joe90

For example? (Don't know what happened above,?)

I for one would like to hear about the alternative way of doing it.

This will add 5 meters of pipe for both flow and return and not be in such good insulation , is this a problem?

I am using EPS, 300mm.

Dear all, I have had my UFH designed and priced by Wunda ( recommended) but it did not include the feed from the ASHP/ buffer tank which is some 9 meters away. They have told me it needs to be in 22mm plastic or coppper. The floor is 100mm concrete ( with the pipes in strapped to steel mesh) on top of 300mm EPS, I would like to run the feeds within the EPS but should it be within a conduit or two conduits for separation ( heat transfer hot to cold) does not happen. Any tips greatfully received.

Jeremy also stated that he can cool his slab by reverse engineering the ASHP and it works well ( I plan to do the same)

Hi peter, this will be done in a few weeks ( hopefully) and I will post photos and let you all know how it goes.

+1, I have installed about 50 mtrs of pipe ready for the house and I just intend flushing it ( well the builders will do this during the build) .

P.S. forgot to say we started my build thIs week ( although we are still waiting to hear from the Secretary of State regarding our appeal to build what we want ?)

I believe that showing my bills to a future prospective owner will prove more than a certificate ( but I will never sell it honest ?)

That's why on my post above I put "passive house principled new build". I don't see the point in paying for a certificate as I have nothing to prove to anyone, I just want a comfortable cheap to run house and I have a conscience regarding pollution.

I know I am going to " suffer" from solar gain in my passive principled new build but after a holiday to the south of France where we both loved the heat I am looking forward to it. Seriously though my south facing " sun space" in the middle of winter and the shoulder seasons can be a lovely place to be when its wet or chilly outside.

Thanks Nick ?

Dear all, we have decided to put electric UFH in our bathrooms and as we dislike tiles are going for good quality vinyl. Can anyone recommend a type or even a supplier for this kit as I am only conversant with under tile heating mats within a levelling compound. Ta.

In effect yes, not sure what my builder is going to do exactly but it will be built as per the diagram above. He did mention making wooden formers to support the concrete. Anyway, I am meeting him on site tomorrow to mark out the site, founds being dug on Tuesday and concrete strips being poured soon after, so after a two and a half year battle we finally are getting started. We just have to wait for our Secretary of State appeal to find if the top floor is cottage ( as we want) or room in roof that the LPA are insisting on.

I am having UFH pipes cable tied to steel mesh within the concrete slab and that slab is going on top of the internal wall so there is no potential weakness in doorways. Our DPC is going under the insulation like this:-

+1, I bought an old JCB and it's been great fun and invaluable, it does however create a mess of the ground, I am thinking after digging the foundations to trade it in for a swing shovel that does less damage to the ground ( we are on quite boggy ground).

Well as some of you know I have been fighting planners for two and a half years ( to replace a building that existed) had a health scare, waiting for the second appeal to the Secretary of State and starting the foundations next Monday but found out this week my health scare has returned !!!!!. Talk about timing. Conversely my wife thinks our build will be my saviour, it's been in my head for many years and she believes the stress of waiting and not knowing is worse than getting on with it. She tells me I am better for being on site for a couple of days. So bring it on, what else could possibly go wrong ? ( don't answer that).

With our planning permission we had to prove we were unable to connect to a main sewer before they would consider a treatment plan.

Don't talk to me about LPA,s, with our site the LPA " assumed" that part of our garden was agricultural even though we do have a field next door and a fence showing the demarcation. When I asked how they came to their conclusion regarding the garden they said they used google maps.i pointed out that there has never been a fence, hedge or ditch across the site and when I said I could get family members to sign an affidavit to state that in the last 30 years it had been used as a garden and I had land registry documents to prove my case they withdrew their argument. I did come across a blog from a solicitor somewhere on the net who stated the councils were very good at getting the curtilidge mixed up with building plot and he had fought many cases and won rant over.

I always use 5amp sockets around a lounge wired back to a wall switch or two to enable standard or table lamps to be switched on when entering the room . Simple and very effective.

I once fitted a kitchen that was supplied by the customer and lots of bits were wrong and the company that supplied it wanted the wrong boxes sent back at the customers cost and told replacements would take three weeks. I always used Howdens ( before I retired) as their customer service was excellent and even damaged goods were replaced with no question.

Yes, screw direct to OSB/ply. Have a look at Viking house website which gives lots of info on various methods and different levels of soundproof-ness of stud walls and flooring.

My last house had a vented cavity, there were vents from the outside into the underfloor void and also vents into the cavity alone at ground level. The top of the cavity was open to the cold roof space.

Where is Jeremy when you need him ?