joe90

Still waiting for my new processor card for my ASHP but I was wondering how I could wire the immersions to top up the DHW after the ASHP got it to 40’. I notice that the DHW tank stat has a change over contact so if I set the ASHP to deliver 40’ water and the stat on the tank is set to 40’ (or 39’) and wire this via the make contact not the break contact the immersion it will only come on when the DHW tank has been heated by the ASHP. The stat within the immersion could be set to the temp required for DHW (50?). An over ride switch could be used if the immersion is needed from cold. If I do use E7 or E10 things will be different. Is there a flaw in my plan?.

Thats good news, there is no food within the cavity (unless it brought a picnic).

Well, because of previous threads on vermin and EWI I have been very careful and apart from the ASHP pipes and the MVHR ducts there are no breaks in the outer skin, that’s why I think something got in when I broke through the brickwork to wire the conservatory. There is no food within the cavity so hopefully whatever it is will die. Hopefully our airtight house will stop the smell getting into the house (my wife’s worry).

Thats not possible in my house, it’s a warm roof and the inner block skin is sealed to the osb lining the roof.

Yes, but I had to break into it for 24hrs to extend wiring into the new conservatory, I can only assume something got in then and is now sealed in!.

Sat watching TV tonight and my wife says something’s behind the settee, on investigation a scratching noise could be heard in the patio door reveal. This reveal is only plasterboard and after tapping it the noise stopped. Later I heard the same noise In the front door reveal!!. I can only imagine it’s a mouse or rat but the cavity is sealed!, but, it was open for a short while when I made some cabling changes. I guess there is no food value in rockwall (which is full fill batts in our cavity) so the vermin will starve, hopefully before it eats too much insulation. My wife’s worry it will die and smell but if the cavity is sealed I said no smell should get out. Just got back after a few days away and it’s still alive. Any thoughts?

I also conflicted with this and without any other insulation in the garage, metal roof and no heating I can’t see how insulation will raise the temperature , the floor will surely balance with the air temperature.

Thanks Gav, yup I have ordered mine from the Netherlands, apart from finding it difficult to arrange a foreign money transfer their communication was good, it will take a couple of weeks to arrive and will report how I get on.

Not sure about your position but I had a row with our planners about building my garage under permitted development and won the day because I proved I had demolished the previous garage by a certain date and this was classed as starting my development. Probably best to contact planning and ask them.

Best of luck, let us know how it goes.

With our UFH running temp on an immersion within the buffer tank (till I get my ASHP working!) with the TRV on the manifold set to frost I still get 24’ into the manifold and after 24 hours the house s too hot. I bought the Salus auto balancing control as advised by @JSHarris. I hope this controls the temp more accurately. Also I bought the Wilo pump as it’s also whisper quiet .

And if we fall out with the Saudi,s ?.

Glad your not hurt both of you and well done on cracking this one ?

I wondered this with ours, 1200 x 800 tray with 1200 shower screen but we added a flipper panel at 300mm to stop water tracking along the screen and ending on the floor. In reality it works very well (originally I wanted a door) and am very pleased, glad we didn’t get a door in the end.

Yes I have just installed a treatment plant, had to get permission to drain to ditch via the EA. As the ditch is dry a couple of months a year had to instal a rumble drain (pipe from plant to outfall full of holes and trench full of gravel). My treatment plant has an air pump fitted above it so power was required at the location. Simple to install, mine was in concrete as the water table is high.

That sounds like a very reasonable explanation. Shame this kind of information is not available it might make understanding how they work more usable (for those of us that don’t use just standard settings).

I agree with all the above.... If I set the hot water point at 45’ this may well be sufficient for heating the UFH buffer and the DHW. Will have to “suck it and see”.

Thanks Jeremy, will try programming the command unit when I get a new board for the ASHP.

Ah, my instructions say “113, heat water set point / this code is use to set the fixed heating water set point” min 20’, max 60’, default 45’ i read this as “heating” not “sanitary hot water”. Does the ASHP heat water to two different temps, heating and sanitary (DHW) or just one temp. There is no sanitary hot water temp setting in my instructions. My my brain hurts!.

Is the heating water temp one of these parameters?, is the DHW temp another or the same.? my controller does have “touch and go” buttons, home, away, sleep, next. (Yet to programme them yet).

As I understand it the command unit working as room stat and timer only work for heating and if I use E7 or E10 I will set the command units heating on times to match cheap electricity. The separate timer would be for DHW only.(or sanitary hot water as carrier call it) . If I use E7 or E10 I will set this separate timer to also take advantage of cheap electricity. I can chose the two to not collide time wise. Having read the installation manual again ?you can set the “heat water set point” as parameter 113 (heating only?) but there appears no “sanitary hot water set point”. So I guess the DHW cylinder stat will be a way of limiting this temperature?. Therefore I do wonder when the ASHP is trying to heat sanitary hot water it may go into defrost before the DHW tank is up to temp? Is it a case that the “heat water set point” controls both heating and sanitary hot water temps?. I am beginning to understand this better but the more I understand the more questions I have!

I have ordered the Salus valve to fine control the manifold temperature, any thoughts on my plan above please.

I have a reamer that I got with my manifold etc, I will donate it to the forum and people can pass it around if they want, I don’t plan another self build (at my age ?).

I believe the command unit also controls cooling if required, frankly I just want to get the heating sorted, I won’t need cooling till next year, if at all. @Gav_P did you get your control board yet?

Right, I think I have a plan!, still trying to source a new board for the ASHP, have messaged the French supplier that @Gav_P bought one from on Ebay to see if they can supply another one., if not it’s the Netherlands as Carrier were expensive. The Wunda room stat I will use purely to view the house temp in the hallway (after it blew up my ASHP board!!!) (and er indoors will think that’s how you raise the temp ?) I will use the command unit to act as the room stat (one zone whole of downstairs) and programme any heating times. No need for the TP5000 room stat TS715 time switch for DHW as per diagram (but will only use this if we go E7 or E10) UFH pump will run from the buffer tank stat, this will mean the pump will only run when the buffer is up to temp. I can provide an override switch to this if I want to even out floor temps. Not wiring for UFH for cooling yet. Please let me know your thoughts , good or bad.