MPH243

If your house is near passive it will be small. Don't bother to individual zone just one. We have a 8.5kw and 260sqm, better than the old building regulations for insulation just under 2 for air tightness. It has easily coped with our heating demand in mid Devon. I need to get mine to cool as overheating in summer is not so nice. Don't bother trying to get your mvhr to cool.

I agree the Klober looks tidy and not bulky.

We have this one it is fine just get a couple of out riggers which I think the tall ones come with. Even at nearly 5m it is fairly stable and simple to put together.

Have you tried any local sawmills, Facebook might be worth a look we have quite a few advertised but we are mid Devon so a bit different. I think as soon as you go over 1.2m it is charged for 2 pallets.

You could try solid oak Scotia mold and make a template of the radius and try to steam it and bend. Or cut them at angles as @Chriswills suggested and join but use the real wood as the wood coloured paper will probably come off the mdf ones.

In England you can move in when you like, I made sure it was all safe for the kids and signed off nearly 2 years after moving in.

FC1 filler caulk is supposed to work to 25mm and non slumping, it did work and non slumping but I don't know if it cracks in the long term.

I have fitted them 14inch in 2 customer houses. One house had 4, 3 flexi tube and 1 rigid, the rigid is a lot brighter than flexi so I would go with the 10inch rigid in the middle. If it has no windows now, even a small amount of light will make a huge difference.

Sorry, I did not mean to sound silly but I meant the connectors. I had a set and it was a one way valve that got connected in the wrong direction, I got fedup and changed to Hozelock it was cheaper to buy a set on offer than individually. And they are colour coded for the waterstop one. https://www.toolstation.com/hozelock-hose-fitting-starter-set/p90177

Try turning the hose around, I had one that only worked in one direction.

I used SAS pro rend, they are based in Cheriton Bishop, but supplied through RGB.

I used DJP Finishes based in Tiverton/Exeter area. They made a very good job of our house.

Took me a couple of minutes to find that. Does not look like the pier at the other end is tied in as well. At least they have put in the flashing for the roof.

You could try MGA Consultancy in Exeter his tester lives near Bristol and travels the south west, I don't know how much he charges now but I payed £225+vat in 2021.

The Q450 only has one mode and the frost protection works As @JohnMo said, I looked on the app in the cold weather in January to see what it does. I think about 6 or 7% at -5 but I guess depends on humidity levels.

We have the Q450 in a 260sqm house in Devon, we are running at about 75% of building regs flow rate. This is normally about 40% humidity which is fine. The unit goes into a frost protection mode when below freezing, it just reduces air supply by a few percent. The unit is in a cupboard in my sons bedroom which has been soundproofed a bit. The supply vent is louder than the unit.

I have one of these, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08L81K2P4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 they fit sideways but with a news paper slot below. It's quite good and stays dry in heavy rain. The first one got wet with light rain.

That's good at least you know it's not using 130+w each that was mentioned before. It maybe be that like @Conor said and twerk that zone down a bit so it is not coming on so much.

Yes I have the lan C module which was part of the package. It is very good but I did just see how much it is. Just out off interest can you check the usage on the units so we know there usage it is in menu, status and energy also the l/s flow rate. I think your energy use is because the ashp is short cycling with the smaller circuits, I have gone to 1 thermostat as 1 room would call for heat first but did not have enough volume in the system so kept cutting in and out. I only realised because I was outside doing something next to it and it kept cutting in and out. It was using more electric but I can't remember how much. I also have a 8.5kw ecodan.

Have you got the Zehnder comfo control app it will show actual usage, my Zehnder Q450 uses about 40w, I tried it on boost and was 75w then I changed to Max ventilation 167w. This is mine the supply and exhaust need tweaking when I get around to it. Our house is 260sq m and a bit better than building regs.

Yes I think it is a manufacturing default but getting them to admit it is another thing. I think the MDF backing is not glued or compressed very welland does separate in layers. I am planning on tiling most of it in a 2 or 3 years when we can afford it.

I think it is the same as manufacturer as mine Krono 12mm, the kitchen I did glue all the joints as I did want it fairly water resistant and it is fine with no issues. The hallway is doing what yours has. You could see if you can move the joints apart on the ends (I can move the whole row of boards and seperate the joints by kicking the top of the board with trainers on) and glue the ends, I have managed to on the bad ones.

What sort make of flooring is it. I have put down some cheap laminate in our downstairs which has done this, I hoped it would last about 5 years as with 2 young boys you never know what's going to happen. It is just badly made unfortunately as you can walk over the joins and see the flex.

I used the Easyslates on a garage, they were quite easy to fit and and stops any water going sideways off the join with the thin plastic upstands. The only way it could go is to the top of the slate.

As @Russell griffithssaid do not use cling film stuff, I spent about 5 hours 1 evening until 11pm getting up about 1.5sq/m before the customers furniture turned up the next day for them to move in. Antinox and tape to edges cut back for skirting, it will not stop damage from dropping sharp or heavy things, do not cut anything on it either as is no protection to a knife. Hardboard is a good idea