Steptoe
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Posts
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Everything posted by Steptoe
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On the non standard back box issue, That may be as simple as requiring a deeper than standard back box, ie, 35 or 45mm as opposed to 'standard' being 25mm.
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firstly I'd avoid any type of selv light like the plague, energy inefficient, and one more thing to go wrong, the only thing you need to be concerned about with putting lights in a soffit is suitable for the area they are installed in almost any interior fitting [of reasonable quality] is almost suitable for installation on a soffit,
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no matter what sort of spray gun you use you should always 'sieve' the paint, you can get special filter paper for it, or, at a push, use a coffee filter
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so we'll be back to red white and blue cable then to further enforce our national identity, Ive heard a rumour Scotland will be green white and blue, and Ireland [both bits] will be green white and orange , or orange white and green depending what bit you are in
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apart from the slab, the door, the airtightness, and lots of other stuff, my shed is done with 40mm kingspan, or equivalent, off ebay, its too warm in the summer, and cosy in the winter, I need to fit a bigger, and more, fans to move the air during the warm days. anyone, and everyone, thats comes into it just cant believe just how warm it is, even when the snow is on the roof, which I think says a lot about how well insulated it is, partially.
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one of the truer statements said on this forum.
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that does sound like a simple pumped system like what @ProDave mentioned earlier, although probably evolved quite a bit since then so not really a proper 'spray' gun as such, just a posh pumped painting method.
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it pressurizes the paint can @ProDave rather than using the air to create a vacuum to suck the paint through, there are other types available, rather cheap rubbish diy things, that are best left on the shelves of B&M or whatever tat shop they are in. by far the easiest for DIY use is the gravity fed air type, ime, even I can get a good finish using one of those.
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I've used them previously, not for spraying houses, but cars and bikes,
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you have to build the structural element first, in your case, the timber frame, then build the covering, in your case the outer blockwork, what you are doing is like trying to build a metal clad shed by screwing all the cladding together first and then trying to build the metal framework afterwards there is nothing there to hold the cladding together.
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Hi @Dee from memory, the ones I have a quite a bit darker than terracotta, but, like most men, I only see in 8 colours, so your version of terracotta may be very different than mine,,,,, I'm just north of Manchester, I should get into the lock-up on Sunday, it really needs a serious clearout,,,, I'll take a picture then.
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EDIT to ADD :- way too late now, but if you are tiling above worktops this will also throw out all you electrical accessory heights if you are tiling/flooring under the units,,,,, not having a go directly, but this is one of the things a lot of people forget when they tell the trades FFL, but what they really mean is FFL without coverings.
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Im not sure how relevant this may be, but, a general rule of thumb for a FFL with no covering is allow 20mm to finishes, ie, door bottoms, as opposed to a FFL with covering is 10mm to finishes, thereby, its a 10mm difference from FFL to FFL with coverings, so, it would indeed seem to make a massive difference to get the decision made now as to the floor coverings.
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guys on site use jacksaws all the time, they seem to be the goto after a hammer, use them for cutting thermalite, soilpipe, kingspan, anything but wood it would seem,,,,,
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you cant render across the dpc, you need to have a seperation, no idea how big, but I'd imaging a couple of inches either side maybe ?
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you can buy a special handsaw for cutting them, but, a load of brickies I know just use a regular jacksaw if they cant be arsed going to the container for the proper saw,
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You need to be level BEFORE you come out of the ground, otherwise, as @Mr Punter said, it will look terrible,
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@Dee Give it a good clean and take another pic, I'll dig one of mine out this weekend and have a look and see just how much of a difference there is. Are they all a standard size,?
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I have a load buried at the back of the lock up, probably a couple of hundred, but, unfortunately, they appear to be a lot darker than the colour your picture suggests. Sorry, that's of no help to you whatsoever,
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I used to do a lot of racing at Pembrey, lovely part of the world,
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I dont honestly know tbh, I've only ever used 8x4 s myself,
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put that board on sideways? that'll give you 2400mm, get a 6x3 board for that bit? but I see where you are, its just a bad size . or, if you put the first board on with a 1000 overhang, then the other side will have an 800 overhang, with the join offset 'centre' above the window.
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are you using full size sheets? or 6x3's
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ok, I understand now, I think, when you get to one side of the window, you dont jump to the other side and then patch in the bit inbetween, you carry on edge to edge,
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why are you using tapered boards? are you going to dry line it or plaster it/ if you are plastering no need for tapered boards, you shouldnt usually have a cut edge meet a tapered board, put the cuts to the corners/walls, mark out the walls and start in the middle-ish if you really need to to avoid having any cuts in line with the openings [but tbh, its not a big issue if you use decent tape] , that way all your cut boards will be in the corners, remember and stagger the joints
