joe90

Thats wot I said and what I have done, common sense in my opinion.

@Mania glad you won your appeal, I have not seen “hide nor hare “ of the planners since we won our appeal and the neighbour who objected to everything (unreasonably according to the appeal officer) has moved away ? but then again we have no restrictions and only plan to build what we applied fir (apart from some fences that may take years fir me to get round too ?)

I think @epsilonGreedy is putting twist straps to trusses rather than just wallplate (which is much better IMO).

More than adequate IMO, what are you going to set in the concrete to hold the posts or are you going to bolt them down?

Have you bought the skirting yet? If so.....

If it were me (again) and your skirting is big enough or your pipes low enough I would do this....

If you call out BC, he will tell you if you need anything else done before sign off .

yes, 6.5 fir brown 5.5 fir red yes again, I know what you mean above pulling tight with screws but these fixings are in shear force and screws are not designed fir that re the previous thread about not using screws in joist hangers, these are the nails to use. https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-nail/p77559?store

I tend to drill half a mm less than should be , especially in lightweight blocks but your straps I would nail with hardened nails, so much easier and quicker.

No one is hollerin at you, weird sense of humour maybe! You have had lots of support despite your lack of confidence so crack on mate ?

Frankly whatever it is stick a screwdriver in it and see if the wood is solid or soft, do this all over and you will see how much it’s been compromised, if at all, then get a reputable local builder/roofer (someone who has a good reputation locally, Facebook might be a good source) to give an opinion on what’s required.

It tends to wane a bit ?, I’m with @PeterW, get the membrane on and your dry.(you’ll be grateful when It’s raining and want to work “inside”.)

We all know of your problems with the builder so let’s leave that, or you will get an ulcer!!!. RIGHT, if it were me I would make my own frame from 130mm x 40mm planned square edge (or as near as you can), screwed to the upright timbers, remove plasterboard behind these if you wish but not necessary IMO. Verticals up to the ceiling Then tight fit top piece between them. (This will help stop hinges pulling frame away from the wall). Build your own “plank “ door and fit then buy 40mm x 15mm door stops and fit them to the door afterwards. Quick CAD drawing (crayon assisted drawing).

Well done, it’s what we did (and had to fight planners all the way) looking forward to your plans and questions.

no, the vertical piece of timber, floor to ceiling where you want the hinges to go!!!! How is this piece fixed to the wall, what size timber is it? 2x4, 3x2 ??? Your door frame is going to be fixed to this so we need to know if it’s strong enough to do the job!

What size is the timber on the wall?

Yes a header can help if fixings are not very good on the verticals.

So that vertical timber is where you are putting your door frame?, how is it fixed to the wall? Does the insulation go behind this timber? Do me a little sketch of what’s there in section.

I installed my own ASHP and DHW cylinder, got a neighbour plumber to help and he signed it off for me. Are you going fir RHI ? as this appears to bump the price up a lot and in a lot of people’s minds not worth the extra cost.

?

Two types of door frame, rebate vs plant on, I like plant on because you can make it fit the door exactly even if it’s a bit warped

Is this door fitting to old cottage wall or new wall built by builder in timber frame?

Do this first....then we will talk you through it........

The problem (I found) with frame kits with no nail on beading is if the frame is out of square a little the door won’t fit right, I like plant on door stops and these can be planted on to fit the door after it’s hung in the frame.

My electric towel rads are used fir warm towels / dry towels and make the room a little warmer when you take your clothes off , mine are on timers fir the beginning and end of the day, too much hassle to plumb them into downstairs UFH for the short periods they are on. MVHR is unlikely to shift any noticeable heat from these rooms.