joe90

Yup, Crayon Assisted Drawing ?‍♂️

Yes, not ideal to test mine but it’s due to get cold next week.

Result ???, I made a rubber diaphragm from a bike inner tube and blocked the non return valve and temp immediately shot up ?. I am going to try running it like this to see if it works relying on the buffer stat to control the temp. If as @Nickfromwales says it overshoots I will consider a small hole in the diaphragm and restore the TRV. Thanks guys. @ProDave what temp did you say you run your UFH water at?

+1.

I am a convert from tiles to wall panels, no grout to go mouldy and easier to clean.

I only have 0.5 acre (but it’s fun to own), also have saw bench, carry all and made a crane for it. Over 60 years old and still goes well, all parts available and mendable with a few spanners .

Or get one of these ?

Exactly what I was thinking this morning, shame it’s not a piece of pipe there as I could insert a stop tap so I could adjust it. Going to drain it and take apart tomorrow, will report back ?

Good morning and welcome I am similar in that whilst I want to be green I also have to protect my pension. What is your insulation strategy.

That is how I planned it but the manifold won’t give a decent temp to the top UFH rail and I must assume this is because of no pump pressure into the TRV.

This only happened to me when a rat got in and drowned and got stuck in a pipe. Other than that no problems in two years of operation. Yes, I moved my pump into the ground with sound insulation and is barely audible now.

No because when commissioned it was “turned down “ to match its input!

No the flow gauges are performing normally.

So @Nickfromwales do you think @ProDave is correct that no pump from the heat source is causing the problem? What would you suggest ?‍♂️ I could remove the buffer tank but would rather not as I would then need to wire the stat to control the heat pump and the manifold and I don’t want to hack into a new build to add wiring.

Probably, my Initial plan was a buffer tank at 35’ and blended down to 25’ at the manifold, however it’s been suggested a water temp of 30’ is needed to get a floor temp near 25’. I don’t think the problem is length of pipe,(10m) more the lack of pump from buffer tank to manifold. Later today I am going to remove the blending valve and block it some way, I have already removed the TRV head. I can then control the temp of the UFH water with the stat on the buffer tank. ? @Nickfromwales you got any advise on this?

This is my understanding, capital gains tax is for “investments” I.e. second homes.

Unfortunately I still disagree, yes I know how they work but because unlike a normal boiler system the flow and return from the heat source (a buffer tank) does not have a pump, it relies on the manifold pump to circulate the water from that tank and round the UFH loops. As the loop of pipe from the buffer tank is much longer and hence more resistive than that from the lower manifold it’s easier for cold water to be recycled than to use warm water. I think @ProDave is correct. I have removed the TRV head so this is fully open and temps both sides of it are the same. Another solution would be to remove the buffer tank as the UFH pump would then pump water into the manifold but I don’t really want to do this as I would loose the immersion facility to back up the ASHP. I may do what I said above, block the lower connection from lower rail to blending valve and TRV and rely on the buffer tank stat to control the temp of water in the UFH loops ?‍♂️

Been thinking about this and I am tempted to remove the TRV (top bit) and block the bottom rail where that lower temp gauge is then it will circulate the water at the temp set by the buffer tank stat and not blend any from the bottom rail ?.

I built in bricks and blocks (I hate render and love bricks) and got a good airtightness test, yes trades were easier to find and this particular “zombie” likes a “heavy” house ?

Never heard that before, but if you loose the motar and crap (just bricks) then you have graded it ?‍♂️. Spend a few days with a sledge hammer, cheap as chips!

No it does not have one, the only pump is on that manifold, hot water comes from the buffer tank. The manifold pump is working (flow gauges show this). The only other pump is on the pipework from the ASHP (which does not have a pump in it) then diverter valve to DHW tank or buffer tank. Funnily it has always worked at 23’ it’s only this latest cold snap that made me look and your comment on another thread about yours working at 35’ (I think ?).

Thanks for the reply but the TRV is fully open as temp both sides of it are the same, I wonder how the pump can pull hot water from the source (through the TRV) rather than from the return rail as it’s closer, I wish I had a stop cock between the pump and return rail to limit this ? and see if the temp went up!!!

I appear to be having a problem with my Wunda UFH manifold, despite water approx 35’ going into the manifold the water going into the top rail (see pic below) is only approx 23k ?, the TRV is set wide open and the pipework is hot both sides of it. I can only presume that the water is being blended with the cool water from the bottom rail. What stops water from the bottom rail being sucked into the pump rather than returning to the heat source???

Quite right, so why did you take the windows out? I had a similar neighbour and at appeal he was told he had no valid reason to object (he has since gone bankrupt and had to move ?).

I used to use that kind of trim when tiling around baths and it works well (if fitted properly with ct1 or similar underneath on bath to wall joint). Yes they can go yellow after many years but most people change theirs after that many years.