are measured by weight or volume and dry mixed. The P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System and water is added to give the desired consistency. In an efficient mechanical mixer, mixing should continue for 2-3 minutes. When hand mixing, mix the cement, aggregate and sand dry then add sufficient of the P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System/water until a homogeneous consistency is achieved. The mixed mortar is applied to the prepared and primed surface whilst the primer is still wet/tacky, using conventional screeding, rendering and concreting techniques. Apply as required on to wet or tacky primer, compact well and finish. If the primer dries, crosshatch scratch and reapply. If necessary apply mortar in multiple layers to achieve total thickness, priming between layers with P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System :cement primer. STORAGE P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System must be stored unopened in dry warehouse conditions between +5°C and 25°C and out of direct heat and sunlight. In these conditions P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System should have a shelf life of approximately 12 months. PACKAGING P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System is available in 5, 25 and 240.0litre containers. HEALTH & SAFETY There are no emissions of noxious or offensive fumes, P.R. Epoxy - SBR Polymer System is alkaline when mixed with cement and sand; do not allow prolonged contact with skin. Health & Safety information is available. OTHER INFORMATION Mix Design’s 1. Floor Screeding and Screed Repair (min. 6mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 150kg medium sand 2.5 pbv 10 litres SBR (1:1 SBR:water 9 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.1m³ 2. Heavy duty floor toppings (min. 12mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 75kg medium sand 1.25 pbv 75kg 6-3mm grano chips 1.25 pbv 10 litres SBR (1:1 SBR:water 9 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.11m³ 3. Waterproof Renders (min.6mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 125kg medium sand 2 pbv 10 litres SBR (1:1 SBR:water 9 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.1m³ 4. Water Resistant Concrete (min.25mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv cement 100kg medium sand 1.5 pbv 100kg 10-5mm pea shingle 1.5 pbv 5 litres SBR (1:3 SBR:water 13 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.14m³ 5. Bonding Screeds, Plaster, New Concrete to Old by weight by volume 1kg cement 1 pbv cement 1 litre SBR 1 pbv SBR Yield approx 3-4m² per litre 6. Floating Screeds (min. 38mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv 150kg medium sand 2.5 pbv 4.5litres SBR (1:3 SBR:water 13.5 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.1m³ • * = add to working consistency. • All sands must be medium grade sharp. • Aggregates must be clean, well graded and not “to dust”. All P.R. Epoxy Systems products’ are manufactured to a high standard of quality. Whilst we aim to ensure that any advice, information or recommendations given are reliable and correct, the Company cannot accept any liability directly or indirectly arising from the use of its products, as we have no direct or continuous control over where or how its products are applied. No undertaking can be given against infringement of any patented processes."

I considered sand and cement screed but in the end I did 100 mm wet concrete with A142 mesh in. Wetted with Everbuild Waterproofing additive. I levelled it using screed rails.

Buy more black stuff!

Print one in TPU.

Pooling water will find the weak point. If you can get rid of it, as the low point is "filling up", it can only help. In winter water can expand in a crack making it bigger.

A water cooler, filing cabinets and a fax machine would complete the retro look. Maybe a prominent fire exit sign too?

I see the kneeling pad's getting some use still.

You know it! 😉

Sort that crack which has the veg growing in it! Rake it out, vac / clean etc.

+1 😃 Though I do know a drawist type who knows their ways and has a successful track record of dealing with them successfully.

What about the other sides of this concrete column? Get in there with a thin vacuum nozzle. Get it as clean as then flood with the black stuff? Difficult to see without a bigger picture but I appreciate you don't want the BAU to know where you are...

So essentially permeable? Just sloshing blackjack esque stuff over the join between that and something more solid, I wouldn't get my hopes up.

Was is this "rough ground" made of?

A rough substrate is no issue. More so if it's loose and bitty.

It says for professional use. You need to take it back.

The liquid rubber will stick to both substrates and hopefully allow a flexible joint. The surfaces want to be clean as in vacuum job I would and maybe a wash / dry beforehand.

So you have proper, traditional, hot laid asphalt? Anything else is not asphalt. Atop that a membrane then sand bedded pavers? Looks like green mineral roofing felt in earlier pics with all the nasty associated joints, laps, folds and seams. Pay particular attention where it laps up any walls etc. Hot laid asphalt is great and forms a homogenous layer even on upstands where you incorporate fillets. Until of course it cracks. I'd assume the flat areas are ok and focus on the bold highlighted bits.

Make sure you ram it into any deep / tight cracks.

Um... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Resincoat-Waterproof-Technology-Long-term-Performance/dp/B096BK1127?

Just paint the lot with a flexible bituminous paint, concrete, felt, overlaps etc. You've too many maybe points so "tank" the lot I would.