joe90

Why do you want to seal the brickwork? Do you have penetrating damp on a non cavity wall?

Have you considered demolishing and rebuilding?, allows you to claim VAT back on it all and gives you a chance to build a very well insulated new home foundations and all..? Photo,s and your “wants” please.

Any glass in a door or next to it must be safety glass so cracking is not a problem. No idea about thermal properties of one or two panes.

Used as thermal barriers and solar filters. Without changing the composition of the glass itself, it is used to improve thermal and solar performance of float glass.

And spiders by the look of it!

It’s only plastic why not destroy it?,

I really think it depends on the insulation on the rest of your house, with my passive esk build I went for good double glazing as going triple only made a small difference to the overall U value. If your house is built to passive standards then triple will give you the best result and not be a weakest link, if not then double, with coatings might well be suffice (and lighter!).

Yes that shouts bodge, the bricks should be lowered even further and the guttering etc finished properly. Give him the opportunity to do it properly but don’t pay any more whatever you do (and don’t let him back).

Not really, a judge decided for me 🥹, ( it’s nice to be nearer family now, and the Forest is great).

See, can’t leave it alone can you 🤣

Very nice, well done 👍 (when’s your next build starting 🤣)

Oh, just found the first socket is supplied by a 3 pin plug in the kitchen (13 amp fuse) and a fancy consumer unit in the workshop has a 63 amp incomer 🙄. I liked my new build, at least I knew it was all wired properly.

They are often used in rental common corridors to stop lights being left on.

Just checking the electrics to my new workshop and I came across this in an outhouse, wiring to the workshop STARTS in a socket, then it’s fed from an existing socket in the outhouse and connected by this…… beggars belief. Trust me I am all for DIY as long as you have some basic knowledge at least. No wonder there are regs. It stops people being killed.

Yes it looks cool as it is, best conditions for a pantry. Don’t try to make it part of the house, lots of work insulating, heating etc which will detract from a proper pantry conditions. Can you turn that window into a door, external type, to access your “cool” larder. (I always wanted a cool larder).

Just outside Bristol someone built a “wonky” pub to replicate a sagging, leaning old building, I remember reading an article about how the builders found it more difficult not to build it straight and level (looked good tho). Yes I hope they replicate it.

Yes I thought mares tail as well, roots go down meters apparently, I had it in a cottage in Shropshire, a right mare (🤣) to get rid of but spraying as you say repeatedly is you best bet I recon.

10mm for basins is more than adequate and less dead leg and time and water wasted waiting for hot water.

But you are “doing it” (eventually) 🤔

Oh no you won’t 🤣 (Christmas is coming, eventually, like summer), bring it on, remember there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking. We have all “been there, done that” so lots of real world advise not salesmen BS.

I would not bury a p trap in a concrete floor with no wriggle room to fit the bath, why not use a bath trap https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-bath-trap-white-40mm/84362. Above slab, short length of 40mm pipe then 90’ bend down into concreted pipe work, far more flexibility and you are able to change/clean the trap in future. Also with this you don’t have to sweat about accurately placing the under slab pipe work.

No but he should have been “gas safe” registered. Don’t worry about that as long as there is no gas in that pipe 👍.

So the answer is no, great, I just wanted to raise it as a possible issue 👍

But does the pipe still hold gas?, it needs removing (regs as far as I am aware).

Is that a gas pipe and is it live (connected)? I would get it removed if you are blanking off the opening. The surround and the “marble” needs removing, the blocks to each side are just to reduce the “builders opening “ to the size of the fire surround and can be left in place. Secondly is that a ventilation hole at the back of the opening to fresh air? If so you don’t need ventilation into the room like I said above.