ToughButterCup

Evidence, evidence, evidence. Exactly @PeterStarck. Camera on order, arriving tomorrow. Now that I think of it, there are lots of little jobs I have for such an implement.

Always up for a challenge old chap. Keeps me off the streets.

But in our case, that assumption would have been wrong . An exception to reaffirm your rule, mabe?

Hit to whom? The seller or the potential buyer? Do you mean the last 9 months of the 12 year rule? (i.e. permission was given 11 years 3 months ago)

Nick, all the steelwork is outside the heated envelope, and so there is no need to insulate it. Nothing goes through the Durisol insulation, except the M16 threaded bar, but that terminates within the concrete. So there is a small cold-bridge, mitigated by the internal insulation.

Hmmm, @ProDave and @jamiehamy It's Germanic-Me that's thinking of the BCO.... message understood No, @jamiehamy, both structures are said to be independent. I know from experience that the house has stood many (named) storms so far with no ill effect - a few trades people have commented that any other build system (they know about) would have blown down by now. But the steels need to be rock solid too; and given this hiccup (thank God I found it!) I'm proceeding with caution. Thanks very much for your help. Ian

Steels are up! After a fashion: with our build, there's always a twist so read on! First have a look at this....... We finished late last night SWMBO is really happy, and, to an extent so am I. The L shaped steel structure is secured to the floor with Thunder bolts, and will be secured to the wall with 16mm threaded bar embedded in the Durisol block. So far so simple. There was a gale last night , and attack of wind if you like : a useful gale, because it made me think hard. The purpose of this post is to ask you to check my thinking and offer relevant comments before I talk to the SE and Durisol. Many of you will remember the hiccup we had recently with the wall collapse (If not read this) And I am quite prepared to accept that that experience is colouring my thinking too much; but here goes. For those of you who are unfamiliar with Durisol block, here is a brief introduction - to understand the rest of this, it's worth a quick look (Links to an image search for Durisol: you only need to understand what it looks like) The vertical columns (steels) are attached to walls with threaded bar. It's that 16mm threaded bar connection that concern me. Because I cannot guarantee the continuity of the concrete within the Durisol blocks: it is that concrete into which I drill and attach the threaded bar and secure with Fischer Resin mortar One of the holes I drilled through the blocks showed that there was no concrete there at all. (The drill went straight through and out the other side of the block) Normally that lack of continuity will not not matter one little bit. But it does matter when the integrity of another structure depends in part on the attachment to the wall. Proposed Strategy Talk the issue with the architect (already done - strategy agreed) Talk to you all Think it through again on the light of the above and Ring Tanners (our SE) Ring Dursiol - maybe ask them to visit Agree problem solution : Talk to BC and ask for a visit before doing the following - Proposed problem solution Examine each of the current drilled holes with an inspection camera: checking to see 100% concrete continuity Attach the steel columns to those holes which 'pass' the test Create another series of attachment points by; identifying 5 further attachment points and exposing the concrete behind the insulation by cutting out that insulation entirely verifying the quality of the concrete drilling into it to create five more attachment points (one per hole) replacing some of the insulation and backfilling with cements and PVA mix. Bit of a faff, but I have realised that technical reassurance that (in this case) the structure is self-supporting is not enough. I need to know deep down in my gut that the structure is rock solid. The psychology is as important as the technical stuff.

Well, if you put it like that...... I was thinking of just leaving the green felt there and putting counter battens on top of it, and then proper membrane on top, followed by battens and tiles in the normal way. Why? Lazy. (Normal? Ha! Exceptional i.e. once only - ever - for me)

Get thee behind me Satan......... Give me fifteen good reasons why.

No @Declan52: I wish Soudal would do, but it won't. I need to anchor a stainless threaded bar in the wal.....

And everyone else is jealous of you being on fire, and watch your every move for signs of your bum being on fire too.

...in more ways than one. Its OK, I'll get my coat.

Yes. I drilled into a Durisol block hoping to fix a stainless threaded bar in the concrete. And found fresh air. The cure is to make a thin mix of cement and PVA and, using a mortar gun, pour it into the 16mm hole I made (for the threaded bar), and wait. I love trowel work, and won't be using the mortar gun unless I have a good reason not to use a trowel. Ian

I need a mortar gun: never used one, I know what they look like, and they are widely available. I bet, though, there are those I should avoid. Recommendations, please. Thanks Ian

First of all, welcome. In relation to every single one of your points, you'll have many happy fire-side hours reading the relevant stuff on this site. It's yet another job in addition to the ones you already have. We'll try and make it easier for you: it's often a good idea to tell us about the work you have done towards answering the questions you pose - it helps us give more focused responses. BTW, what's epsilon got to do with greed? Ian

Spill some paraffin.

Folks... should I leave the green felt in place (see OP above) under the counter battens when I fit them? Or should I take it off first, then fit the counter battens? I intend to fit Cromar Vent3 PRO over the counter battens.

Just down the road from us. I'm dreadfully tempted to abuse my Admin powers and delete this thread - only a matter of time before SWMBO will be 'letting me have her way' purely for reference and research purposes naturally.

Think of this issue as a small hint about your builder....

And in one simple post, you've illustrated the key thing about self-building: the need for persistence. Yes, I for one would like a general indication of how much it has cost you: no need for detail. It will help to counter the oft repeated saw that self-builders are made of money.

Got it. Thanks Ian

No, but yes if necessary. The Devil is in the detail, and at this time of year, speed will be of the essence. Our final roof covering is set to be shakes (not shingles): that is split oak. The shakes are merely decorative, the construction below that is still a bit of mystery to me, but as usual I know all I have to do is plug away at it, and I will get there. I don't think it'll take more than a week to research it thoroughly. Its a warm, vaulted roof with 9 by 2 rafters, so that should be fun

What's Debbie's Day rate @nod ?

Worth reformatting your advice making quick and easy to scan and remember What about the three mm gap (between slates) that this bloke talks about @Declan52? (At 2:47, ostensibly to aid lateral spacing....)

You are bang on with our thinking too: cement filleted verges and wet ridge is what we'd thought. And 250 by 500 is what the man from NW Roofing supplies suggested. The piggery is for storage - at the moment. But I took the precaution of 'connecting' the Piggery to the house by inserting four piles between the two buildings, so that at some stage we might link the house to the piggery without the set up costs of another piling session. The total added cost was £120 -instead of several thousand. I don't fully understand gauging yet: but I will by the end of this weekend. Thats what I love about BH: if you stick at it for long enough there is an answer to every question - you just need to be persistent.