SuperJohnG

Typical click bait by the looks of thing. No hard and fast evidence. Plus you can have old style toilets which are close coupled and could run all night, in fact any toilet can run all night. To blame it on dual flush doesn't make sense imo. Do you guys pay for how many liters you use? or standard no matter you use? we have a standard amount payable as part of council tax.

I hadn't really though about that too much. Having a sill was something I hadn't picked up on, but looks like it could be removed if required. @canalsiderenovation from your pics I think you'll be fine if it falls away on the outside. You can see why they haven't packed it up as the head of the slider looks tight to the beam from the pics.

That sounds like one of those tails of woe where people don't like change. Youd hear it constantly running. Close coupled is much better. I assume this is for English regs? I havent seem this in Scotland. Albeit..we don't really have a water issue (well shortage anyways) ?

I have just finished doing my levels for my sliders as I need to put a recess in the insulated slab in order to have a 'near as dammit' flush threshold. I am also using LVT, and albeit I am aiming for a flat slab which will be power floated, the margin for error with LVT is minimal, hence an acrylic latex screed may be required. Minimum you can have is 3mm. I didn't want to be in a position where i hadn't made an allowance hence allowed for two scenarios, one with and without screed. Then I drew out the levels - see attached. Ideally 5mm min showing on threshold, then you have 5mm on the slider rail (middle of the door). Then I made allowance for amtico, screed, etc. I've made the choice to just put a bigger recess in the slab then pack up as required when fitting as by then i will know if a screed is required. The outside level should sit below that outer lip and then ensures no ingress on my sliders (Zyle Fenster) - not entirely flush but ensures no ingress. It's not ideal having the FFL higher than the slider inside, but it won't cause ingress of water. On the outside there must ( I assume!) be a slope like my drawing, then as long as your paving goes below the lip or you have drainage right there it will be fine. If you can still raise issue for snagging on window install, 'd be asking why it wasn't packed up, but that assumes there was space available to pack it up? JG Threshold buildup Model (1).pdf

Just as an FYI, I got a quote for a 3.6 kW Array today. £2.5k plus VAT, which I thought seemed reasonable at that and viable. If you can get it down below £2k getting trade pries, I'd be very tempted to go with it. EDIT: I compared with the earlier quote and seems my price is 20-25% higher. Time for a wee discussion I think.

I'd agree. I'd be chasing solicitor here if he/she did not advise you correctly.

Whilst looking for info on installing wiring for a multi room speaker system I came across a thread on the avforums or similar. You can buy NFC tags and stick them on anything and then once you need to find them just use your phone to locate. Seemed like a great idea...

Thanks @Nickfromwales I will add some once i calculate. Where donyoubgetbthose Hepworth manifolds you mentioned? Google seems to eluding me!

Are you talking about adding a loop through the manifold and extra pump? If I do a manifold then it would be adjacent to the UVC in the plant room. Is there any value there?

God damn.....again the forum strikes.and gives me a reason to make something better. I now see the added value.....maybe.

Not that I've done it (I'm generally waiting for you to tell me how it should be done, as we.are about the only ones building SIPS here). But maybe just tape that join. Then tape the VCL again on top?..its going to be mega mega aitrtight. But I don't know where the diminishing returns start. Loving the Halloween decorations

I don't really see the added value here. It's just more pipework, costs and labour doing this IMO. I get the perceived benefit of having a central location to isolate anything. But in reality how often is anyone isolating anything, hardly ever. Once you are connected and no leaks, unless you need to change something out you don't isolate it, then even if you have to theres a local isolation valve or the mains can just be isolated.

I think your original message was missing a few words, hence i was thinking he got it for 500 quid...?

Are you concerned around moisture or airtightness? If you have that 70mm PIR then VCL on external wall. You can then batten and plasterboard the external wall first then the stud after plastering its going to be pretty air tight and I would think any moisture there would be negligible. Also the VCL isn't required on SIPS if I remeber correctly? Sealing around that stud will defo be a PITA and maybe wasted effort as it'll never be perfect?

I actually posed this question to protek a few weeks back. I was told that it would cost more money to do this than compared to the standard structural warranty.

@joe90 I spent some time trying to validate this previously as it was the route I was planning to take but couldn't find anyone who would do a retrospective indemnity policy anywhere. Unless you know of any?

I just realised I jad even commented in that other thread. ? I thought I'd add some more relevant info here which will help close the loop on a few items, saves others asking the questions

@LA3222 can you point me in the direction of this discussion/thread? Typical - found it. For anyone else :

Most of these horror stories are generally due to bad installation and setup more often than not by a 'certified' installer. As per @AliG usually they were installed where they shouldn't have been and most likely (I'm surmising here) by being oversold on the RHI. I couldn't count the endlessly good reports I have heard on here about ASHP systems, I've only heard one or two bad and generally they were issues with one specific manufacturer. I good question asked was what level of insyaltuon and airtightness are you aiming for. That will help give us an idea of a direction to guide you. P.s. havent read one thread on here about a GSHP maybe because I'm not looking but it certainly seems like a system which never hit its mark to become economical in the mainstream

Yeah I have full eastings and northings for the stations. I just done some reasearch and they are just metres so I can actually measure off the ACAD and provide new stations locally and then provide positions for the house and ducts etc by myself.

Id actually done this when I finalising the house positin after the topo. I'd created two new stations local to the house position justbto make it easier for me to mark out arcs and trainagulate all the corners. Its was only accurate to whatever the tape is but was fine for that. Essentially yep I'll have the surveyor do the same thing when I get him back. I do have all the house and topo drawings in ACAD and use them to measure off and mark up. My friend actually has a total station so all I need to do it give him the easting and northings of the existing positions of the existing stations. Mark some new ones on my acad drawing and then I could give him all the points and set it out myself, I may do this as a backup anyway, it would save 450 but sometimes its woth paying the money to make sure its done right. The only bit I am missing is how you relate easting and northings to measurements on an ACAD drawing. But thats probably another thread I need to start..

Makes sense now. I Guess you just turn the stat down when you do that to compensate now though?. I've not got UFH inncurrent house hence being too hot can be dealt with quickly by opening a window but witha slab its going to be hot for a while I guess? I just done a little more reading and maybe not as simple as they are best in the middle of a room. I was assuming you could drill a hole somewhere inconspicuous (below a stud maybe or in a cupboardand) where you knew there wasn't a pipe and drop it down in there.....

Thanks @Gav_P any info on why you'd go for that now? I would have thought should be easy to retrofit too?

I have UFH in slab, and just about to start the layouts. But was planning on just going single zone and a normal thermostat as most seem to end up with this here. Much difference using in slab temp sensor?

Do they get fed from cold mains or from cold water storage in the Attic? Which was common for cold water taps and toilets. Where it wasn't really potable water. Kitchen is always off mains. A small mesh filter will block fast if its that bad. I'd whip the feed pipe off before the toilet and let it run into a bucket to see whats going on. Its maybe a single bit stuck at the isolating valve breaking down.