Russell griffiths

Hormann is a good make, they always look nice at the shows. if I was having a roller I would have one.

Do you want tough industrial looking, or thin and flimsy, or insulated. is it a room you want to work in so needs to be a bit more comfortable. you literally only get what you pay for, a £600 rollerdoor will be as thin as a bean tin. a rollerdoor will require a fair bit of headroom above the door for it to roll up into.

Are you having mvhr, I would presume so. have a look at the units and the ductwork going to them. Then you have a cylinder and all associated manifolds. if the mvhr is going somewhere else then it’s plenty big enough.

I think your plant room is too small and wrongly placed, if you are having vaulted ceilings you need to work out a plan of how to get services to all the areas of the house. for example you will need 2x90mm ducts to the far master bed, how will you get these across the living area. the plant is located at the end where the glasshouse and garage are, but neither of these will require much from the plant room. just a thought lots of planning needed, it’s easy to draw a pretty picture, but trying to build it can soon tear chunks out of that picture trying to get the services from A to B.

As above 25mm will not be big enough for the power feeds i have 3 going out to my unit, 2 data which are tiny.

You need to build it to comply with building regs, I don’t care about your planning, but for future use if you allow anybody to sleep in it and you have a fire and somebody is hurt they will crucify you. what if after the build you want to chuck it on air b+b, it will need to have a fire safety plan to let it. doing it right will not cost much more and you will end up with a usable building, doing it on the cheap I bet two or three years after you move out it will be scrap. have you looked at the timber cabins and add more insulation and stuff. I agree about renting £25 grand down the drain build something that will be useful. will the house have a big garage. how about a big triple garage with granny flat above, build that first and it’s there forever.

Double or triple up the ledger and make it more of a structural item, support it from both ends, and bolt to the wall. without proper pictures or diagrams it’s hard to say, is this just a small flat roof.

That’s a big opening I might stop and re think this situation, we don’t know enough about the whole job. can you not enlarge that timber so it spans the same opening and only needs the fixings into the brickwork above.

What does the lintel span, if it’s only a short opening then I think the risk of damage to the lintel is minimal i would use a resin and threaded rod not a bolt that expands.

Roughly every 200mm you can go 150 around the perimeter, but if it’s well stuck on thats ott, every 300 would still be ok. are you boarding over that timber ? if so I would have boarded that first to make sure your lower wall is in line.

That’s a nice looking house.

If you want to go high end you can get a system that has an edge strip that clips onto the rails, so it provides an upstand, so no retaining walls or edging curbs. you can also get a system that looks like decking, but uses porcelain tiles the long 1200 x300 strips.

Do a base layer of crushed concrete, then type 1 fit 20mm porcelain slabs on pedestal bases with an open joint, you can then re align them every couple of years by lifting the slabs and re adjusting the pedestals.

Put the guesstimated water in a bucket, add the powder,whisk with a power drill, put the half bag in the corner for later use. Easy as that.

Can you not dot n dab it with flexible tile adhesive then when it’s gone off screw it up with any type of galvanised screw and plug.

90% of what you buy will be chipboard core with a fancy timber on the face. unless you want to spend big bucks. I’ve just had a couple of nice looking doors £250 each, still chipboard core.

Insulation levels look inadequate. has this passed building control.

Look into a company called triton, they do all liquid type membranes, painted on and then screed over the top. the weak areas will be your details at junctions.

Nope, drill the holes in the foundation, minimal needed as it’s not a basement, resin fill and fit some short starter bars.

Cut the bottom two treads off, prop the stairs and make a plywood box for temporary access chuck the plywood box outside while you dig and concrete. when repairing the stairs you could re shape the bottom two treads to give you a nice big bull nose bottom step or something like this. I bought a new staircase and purposely made it two stairs high so I could tile under it and we hadn’t decided if to have a bull nose bottom step or more modern square look.

Ditch all your previous ideas. go and look at some ICF block ideas. either build that entire wall out of icf blocks, or build one or two courses as high as you need. build them up from your ground beam to the height you need and core fill with waterproof concrete. then tank the outside as though it is below ground level, you can either carry on and build your TF from the top of the icf or continue up in icf. if you continue up in icf you can pour every couple of courses and reach over to apply a waterproof render to the outside as you go up. also, why is your floor stepped, can you not lift the lower floor up to match the higher portion, not clear in the photo why it is stepped.

Do you mean packed the frame in the brick work, or packed the glass in the frame.

You can buy lots of things, doesn’t mean they meet building regs. that’s a tight door in a modern house nowadays 838mm on every opening here. Except one cupboard.

I don’t have any brickwork to marry up with windows or doors, just icf. So the rough opening was 30mm larger than the door in the first place.

I have a couple of heavy doors i fitted a rip of 12mm ply the same thickness of the frame directly to the frame, as a packer, I then cut a rip of 18mm ply the same width of the frame and the internal reveal. I used the 18mm ply as a full length bracket, you can fix anywhere you need, lots of fixings at hinge areas. the 12mm packing ply is the exact thickness of plasterboard, so you can plasterboard straight on to the 18mm covering the fixings and it will sit perfectly gapped all around the frame.