JamesP

That is a poor job as others have mentioned. I used some concrete bolts. It is critical to use the exact size masonry bit and the hole is cleaned out before fitting the bolt otherwise it can split the concrete.

"But we''re setting an example"

I did the render last and it was one of the worst jobs I encountered during the whole build due to the access.

Not sure what stage you are at with your build but I put a direct air supply in the concrete slab if and when we fit a stove.

I agree with @Conor and would put the oven and all the other tall units where the hob is . Move the hob to island and keep the sink in front of the window. Ventilation for the hob is the challenge but doable. I prefer no mid height wall cupboards. You have a plenty of drawers and a pantry. Otherwise option C. Enclosed is a photo of when we just moved in. The island is 2.2m X 1.2m. (just large enough for prep and cooking). The sink work top by the window is 3.6m. We have a pantry 1.6m x 2m through the doorway on the right of the tall cupboards.

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McAlpine Tundish.

@junglejim A couple of poor quality photos enclosed, 2 from 2021 where the vertical Cedar cladding meets the metal cladding and other horizontal cladding (garage) taken just now. I was able to staple the mesh to the timber frame behind the breather membrane and then pull up the front of the batten in a u shape. I had a fixed horizontal batten with a gap at the back for air to circulate between each vertical batten, to confuse you I had a counter batten for the vertical Cedar boards. Its clear in my head!! I did the same at the top of the boards. I used 150mm mesh.

I have just finished cladding the garage and again used the Robinson Soffit Mesh top and bottom of timber.

As @Beau mentions above, we used 25mm X 50mm batten fixed to the wall using similar fixings, very solid with the woodfibre board.

We used one of the Ungerdiffutherm boards, sourced from https://www.backtoearth.co.uk I would give them a call, very helpful. Did not use a vapour barrier if I remember correctly, lots of layers and cost but great final product.

I have just used my details with and without battery storage and no change in fixed rate. Can you confirm which tariff you have. Thank you.

I would recommend wood fibre board insulation. Had a similar stone built barn, battened, wood fibre then lime plaster. Have a read at https://www.mikewye.co.uk/product-category/natural-insulation/wood-fibre-insulation/steico-wood-fibre-insulation/

Hi @mk1_man Thanks for this post. Would you mind sharing a little more information about your set up. We have an annual requirement of about 11MWh annually due to 2 dwellings on site, have PV on 2011 FIT tariff with PV diverter to UVC. All working fine. No EV. Apologises if rather dim questions. Why 2 different types of batteries, You charge only at the cheap rate, no PV connection. How much was this DIY or professional electrician. How does it switch from mains to batteries. Would the plant room with UVC / Consumer units be suitable though a rather constant 24'C. Thanks.

I fitted 300sqm of Tata (Same as Catnic) Colorcoat Urban on our new build, roof with 7 velux and wall with window and door. All doable with simple tools. In 2018 was about £30sqm. You have the skills.

Can anyone offer advice. All been working fine for last 4 years but noticed today that one room ( 3 loops) is constantly heating even though thermostat is not calling for it. Reset and swopped the Neostat with 2 others with no change. Other room thermostats from the same manifold work correctly.

I concur. Never used the UFH upstairs just tiles in main bathroom need a little heat occasionally and electric matting would have been ideal. @miike Great thread.

I had roller marks on the supplied and fitted 3G windows which the installer did eventually replace. Can you compare them to another installation?

Enclosed is TT wall buildup. With typo (1000mm).

Great blog, thanks for all the info and photos.

I like this approach, was a very enjoyable (long) part of my build. Last shot before Cedar cladding fixed.

Next thought, as these timber steps have been in place for 4 years I just need to improve the support underneath and would then use tile adhesive to fix tiles.

I do not think weight would be an issue so would probably make 5 sets of blockwork steps, we have 70mm screed with UFH on top of 150mm Celotex then 100mm concrete. I am only a self builder not a professional.

I made these timber steps for an 80cm differential as a stop gap but still in use today. Will need better support in the middle to stop creaking before being finished in limestone to match hall. Or might remove and do blockwork. Its on the list.

This is a detail from our vaulted ceiling. As specified by Structural Engineer.