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Everything posted by Onoff
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Nice to see a tidy site. Never been a fan of those trainer style safety boots though.
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The balustrade will bend to suit, don't sweat it. Other than that you'll need to jack between the bottom of the stringers.
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This is @pocster we're talking about so I doubt it very much.
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Don't faff around, go buy some HsCo cobalt Starrett pilot drills. My go-to for drilling "metal" whether it be ali, mild or stainless. https://www.screwfix.com/p/starrett-a014c-pilot-drill/39752? Bosch do a quick change version. Careful as they do an HSS-G version too. https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-hex-shank-powerchange-hss-cobalt-pilot-drill-/52111? Get some cutting compound too: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CT-90-Cutting-Tapping-drip-compound/dp/B005EF7W0C/ref=asc_df_B005EF7W0C/? RTD and Trefolex, Temaxol are other brands. Oh, and centre punch where you're drilling too.
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Contiboard?
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Could have simply been a weak mix (too much sand) or the weather has gotten at it, or the base wasn't properly cleaned and it didn't adhere. Or a combination of all 3. I know people who will chuck in one measure of sharp sand with the rest soft when they render. Makes for a harder render. Good luck trowelling it on and not pushing any of your wedged bricks in. I'd have filled the gaps as much as I could with a mortar gun. That'd hold it all together and make for a nice nobbly surface to render to.
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No it's a strength thing. Soft sand makes for a weaker mix than sharp sand. If it helps then the sand you get in ballast is basically sharp sand. It's "sharp", coarse, has little bits of stone in it.
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Options for Replacing garage roof
Onoff replied to TonyT's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Existing or new? Would you consider in roof pv panels? You could then save on some "tiles". Don't know, weather wise if you could fit the trays now and panels later? -
I've just emailed the author of this to see if he has any idea on these weird readings I'm getting on the phase converter. That 430V to earth on one phase is "correct" in that's how the phase converter is built. I measure it between the 415V output in the big transformer and earth. Brown and earth on the right go to the output. So it's "correct" I just don't understand! Well, I understand how the trannie steps it up from 230 to 415 but not how it doesn't upset the machines.
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I'm tempted to post you some sample pots of sharp sand, builders sand and all in one ballast! ?
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Agreed. If my old man had let me rewire his place when I offered he wouldn't be having to stoop down like he is now. Ditto lowering the switches. Any I move at home now go in at the new heights.
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replacement window fitting - expanding foam or expanding tape
Onoff replied to riccol1966's topic in Windows & Glazing
Must have been the fastest window fitters in the west did some of mine. When I removed the plastic trim the gaps were huge! Still a number to do. -
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Pretty sure they have specific socket and switch height recommendations under their Building Standards. Does Part M apply in Scotland?
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Everyone needs to have a look at Section 1 of Part P. BCOs sometimes need reminding too. Parts P and M for reference attached. BR_PDF_AD_P_2013 (1).pdf BR_PDF_AD_M1_2015_with_2016_amendments_V3 (2).pdf
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TFFT! ? You had me panicked I'd been testing things wrong for 40 years! I'll measure all the caps tomorrow if I can. The converter unfortunately is 6' up in the air on a shelf above a donkey saw. I had to balance on the saw earlier. Yep, I'll discharge the caps!
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I know. Fully aware but it should only be 230 not 400.
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You haven't answered my question. I'm taking it you think it normal to see 400V phase to neutral or phase to earth. Sorry, I must be missing something! I've always worked on this:
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It's been running and still runs, all different 3P machines. Mill, pillar drill, donkey saw etc.
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Thanks, but again it's always been 400V between phases, 230V phase to neutral or phase to earth. Sorry, I don't understand you saying 400V phase to neutral or phase to earth is normal.
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I'll have a crack at drawing the circuit out
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? Whenever I measure a 3P supply I look for 400V between any two phases then 230V any phase to neutral or any phase to earth. How do you reckon some of these machines are starting with phase 3 down?
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Do you think a duff cap(s) could be why I'm getting this unexpected 430V to earth? Debating dropping any control voltage to either 42 or 48V. I've 400v trannies to do both.
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A few random pics inside the phase converter. Bfo trannie in there and lots of caps. Incoming L&N appear to go to the transformer and take 230V up to ""415" out on the brown. Across the red and black to the transformer 230V. Out on the brown 430V. Measuring from a wall socket between N or E to the phase converter outputs. One phase to E or N. Circa 400V. Other two phases to E or N at the socket, zero volts.
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MCS certified is he?
