SuperJohnG

hold onto your hats....western red cedar.

This looks great. Exactly what I'd hope for. Maybe I should try local and see where I get to would be very interested to find that Glasgow supplier

Thanks @Redoctober much appreciated

Ah no that was my bad typing. What wood was that you used for the soffit? Looks nice and similar to what I am trying to achieve.

The are just hills.....wee tiny things!

Thats good news . Interestingly what soffitaterial.is that @Redoctober thats something I need toneort also

Prices today for me from Russwood: 100m2: Thermopine - £4542 Siberain larch - £6150 Both ex VAT....iNSANE.

I thought that, air should still flow well through through the membrane I assume, I do have two membranes as on one SIPS panel, then on one top of sarking.

damn you @Russell griffiths. trying to drag me down with you, but I'm 100% with you. Just not sure how the budget can take it. this teak could certainly be an option. need to have a look somewhere.

Hmm not quite sure which bit you mean do you mean up the verge? Its finished with Kytun, then barge board down as per the fascia detail. Added a few images of the mdoel so you can see the roof profile thanks,

Has anyone ever seen this ventialted ridge system? Roofing merchants dropped this off to see how it fitted. I am looking for a dry ridge ventilated system. So this cocrete ridge tile sits on these plastic bits which will rest on the slates and a seperate, but all be screwed together with a strap over the top between each ridge tile. I think it's sandtoft but have never seen it before. He reckons using this you don't need to roll out membrane bit. Has anyone used this or seen this? Keen to see if its any good or a load of rubbish. Slates obviously still to go on.

That's the bit I'm just not sure of. If it's purely decorative can I use any wood? Just stain to suit?

ouch, I'll keep looking for other readily available and in budget options! Albeit at this stage, I've just ignored the budget and hoping for the best.

ah well good decision not to use it! is the oil I assume driving that price?

I have a large canopy (3m) and these lovely profiled soffits which return at an angle and get rid of the box end soffit design. I have opted for Black ash fascia and I have black fibre cement cladding in places along with white renderboard elsewhere. Hence as a nice detail i wanted to get a lovely wooden soffit to contrast well with the black fascia and cladding and provide a nice view from inside the glazed gable. I have ben talking to Russwood forever about this, and siberian larch and themropine are on offer both at about 40/m2 ( I need 100m2). I had wanted red cedar but that's prohibitive at 100m2 just now! But both the larch and thermopine seems to be on 17-20 weeks whch is ridiculous. So ws looking tat what others used, to be cost effective and give a nice finish. Ideally it woudl be red cedar or a similar nice rich finish, but might not happen. Does anyone know any other good options that would do it justice? or good suppliers for quality materials. I did look at Vulcan today. who do aluminium wood grain finish cladding, looks lovely...but at 140m2 - thats mental! Few pictures below...one of @Alexphd1's arrnagement which is what i wanted. (sorry for stealing!). Also pictures of canopy so here will be windows where the wife and kids are sitting and you'll be able to see that canopy inside so wood clad will be nice.

SIPS at clays are meant to be decent. @LA3222 is that who you used? I have a SIPS eco kit.

I don't see how glass will be better than tiles? It will be exactly the same in terms of cleaning required with the exception of the grout. I personally don't like wet wall (I assume that's what shower wall is) I don't know why I find it a low quality finish albeit can be very expensive and looks nice. I feel like it's cheating not using tiles.

A kock can be normal as mentioned above to put water back to the roof and then into gutter. But I wouldn't be pointing a roofer if you don't like the kick I'd be at the bricky and or joiner who should have made it all line through. Looks fine.

You're the first person I thought of writing the first line. I was even going to tag you...

You're either reading this for one reason or the other. If it's to help plan sticking stuff through walls and sealing this then great. If not...you need a different forum.! SIPS kit is up, roofers starting so turning attention to getting ready mounting the rendrboard and cedral fibre cement. I will have a ventilation gap (45mm) and hence I would like to add as many penetrations prior to doing render board so I can seal them effectively from the outside at the membrane and also add supports battens for bigger penetrations like MVHR ducts which will go through walls to get a good fixing for renderboard there. Looking for any input in whether I should seal inside and outside? What you used to seal outside? Was it just air tightness tape too? Any things that you learned doing so etc and any handy hints. Also what things you had forgotten about and had to do later. Go....

Defo tested and you should have required treatment put in place. I have just had my treatment requirements quoted...after a major headache of getting no water at first...which then turned into trickle (200lph) we can now use. I needed basic treatment and it's 8k....the whole borehole thing might be my biggest f*ck uo so far.

sorry that should have read 'unsuitable' above in my first sentence. I believe they are treated whitewood as per normal C16, but not like green treated. However I believe that the 47 x 50mm is so inconsistent that it's not worth using.

In a strange turn, the Jewson rep told me the 45 x 45 C16 was suitable for outside, albeit wasn't sure as it was behind render board. Does anyone definitively know where I can find the answer if it can be normal 45 x 45 as above, or does it need to be 47 x 50mm treated (green) timber?. Any help appreciated. it's go tme going round in circles. Joiner reckons the green treated varies in thickness too much.

I'm still stuck on this but rapidly approaching needing it sorted. I have priced aluminium which they will do for 800 quid for the full 70m.of the house, albeit much smaller profile with say with 70mm main horizontal bit to cover eps top surface which does the 50mm plus 20mm overhang to slip a render board under then 10mm vertical edge and that leaves 20mm to come up the sole plate and attach it to the sole plate. But what i am wondering is where people stop the battens. From what I see from pics of @Scotrock and @lizzie the battens come right down. But how do you then get the PIR upstand in easily? Just cut between battens? Or stop battens well short and leave last 200mm of render board unsecured? Fitting insect mesh seems pain too. I'm sure it'll be clear once I do it. But would like this to look nice and not cost the earth.

Thanks for that.