joe90

Nor me (great minds think alike eh?)

That sounds very dodgy to me, £700 for 9 lines!!!!!. What tests is he talking about? When we sold my parents house after they passed away the buyer got a survey done and they made unreal assumptions condemning the place, I wrote to the buyer and the surveyor telling them I had lived in the house for some 25 years and was witness to work that had been done and the assumptions were just plain wrong and not worth the paper it was written on (rant over).

No because it’s still hitting solar panels and warming the air 🤷‍♂️

Fingers crossed, with my appeal the inspector sided with me on all counts.

Despite having fought planners a few times (and won) I have no evidence of corruption but I would call them generally inept, full of self importance and blinkered in their approach. I am sure they are also underfunded which can’t help.

I did notice it and sealed it afterwards, but as you say, droughts are easily noticeable with smoke of some sort (I used joss sticks).

See @Redbeard comments above, when I was interested in building with straw I went on a couple of builds as a volunteer , very informative .

Really depends on the original contract with the builder. It’s called snagging, worth trying your builder but if he won’t or says it was not included in the price then cr@ck on I guess.

Bricks are not waterproof, it’s just their evaporation rate is higher than their absorption rate. I don’t think flashing is an issue, top of a gable wall will always get the worst of the weather hitting it. It only becomes a problem if freezing causes spalling (frost blows the surface of the brick off). Or damp penetrates the wall. You could treat the gable wall with a waterproofing agent but only when it’s completely dry.

Looking google mate, well done you 👍

Come on, don’t be negative, we all started somewhere. Everyday is a school day 👍

Then again I suggest no consistency across LPA,S. ours wanted samples. How can you purchase and plan in case the council reject what you have bought. @Simmon I suggest you ask your LPA, what they want, pictures or samples.

I sent samples, the brick company gave me brick slips of the type I wanted to use so the council could see actual rather than pictures (which often don’t match reality or give texture.) there was a thread here years ago where the council specified a very expensive slate and named the quarry it came from, the chap here found a much cheaper slate that looked identical, wrote the quarry name on the back of the sample slate and the council accepted it 🤷‍♂️

In the above it states “the final palette of materials will be subject to a pre-commencement condition requiring samples and further info”. So why not give them samples of the bricks etc you want to use 🤷‍♂️

Very shoddy IMO but limited to a small area (perhaps he forget to go back to that bit.)

Not if you really want your parcel,🤷‍♂️ unless needing signed for just leave in a safe place

Why would you want to remove the plaster, if the surface is rough this can be skimmed to give a nice finish, likewise the ceilings if they are not cracked and even if they are you can overboard and skim and save lots of mess. Re wire to bring up to standard is a good idea and will need floorboards etc moving. Yes doing stuff yourself will save you money but things like plastering and electrics are best left to professionals.

Yes I had a box full but chucked them when I moved 🤷‍♂️

Why? It may well pull plaster from the wall, cut it flush and fit new board tight with a bead of caulk to cover the join. If your new window board is thicker than what’s there it won’t fit the gap anyway 🤷‍♂️

I used an indoor laser level at night with the glasses on. Stood the laser on a 1m stand and a pole with a tape measure stuck to it I carried around . At night the laser was strong enough to be seen at quite a distance or with the glasses on looked into it.

Difficult to predict as it will be plastered in and probably glued down, you could cut it level with the reveals with a oscillating multi tool, cut any silicone along the back edge and see if you can prize/lift it up.

I am not sure we can assess the problem from those photos, the report should IMO give more info on the problem. Old timbers can distort a fair bit without causing real problems.

No reason anyone should flout rules, it could set a precedent I agree, a neighbour in Devon had a park home (we rented till my build was finished) but that was on a steel chassis that was lifted in in two sections so move able.

+1

Your architect will draw the plans and a copy goes to the B+B supplier so thst everything fits.