joe90

But it is not similar, a completely different animal.

We still have not had a link to the kit that they are going to fit so we are still in the dark to exactly what he is getting, common @zoothorn

(No, don’t tell Zoot ?)

I disagree, kettles and immersions create a lot of heat in a small area , bubbling, boiling hissing. An ASHP heats at a low level, which is why they take so long. When defrosting it’s simply the pump gently moving the water back out to the outside gubbins to warm it up and melt any frost.

If it misbehaves it’s faulty and engineers must fix it. As it’s been said here time and time again tanks and their pumps are very quiet any central heating system whatever the type has a programmer of some description for timing the heating and temps required. @ProDave and I programme ours to not heat during time we want quiet. Frosting only occurs when the heat pump is running. overnight you could programme to a lower temp which is quite normal. Defrosting only occurs when temps are low and RH is high, mine has only done this a couple of times in two years!!!!!

Yes my classic has no seat belts, the crumple zone is your face (but it looks good)

This issue is the very reason I got an architect (fir a reduced price) to simply put my drawings on CAD and send to the planners so they were correct (and I don’t have CAD, only pencil and paper). Despite accurate drawings I told my brickies to make openings to the nearest whole brick or half brick as I hate brick slivers. I had doors and windows bespokely made to fit the openings afterwards. Looks so much better(perhaps I am OCD ?‍♂️).

Unfortunately what is your option? demolish it? I had brilliant brickies but decided on a build change above bedroom windows and had to order another pack, yes the shade is a bit different and I notice it but no one else does ! I just get told I am OCD.

I have had various small Peugeot’s and done high mileage in them, yes I get it. Recently saw a 205 in a local garage and considered it fir my daughter, low tech, easy to maintain .

Sorry @zoothorn but at the risk of being rude you are not listening. 1/ the noisy bit was inside its now going outside 2/ water tanks and pumps are very quiet 3/ antifreeze in the water stops freezing due to cold weather, 4/ anti frost mode is a pump (quiet) moving some warm water from your internal pipework and/or buffer tank back into the unit outside because running In cold air and high relative humidity causes the fins to develop ice so blocking the air moving. 5/ software makes NO noise at all. please post up the Unit being installed and the collective (great) knowledge here will give it their approval or not. ?

As I said before the fight is between mr nasty and the planners, not you. You have permission to build, if they withdraw after you build something I am sure you are in a position to sue them. At a previous house of mine , when selling it the solicitors found that the conservatory did not on their records have permission so the buyer wanted to pull out at the last minute. I forwarded my copy of all planning docs and said I was going to sue the council for breach of contract and claim all costs from them, I had a planning consent by courier within hours ?

I think this statement is wrong. As I understand your previous system half the noise generating part of the mechanics was within the house, with a monobloc all the mechanics are outside the house (except a pump and buffer tank). Nearly all central heating systems be they gas or oil will have a pump within the house and fairly quiet (depending where they are). The buffer tank is to create a bigger volume of water to stop the ASHP starting and stopping often (cycling) which makes it inefficient. The cupboard containing the buffer tank and pump can be sound insulated if it’s found to be annoying, not difficult and easy to DIY. why don’t you post up the spec of what they want to fit and we can collectively comment on its suitability. ?

My electrician split our house left to right so if a trip went it left some light on the same floor, not heard of that before but made sense.

I tend to agree, my knowledge is based on fighting fir planning and winning on appeal. I agree that mr Evil is challenging the councils planning permission , you are an “interested party” purely because the planning permission Was for your build. If it were me I would crack on with the build, you have not been ordered to stop building (have you?), so until you do, get on with it. ?

Mentioned by David Attenborough on green planet last night, mono culture is ripe for Disease and disaster.

Call me a pessimist but I always like a slope. ?‍♂️

@Bex welcome, you don’t show where you are, if near Bristol I can recommend someone. Lime is breathable and better fir older properties, others will be along shortly to give further advise

Bolster driven between timbers with a big lump hammer will cut some nails if not too thick. If not the gap created will allow an angle grinder with 1mm steel blade to get in there.

Like your plumber i think it looks like a flow problem (hence the pump replacement) my manifold has flow indicators on each loop, can’t see any on yours?

Welcome, so difficult to tell without actually seeing it, might be best to get a few quotes, that will be more accurate.

That’s a bit of a blanket statement and I would disagree with you for the areas I have dealt with over the years (Bristol and Devon).

Yes my re badged Kingspan unit has one temp which I set to 48’, the UFH buffer tank stat is set to 35’, the blending on the manifold is set to 28’, the DHW over rides the heating when it’s required, my Unit is 5KW.

I guess it depends on how over stretched BCO,s are after Covid etc.

Yes my local BCO was good, not a jobs worth and always helpfull.

I agree with @ProDave. Insulation in the eaves is simple, foam those gaps and add as much insulation as you can, add as much to the floor of that bit as well. With the sloping ceilings you could either remove the plasterboard and add to what’s there already or simply add insulated plasterboard to what’s there already. However if the original insulation is as poor as the stuff in the eaves, removing the plasterboard will give you the chance to make it better, foam gaps, add more then plasterboard and skim. I am very sure you can improve on those windows.