Declan52

Wouldn't have the first clue.

Other side of that wall approx 2m away.

I take it a cable comes from that rcbo and goes into the house, 2m approx, to my CU. Wouldn't have a clue what type of cable it is. Have a multi meter if that is any use.

It's the breaker on the right. The left hand one is power to my shed. I have left it off to rule that out and it still trips with that off.

Main trip outside in the electrical cabinet. Nothing ever trips in the CU.

Have been having an issue with my main breaker in the electrical cabinet randomly tripping out. It might have happened once a year or so this past 9 years so sort of put up with it but from the start of the new year it's happened maybe 4 times. Nothing on my fuse board trips only the main trip outside. As it's not happening frequently enough to unplug appliances and see if that helps I'm at a loss.

What about renting out it and then it stays in the family and later on your kids, grand kids have a home to live in when they are ready.

There is a vast difference in a digger driver and a guy who can drive a digger. To learn that quick to undertake the actual footings is a massive risk. It's a lot harder than you think to dig a straight line and have the bottom flat. That takes a lot of experience. The cost implications of being out of line are massive. Hire a digger driver with his own machine in and give him a hand. Mark the site out and peg the corners and do all the dirty work and let him dig and earn his money. Help with the concreting and the other jobs he needs a hand with. If you really want to hire a digger in do it later on for tidying the place up and putting the road, paths, drainage etc in. There is a lot more scope here to not be as accurate as you need to be when doing the foundations.

A mistake a lot of us have made over the years!!

The mop function looks much better. With more tiles and hardwood flooring it's more the mop quality I'm looking

Been worse if you put her in cast iron

Am holding out for the roborock q revo to get a UK release. Can get it from Latvia but would rather a cat iron warranty.

What ever council your in you will need to phone building control on this area and give them your details of the build and it's location and they will be able to find out which building control inspector has been visiting your build. They will have checked it through the various stages, signing of different aspects as your reached these milestones. If your house is nearly finished they will come out and check whatever you have available to check and find you a list of outstanding things you will need to sort out to get it signed off. They are very reasonable people and I'm sure once you explain the circumstances they will gladly help you along the way. Air test, boiler certificate, check your windows and doors to make sure they have toughen glass of needed, handrails, as built EPC cert etc.. Plenty of things but nothing that isn't easily done.

If you don't need samples after 6m you can do another process called dynamic probing which gives you data rather than actual samples. The smaller rig is more than capable of doing this to over 10m. It's just drives a thin pole, 40mm diameter approx and you count the blows It takes to go down each 1m section. Soft sands could be 4-8 blows and very hard clay could be 50+ and you just stop if you encounter this before you drive the rod in that hard you can't remove it. From this data a structural engineer can determine the strength of what's below.

The smaller rig probably a dando won't get much past 6/7m deep. It's just not powerful enough. This rig uses plastic sleeves to retrieve the material so it's classed as undisturbed which you need for your lab testing. The shell and auger is capable of going 30m deep easily so it's needed to get you to to your 15m depth. It is basically a very heavy weight on a steel tube you drop hundreds of times chipping out what's below so no good for samples. It can perform spt testing which from you can recover a tiny sample, like a big Xmas size tube of smarties.

200m is a long way down so will be a massive rig. That cost plus all the pipe you need plus bentonite gravel etc to seal it up and all the associated ground works will be easily more expensive than an ashp. I would as above work out your heat demand and get a price for an ashp and then compare both systems.

Welcome. Your house is Definitely not built from mica blocks??? Render will be easy enough fixed. Old plaster giving issues will be removed and new plaster with waterproof additives can be used to seal it.

The drilling rig most companies use to get to 6m would be a small tracked machine that fits in a large van and realistically you should be able to do 6 boreholes to 6m in a single day. This would include any samples that need taken plus geotechnical testing if required and a standpipe put in to monitor gas and water. But to go to 30m your into bigger rotary machines, doubt shell and auger type rig would be able to get to that depth in a hard ground. That's why the cost increases quite a lot. These rigs need a lorry to transport it to and from site and a large compressor all which cost more. If your lucky and some investigation work has been pretty close by, next field, then you might get some information using this site which might allow you just to do the shallow depths. https://www.bgs.ac.uk/information-hub/borehole-records/

I removed your phone number @Gus Potteras the big bad world is full of strange people who can cause trouble. If @ash_scotland88wants your number he can PM you.

@Gus Potter would be the guy your looking.

Don't worry to much every single person sooner or later during their build hits the wall and questions why da fook did I ever start this. Just remember how far you have come and what the prize is at the end. It's not an easy thing to do for anyone even those with lots of experience of construction still find it difficult.

Welcome paddy. Did the planning permission come with a set of drawings for a house or guidelines which to have to follow for a house of your own design?? What route you take well depend more on your build method. Have you any preference towards a block build or timber frame or another method.

Why is your screed 135mm thick. That seems very very thick compared to what normally would be used. A flow screed you can go down to 50mm and a sand cement based screed 75mm. What kind of screed are you using as this will impact how you put a joint in??

I would say you are happy with this amount considering it's nearly 1/4 of what was calculated.