JamesP

Have had a quick look and the dpm is mostly cut short next to bottom of sole plate. I would just try and protect soleplate from water splashes, also fitted rodent stainless steel mesh behind cladding. I wrapped the breather membrane underneath the 40mm pavatherm, green. I extended the Cedar 50mm below batten to protect the sole plate. Once board, 2 x batten and cladding fitted probably 75mm proud of render face. Dodgy drawing enclosed. I would not create a pocket where damp could remain in B.

Enclosed a drawing of sole plate detail on my build, not a builder but I brought the 40mm pavatherm flush with the sole plate and lapped the dpc under. Then batten, counter batten and Cedar. I would not leave it exposed. Would bring the medite board level with block and sole plate. Others will have ideas.

With a tray 1200mm is fine as @Kelvin.

Are you using a tray or flush wet room floor? We have overhead rain showers with a wet room walk in shower tray kit, 900mm x 1800mm. Fitted a 1400mm x 1950mm shower screen secured with a horizontal bar at the open end. It works fine and not obtrusive. Anything shorter and water would exit past the screen. I would consider losing the 800mm screen and fitting a 1400mm only. Easy access. Fit 50mm waste if not too late.

I use flexible tile adhesive usually on 6mm or 12mm cement board base. Your existing floor and joists need to be solid.

Quick scan at your drawings. Not dissimilar to our build, as @ProDave make sure you have a ridge beam, try and get 1.5m before roof pitch starts. Make sure Velux are accessible by hand or automate and consider external blinds if possible. Make sure the other bedroom window can open, do not rely on Velux for cross ventilation. I would rotate the kitchen island 90' anti clockwise and change hob to sink. Consider how to address overheating and cooling issues now. Lose the chimney / fireplace for a stove / flue. Spend on airtightness. This bedroom photo is 6.2 metres wide with some built in draws / cupboards. 1.5m to the eaves.

Same spec as your Lindab, 125mm Half round Majestic, 87mm downpipes. Cannot fault it, excellent quality, design and fitting. Just the cost, I have 78 metres of guttering. Your fascia detail looks fine to me in the drawing, all my feather edge on 25mm batten. I had to make a combined fascia / soffit board out of Douglas fir due to the overhang.

@Stones Maybe it does have a fault or I misunderstand the indoor & outdoor temperature settings. I think I should set the indoor temp as low as possible, 16c and the outdoor as high, 20c to enable bypass. The Outdoor Temp screen enables you to choose the minimum outdoor temperature at which the bypass will operate in degrees Centigrade – only displayed when the bypass is fitted.

So 5 years in and think I now understand the summer bypass has minimal effective function in the warmer months. It's 16c outside, it's midnight but the air supplied is at 23c with summer bypass on or off. I naively assumed with the bypass on it would supply the external temperature and have a moderate cooling effect. Is the heat exchanger supplied by the extracts? Help.

I made and fitted the fascia boards first before fixing the horizontal Douglas fir cladding. Does that help?

@AdamSee Yes, lots of hanging around by the fingertips.

My son made some sort of hangboard? above the door, he removed architrave then used long wafer screws to fix through to stud work. Not moving. Then left home.

@Tom Home made cut stringer yet to be finished, temporary hand rail etc....yours looks fine.

Have a look here. https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk

Marshalls Driveline Priora https://www.bradfords.co.uk/product-mar426-driveline-priorar-permeable-paving-200-x-100-x-60mm-charcoal-8-08m2?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21419188078&gbraid=0AAAAAC3XVZy1CYchyxu_zsJB-bDxfT6NZ&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3PD41r2mjgMVAIFQBh0wMiUCEAQYAyABEgJ7U_D_BwE

I had a problem with being recommended and purchased a Vent Axia based only on area and not volume. All based on 2.4m ceiling heights. Due to exceptional ceiling heights in 50% of our dwelling the MVHR could not reach the minimum requirements for building control even at 100% boost. I had to be a little creative with figures for BC to pass. However our MVHR runs 24/7 at 30% and seems adequate for our needs. The Zehender 600 has an air volume of up to 600m3/h at 200Pa.

@flanagaj Like you we are south facing and have no shading so do overheat. I plumbed for AC in the first floor bedrooms and the main family room as seemed simplest to install. We have PV so running cost is offset and have ASHP for DHW and heating. We cross ventilate in the evening to purge the house as @Russdl. Would consider built in external blinds ( no view, natural light during the day) and solar glass next time.

Definately deserve a beer but careful now as you will be asked to make fitted wardrobes next! It happens. The Kreg is a bit unnecessary as cheaper tools for hinges are available.

I have just done this, WC, shower, sauna and a kitchen sink. We have a Vortex TP, simple but functional design with an air bubbler. Its about 30 metres from the house. No penetrations through the building as @Nickfromwales mentioned. Scrappy image below.

I have a vent pipe about a metre before the treatment plant main inlet and an AAV just above upstairs WC. Did not want a vent pipe penetrating the building. BC happy with that.

I have been using this on Cedar, did buy 5 tester pots of different product but settled on this: https://www.protekwoodstain.co.uk/wood-stain/timber-eco-shield-black

Eminence Front by The Who, Tenth album "Its Hard". 4 tonnes of MOT, no thank you unless you have a digger.

Join the club, half the load and twice the trips.

Had a quick look through the invoices and need to add Anhydrite Liquid Screed to the ground floor, took them a couple of hours. Not working full time (stay at home Dad) and not a builder by profession.