ToughButterCup

A Bosch, anal, and lacking experience always falls back on - Das muss Millimeter perfekt sein Junge ! For me, Tommy, ze vorrying is over. Jawohl !

They could serve a Stop Notice on you. Have a look on your Council website - the Planning bit - and see if there have been any Stop Notices served this century. If there are, read them and have a look at their thresholds for action - if , recently, anyone has a Stop Notice in a use case similar to yours then be a little cautious. If I were in your shoes, I think I'd just get on with it. If all the bits of paper are in, why on earth would they bother to make their own lives harder? Just do it.

My hands aren't what they used to be; so in cutting 110 soil pipe, I need to make some sort of jig to hold it. I came up with this jig - and I'm hoping some of the nerd herd ( @Onoff's term not mine -but it's a good one) who have done this task a lot will put me right. Two bits of 4 by 2 a little over 110 mm apart, fixed to a bit of 9 by 2. That in turn is screwed to the bench top (a scaffold board). It's a bit wider than 110 to allow me to grip the pipe so it doesn't turn. My hands just won't / haven't got enough 'spread' or power to grip the pipe any more. This is the jig The old dressing gown enables the pipe to be gripped a bit ... But this is the wobbly result .... maybe a different type of saw would help? I suppose I could file the end smooth and square - I was very tempted to put the pipe through the crosscut saw: cowardice or caution -- not sure which stopped me.

This what I use, I have often been accused of over-engineering things. 120mm Thunderbolts

Wish I'd known about that system; I seem to be thinking that quite often, recently.

and make sure you tip it into the barrow directly over its center of gravity otherwise .... a-swearing you will go ...

Hmmm Clive, my speed-reading ain't wadit ewestabee.

Piece of plywood will do (maybe not OSB) ... or one of these. Always rinse them off before the muck goes hard.....? and work out in advance how not to swill the mixture off into yer mum's flower-bed (like I did ?)

Good for you son. Keep yer brain engaged. Most of the old-hands on this board have no idea that they know massive amounts of stuff. They've forgotten how long they have been learning, forgotten how hard-won - and sometimes bitterly so - their experience is. That pain is long forgotten. Now, to them, its all second nature. In the research papers on learning its called encultured knowedge. Long serving teachers suffer the same phenonmenon too. But its not second nature to you or me.

@zoothorn , I know exactly how you feel (felt ?) , I think. I didn't have a clue when I started mixing 'muck' four years ago. So I did lots of research and - gently - asked what to some were annoying questions - many people have no idea why they mix concrete as they do - and many YooChube videos later, if anything my level of understanding was worse, cos there's nowt like Tinternet for shared ignorance. And for something as simple as this? Well, it isn't. The variations and permutations of what you can / should / might / ought to do are endless. Very few instructional videos start with a simple statement of the end-in-mind, fewer still explain why the videographer did not use techniques that one might reasonably expect. Because doing that is hard. But you can START simple. And begin to learn to enjoy making mistakes. Took me a while did that.

Used mine for the first time yesterday. Hooked it up to a Bosch crosscut saw and a Bosch Hoover (its own current sensing device never worked). There's a five second delay in both 'spool-up' and ''' spool down ' time. Works fine. I'll try using the Hoover as the master and crosscut and table saws as the slaves next.

Is that all you need - dont you 'have' to insulate all the way inside the duct ? I ask, because that's my (almost) next job. Before UU comes to make the connection. Real next job is go down the pub. I've had one o' them days.

And the newts, God, the newts, they'll chew through anything.?

Mark at Pro Wood said exactly that : sometimes supplies of a type of wood 'dry up' for a wide range of reasons.

Practical example - happened a few minutes ago: talking to Alex one of their their senior guys : price of Siberian Larch. (Pro Wood Wigan) Pro Wood is most exposed to the value of the pound internationally. He cant see the value of the pound being stable in the near future. Order going in a little later today when I've had a more precise measure up ....

Your question, perhaps light hearted, is important. Who funds the study? The manufacturer? If so the conflict of interest is obvious. Is that why Topps Tiles (can / have to) charge so much more for their PTV (pendulum test value) tested tiles? Might be worth a dig around one of these days - when I've nowt else to do. ?

I bumped into this reasonably informative section of a commercial website: slip testing. I'm told there are better resources, and I'll append the links here later.

Sure you need piles? I have a feeling you could be crossing an unnecessary bridge.... maybe?

Our house design has an internal soil stack. So we need to think about noise. Have a look at this diagram. The brilliant thing about our design is that the wetroom is built onto the front wall of the house - so (below the level of the flat roof shown) there are insulated blocks inside the heated envelope. That means we can cut out the insulation and use the space created for other things - like hide a soil stack. And deaden the noise. But I only get one stab at this little problem. I need to get it right. So I'd like to fit acoustic piping (like this) or (maybe this) additionally encapsulate the acoustic pipe in sound-deadened (proofed is impossible I think) trunking. maybe double the amount of plasterboard on the ceiling under the upstairs bathroom meet and exceed the proofing levels required in Part E Have you had to deal with a similar problem? How did you work it out? Is the general approach outlined above sensible? Do you have any comments. I'm feeling a bit 'exposed' on this one.....

Look on the bright side Gary. Use the down-time to plan your next house. ?

At your suggestion, I looked through my email trail, no joy - consigned to the electronic dustbin. Annoyingly, the company was recommended to me by our architect. He did have the good grace to blanche visibly when, in a formal meeting, I presented him with the evidence. Your best defence is a thorough understanding of all the content here - and the content of all the links. You do know about H2 don't you? Just in case here's the link : page 38 etc seq.

I'd love a photo of the soles of your twinkle-toes. You got summat I want - like really really want (man).

Fame at last. Cancel the Knighthood, don't need it any more. I've started repaying my debt to yer man. ?

@StuPen, : if this is your forever house you can be more relaxed about it. Key issue is are you thinking that you might well sell some time in the future? 2020 isn't that far away. You might like to consider making an offer on the basis of the property needing work done. Paul Usher is highly likely to give you straight answers to straight questions. I have a small digester that's currently being commissioned. Cost for everything - tank - works - pipe - electrics, round about £5500. Digging one out and putting a similar system in - add another £2000. Oh nearly forgot - proper survey £500. (or free but beware of drainage specialists offering free gifts - here, have a laugh or grimace, as you like)

Paul Usher from Klargester. Top bloke. Straight as a die : in my direct experience, rare in this sector. Tell him Ian from Salamander Cottage referred you ( no commercial link)