Triassic

Are these the codes ? http://www.homeautomationhub.com/content/boiler-control-using-urf

I searched for "Drayton controller hacks" lots of information there for the clued up amongst us. Not sure if this helps http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/sites/default/files/LPsi Reset (I. Guide).pdf According to the blurb I've just read on another forum, these types of controller were only meant to be used in Social Housing, as a way of ensuring the annual gas safety checks were done. More info here http://www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk/drayton_lifestyle_si_programmers.htm. Maybe you should take the controller back to where you purchased it and ask them to change it, after all it was never meant to be the used in your situation.

The best advice is don't buy Drayton controllers, simple!

I thought there was a small screw and friction pad within the sliding bit of the window mechanism?

My last understandin was that Internorm have an adjustable friction stay as part of the window hinge?

One of the most Interesting garden we visited had nothing but a tarmac parking area, with a few neglected tubs at the front of the house. However, the back garden was a joy, a nice sunny patio at the top and different spaces/gardens as it tumbled down the hill to a stream at the bottom.

Sloap - A lazy, slovenly, tawdry person. Probably the person who couldn't be bothered to fill the space left over.

The DNO has just moved our meter into an outhouse, we went from having a standard and off peak meter, to just having a standard meter. They just gave me the old off peak meter and said keep hold of it as someone from the electricity company might want it back!

Maybe go for a softer colour for the new render, something not so stark as white.

The SE has specified an external land drain 200mm below the basement slab and an external water proofing membrane, these then drains into the drain and down the slope at the front of the semi-basement. I'm currently pricing the membrane, hopefully it'll be cheaper than £25k. Also I don't need a guarantee, IF it leaks, muggins here will have to fix it ! Just a thought, isn't the ICF waterproof to some extent ?

Is there a specification for vibration? How much is too much?

Our Build is on a hillside, if water pressure builds behind our basement we're all doomed!

I see that with this system the concrete is vibrated, whereas others don't recommend vibration. Given that others on this thread suggested steel shutter, this plastic stuff must be strong !

He's provided the reinforcing details, mind you it looks over the top given that we are in limestone, rather than loose earth.

The SE has calculated a core width of 200mm, I assume I just send my drawings to the ICF companies, along with Insulation requirements and they do the rest.

Now that I'm getting back the full swing of self Build, I'll take you up on that offer. I'm busy this week, so maybe sometime next week if possible.

So if I went down the ICF route, which product is the best, in terms of easy of use and value for money etc?

I never use them. The last three toilets were siliconed to the floor tile. My two chubbster friends have used them and they've never moved.

I'm talking to a local concreting contractor to do the slab. He specialises in concrete slabs, he has his own concrete pump, something we will need as we can't get a mixer truck onto site. The truck can only reverse off the road to discharge into the pump. The concrete will then be pumped onto site.

My self build project has been a bit of a stop start affair over the last couple of years. We started planning with great gusto when we had a buyer for our house, unfortunatly the sales chain fell through and it was all stop. Then the original buyer came back again last year and we finally sold our old house. So we moved onto site and have been slowly picking up where we left off. We've only looked at formwork as this is the approach suggested by the last two builder we had on site to look at and quote for the work. Their quotes were so far apart, £50k and £150k I was left scratching my head! As to ICF, it's something we looked in the past, but I have no experience of it. Maybe I need to consider it again.

So around 31.5 stone then! Wow. Will the wall bend?

One of the problems I have and I know this is affecting the price, is no access onto site for a crane due to the topography. So the formwork will have to be constructed in-situ, out of parts that can be lifted using either a telehandler or muscle power. That's assuming the insulated slab is strong enough for to support a telehandler.

This might be a daft question, but here goes! We've been looking at wall hung toilets and as we have some hefty friends, two of which must be around 18 to 20 stone, wondered about the safe working load when seated? Had a quick search online but none the wiser!

I'm due to start the digging out of our basement, it's set into a slope and once dug, it will be open at the front, onto a grassed area. Having received some reduculous quotes for the basement walls, a mate suggests we get a locally recommended concreting company to cast the slab and he and I construct the basement formwork. He's just done some, as a subbie, for a stand at the local football ground. He suggests he and I could do the work for half the cheapest quote. How hard can it be? After all I have the structural engineers drawings to work to and millimetre accurate foundation drawings from Hilliard?

Is the pan floor or wall mounted, it's not clear from your photo.