joe90

@puntloos do you intend cleaning your own roof lights?, if not find someone who will and ask them what they consider adequate (and get it in writing!)

Yes, even our Jeremy made his own weather calculating programmer and binned it in favour of one room stat. I have done the same, my programmer needs a degree to understand so I use a single room stat and timer. KISS ?

As I said I would clean them myself using my considerable knowledge of climbing equipment. I do believe health and safety is OTT, people should be allowed to make their own judgement and take responsibility for their actions without the constant blame culture. Like a previous poster, I was pulled up by a BC inspector fir climbing a ladder that had not been tied off, when I asked him how I was supposed to tie it off from the ground he muttered and walked away. Jobs worth with no real grasp on reality.

A pumice liner is what I have in my new build, superior to stainless (IMO). The brush you use should be the right size for the flue! My flue is 150mm (6 inches in old money). If you burn your stove hot rather than shut down your soot/creosote level will be minimal.

Yup still got those (somewhere in the loft) don’t think you will find any suitable “cracks” in a new roof (hopefully!!,)

Welcome, I designed and installed my own ASHP so it’s not rocket science but different from “normal” radiator systems, plenty of info here (and scaremongering ) remember to factor in the standing charge and connection charge fir gas in your calculations plus servicing.

Sorry to hear about your husband, these ceramic cartridges are readily available if they need changing but I have found just a grain of sand can cause dribbles, some can be taken apart and the discs cleaned (but you need to find the stopcock).

Trust me I have spent a long time hanging in a climbing harness (not a full body harness) and it does not cut off arterial blood ?. Plus I am talking about a restraint (too short to allow the wearer to venture over the roof edge) not a fall arrest!.

I agree

No, I said “short enough to stop falling from the roof” I.e. to stop the wearer going over the edge, not a “fall arrest “ first hit on tinternet shows a fall arrest https://www.screwfix.com/p/delta-plus-elara130-fall-restraint-kit-1-5m/6674R?tc=IA6&ds_kid=92700048793290415&ds_rl=1244069&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx9P9ua3S8wIVk2DmCh36dwUnEAQYASABEgKdFPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds, it’s not a “hook and rope”, it’s a locking carabiner and landyard with full body harness designed specifically for this purpose. What more is required?

I have only just come across this thread and as an ex mountaineer and climber find the rules over the top. If it were my roof I would simply install a large eye bolt near the side of the large window, secured down to the roof trusses, reachable from the access small window, lanyard (short enough to not fall over the edge of the roof) and screw carabiner and harness. This will be sufficient to clean said window but not fall, so no arrest equipment would not be needed. I still have harnesses and ropes many years old and still in good condition (they have to be stored correctly, no damp or sunlight. It’s simple enough to inspect ropes fir chaffing and harnessing fir stitching problems) but then again I would clean my own windows ?.

My brother in Law has just remodelled (very respectfully) a 16th century building and used kinetic lights all over to save chasing walls and removing oak panelling to hard wire them, brilliant idea.

When I bought my metal roofing for my workshop I asked about their “anti condensation” panels, basically a fluffy inside face but it was explained that unless the sides are open, like a barn, the fluff would not be dried by the wind. So I used a membrane ? If the roofer followed the drawings, ok, but if not ?‍♂️

Yes, what did your architect draw?, did your roofer follow the plans?.

I have metal roofing in my workshop and was worried about condensation so I used felt to catch it and it’s never been a problem but it’s only a Workshop. Personally I would have put felt in not to rely on the Kingspan to disperse any moisture.

This from the Wunda website which is the one they supplied https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/quick-shop/wundatherm-quick-shop/controls-quickshop/touchscreen-thermostat/

I do understand that. In our previous temporary house we had no insulation at all but had a gas boiler that made the radiators nearly glow but as soon as they went off the temp plummeted. My other half thought it was nice to feel the heat but overall the house was cooler than our new build. The house I just finished stays a constant 20 to 22’ thanks to insulation and airtightness but she feels “cool” and asks fir the heating to be turned up or the woodburner fired up (which leads to 25’ in the lounge). This house, despite being all electric and being nearly twice the size costs half to heat etc.

Yes I would double up the sole plate, it’s holding no weight really, just itself ?

This is the one that I got from Wunda. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Underfloor-Heating-Programmable-Electric-Thermostat/dp/B07C15QQY3/ref=asc_df_B07C15QQY3/?tag=googsh

Fair point but you made a statement that is not true, and we are just trying to help you understand how these things work, before I designed this house I had no idea how an ASHP worked so I read copious amounts and followed others (especially Jeremy Harris) in their threads and blogs to understand what I needed to do. I designed my own heating system and it’s a bit different to most but works well (phew).

I tend to agree I don’t understand that, any boiler, whatever fuel has an output of a measured amount, if a house requires a boiler of 10kW to heat it adequately it makes no difference if that 10kW comes from electricity, gas or oil. The limiting factor with an ASHP is the lower temperature of the water it produces therefore bigger radiators are required or UFH. but the output is still 10kW. I have a neighbour that has an old house and he installed an ASHP, yes it’s three times the size (output) of mine but I have three times the level of insulation.

Anyone else like to contribute to zoot s post above.

Eh? What I meant is, are the joist ends still ok to fix new soffit etc too are do those need mending as well.

Zoot, that is wrong, it is underpowered if it’s not “fit fir purpose” I.e. the size of the house and it’s insulation levels give you a figure that any heating system has to produce to heat that space. If your house needs 10kW to heat it then a 5KW system is underpowered.

Depends how far the rot goes?