joe90

+1 as @ProDave says, their cockup.

No, concentrate on yourself ?

@Onoff I think he means the rebate at the top to take the uprights so it fits the Space tightly.

loverly place, I used to live in Shropshire. Did you visit the feathers? https://www.feathersatludlow.co.uk

We found this one, traditional type but lovely colour

how about. “Lining kit”. ?

why do you make that assumption ??? screw the frame together as @PeterW suggests and slide it in, then hammer Thin wedges under the uprights at the floor (which will be covered by carpet) and this will make it a very tight fit.

yes but by your own admission you don’t understand what’s wrong, those that are trying to help you know more than you and I do, so follow their suggestion and see what happens so do it and report back and those “that know” will be able to give an explanation as to what is wrong so you can tell your installers what needs changing.

I went brick and block fir two reasons, 1/ I wanted a non maintenance exterior (not render) so brick 2/ I wanted solid heavy internal walls so block . Big cavity and shed loads of insulation and attention to airtightness make it very cheap to run. The only thing I would change is the first floor makeup, voices carry between floors and wish I had doubled up plasterboard and sound insulation.

Oops, bet it was not a “self builder”.

Welcome from someone else in the SW (Devon, not that rough bit called Cornwall ????). Orientation makes a big difference too, on our plot a turned the house through 90’ to make the back, with most windows and conservatory, face South (despite being told we would overheat). I didn’t do any calculations but went with passive principles and guess work based on other people’s info on this thread. It works very well.

Right, if you want the header to help keep the uprights against the walls rebate them slightly and screw. Fix the header to that stud work.

Big boys wheelbarrow ?

there is no load on the header, the building should have a lintel of some sort holding things up. If you put the header in first, the uprights (if fitted tight floor to ceiling) will hold it in place, aided by no nails.

I think you will have trouble trying to have the door “outside” the frame, if your worried about width then cut back the plasterboard which will give you an extra inch. Re the header, if fixing is a problem (why? What is above this?) then use no nails.

all my door stops are “plant on”. I just prefer them and more than adequate.

As above I would build an insulated “box”to go over it and remove the loft insulation below it so it tracks the house temperature .

I know we don’t burn our stove fir long but the hearth gets barely warm!!!, (heat rises!!!).

the good news is, no one will ever see it.

My 3cx is incredibly strong but it struggled with tree stumps, don’t underestimate them!!!

Ha, yes, almost impossible to get a vertical cut, I always cut it rough and routed out to size.

Hence the reason I said.... or.....cut from the back with a normal blade.

I have used them a lot, just need to make sure the jigsaw is held down hard https://www.screwfix.com/p/t101brf-laminate-jigsaw-blades-3-pack

Beat you to it ol boy!!!!! (See above)

I bought my own 3CX and taught myself how to operate it and have got quite good, it’s been a brilliant tool over the last 4 years BUT it weighs 8.8 tons and can really carve up wet ground. I have got it buried twice and struggled to get it out. I will be selling it soon as I am running out of work for it plus having got the ground fairly level and flat I don’t want to carve it up again. They hold their price and after 4 years I will get most of my money back. I also bought a 60 year old dumper which was not good, I wish I had bought a hydraulic one as the old manual ones are much less use. Some people will be horrified at not being taught properly how to operate a large machine but it’s mostly common sense IMO. Best of luck. try this https://www.diggerland.com/individual-jcb-experience/ “Jump into the cab… get behind the wheel… and relax while our expert instructor introduces you to the controls and briefs you on all the relevant safety protocols. Learn how to drive and manoeuvre the machine within a confined space whilst excavating and moving the spoil, and then try not to panic when you find yourself left to your own devices and trying to remember which lever does what!