Big Jimbo

You do apply in Dacorum at the same time., and i got my letter saying that my PP is exempt from CIL. I know that if i put electrics or drainage in i will have to comply with building regs.

Temp. I don't know which is why i'm asking. Currently i have a small Bungalow, and full PD rights. Why would i need to get a CIL exemption for a 30sq mt shed in my garden ? Why would building my large shed now, before i start my extension, as advised by the planning officer, be a problem. Would this invalidate the CIL exemption i have got (only property) on my bungalow extension ???

I would like to think that 30 sq mt is considered small ( exempt from building regs ) I do have CIL exemption. I had to apply for it at the same time as my planning permission. ??????

That looks great. I did similar on my sisters kitchen, I tiled an area with huge tiles. masked them up, and squirted Silicon in . Smoothed off, peeled the masking, and done.

he did go and check my permission, and said that had my application shown any existing structures, that he would have included that "All existing structures have to be removed before implementing the permission. However, because i had no existing garden structures, he had not included the clause, and that is why we were able to work around it.

Ok here goes. Alot of effort to get the planning officer to allow me to extend my existing property to about 5 times it original size + double garage, in the Greenbelt... Split my extant permission into 2 houses with a slightly smaller combined footprint than my large extant permission. Stuck it back in, and got refused. To be fair i had sort of , maybe, bullied him a bit about my first application. (Got a hooker to come on to him in a bar. Do the bizz, and got her to get some photos of him snorting coke from her boobs. Told him i'd make sure that his wife got the pics.) Only kidding (or am i ?) Anyway, stuck it in for appeal, and got refused. The planning inspectorate said that the extant permission was not reason to override Green Belt Policy. Fair Enough. Anyway, my permission for my big extension included removing my rights for any other buildings, schedule 2 part E i think. I came on here and said that i was going to put in for permission for some items in my garden. ie: snooker room, pole dancing room, dog kennel, reptile house, chicken shed, an actual shed, greenhouse, potting shed, workshop, etc, etc etc. The list ended up quite long, and all covered by my removed part E. Phone conversation with my planning officer yesterday. "Build what you like under part E. Finish them all, and take a load of photo's of the various structures. Do it before you start your planning permission build, and i will attach all of the photo's to your file, so ther will be no prob" I said. Am i best to leave some time between completing them, and starting my planning permission ? "Nah" he said !!!!!!!! i have always said that planning officers are top fellas. !!! I don't know if the photo's had anything to do with it. I have asked him to put that in writing, so fingers crossed i can get that out of him in the next few days, and get started. If anybody want's to visit my lap dancing emporium, let me know.

You have all come high tech on my little brain. All i know is that there was no water in the system, or any other liquid..... I just did'nt visit very often.

True Steamy Tea. most people can design and fit there own kitchens. I can usually spot the one's that have within 60secs of walking bin the room.

Just for giggles i will tell you this little one from my past. About 10 years or so ago, a friend in a flat with storage heaters, wanted to get rid of them. He basically designs weapons, bombs, and guidence systems, so he is a right tech type. He found some sort of system, that aggitated the atoms in the rooms, made them rush around, bumping into each other, which caused them to heat up. It worked really well. Fast forward a few months, and i was with a client, basically the person who invented coloured X-Rays, that are now used at every Airport etc around the world. When i explained the system that my mate had installed in his flat, she gave me a look, and said "What do you think your friend is made of ? Atoms. I wouldn't go anywhere near his flat again" That's why i used to cut up bits of wood for a living

Thanks Sensus. I'm happy with my 30 sq mt, and your clarification that i don't have to include my external walls.

If i want to build a shed, art studio etc under PD rules, and want to avoid building regs (trees and deep foundations) I know i can build a floor area of 30sq mt or under. Would you take this as the actual internal floor area, or would you include the thickness of the walls. Thanks gang.

Much slower grown, so as Peter said, should be much stronger, and much better. The one on the right is quick grown, much lighter, and looks by comparison, SH*"E. You get what you pay for.

I have done loads of EPDM. Each to there own. Personally i love it. Bit of a pain to do in winter, as below a certain temp you have to stick it down with, glue on substrate, and glue on the rubber, You only get one chance to get it down without ripples, as it aint coming up again. Much easier in better weather, when the stuff you stick it down with is like PVA and you just glue the substrate. If you get a ripple, you can pull it back to get the ripple out. Going around roof windows is a bit of a pain but not really an issue. Fibreglass. I did a large flat roof with a buddy a couple of years back, and to be honest i thought it was a right faff with movement joints etc around the parapet walls. Only my opinion, but if your roof is ply, osb or whatever it will have some movement (expansion and contraction) in cold or hot weather. I know it may only be quite small, but my small brain says. The rubber will stretch with any movement = no prob. The Fibreglass willl be rigid = ???

Granite Russell. In my opinion nothing beats it for a kitchen Worktop.

As previous posts, just do deeper worktops. Luckily, appliances these days chuck the heat out of the front. 20 years ago, an oven up against a plastic pipe, would have resulted in a melted pipe.

As Pro Dave. over the years i have done the joint under a hop to minimise the visual. You say solid laminate, but a lamination means layers of stuff stuck on to of each other. Therefore, you end up with something solid, but it is a laminate. You photo has now gone, so i can't see, but if you are talking about ordinary laminated worktops with a chipboard core, then these are pre finished on the top surface, and should never be sanded. If you are talking about corian, or one of the cheaper man made stone tops, they are usually 4 to 6mm thick on the top, stuck onto mdf or chipboard. There will be fans of Corian on this site. Personally during 25 years of supplying kitchens, i refused to sell it. Basically expensive plastic, that scratches, and dulls. Being a tight sod, i recently replaced a huge kitchen that i had fitted 20+ years ago. I re-cut, and polished a couple of edges, and used it on my daughters kitchen. You would never know, it looks as good as the day i first fitted it 20 odd years ago.

Is there any chance i can knock them over doing 20mph, and then reverse back over them trying to see what i hit. Then driving over them again as i could'nt see that i had hit anything. Just thinking, would 3 goes at 20mph do the job. ? Plenty of people on my list.

I can do all the woodwork to a better standard than that. But then he started talking computers and he lost me. I wish i was more tech savi. Nice idea though. Love it

I would get them to remove it as it would be un-enforcable. give the tossers something to do.

Don't know if it's acid rain or whatever down south, but i have never met a brickie that says any of those dye's are any good. I've seen the colour fade out in about 3 years. Mixing them consistantly to obtain a consistant colour is a right pain.

Your right Russell, just wish people would do what they promise and crack on.

If it's a combined Hot, Cold, and Boiling it will be prob 32mm. I have always done 35mm as the bottom plate of the tap covers the hole, and allows a bit of wiggle room.

I know Russell, just so bored waiting. I don't need piles because of the ground, i need it because of trees. Two large poplars, Two beech, Two Oak, and 6m conifers. If they dont get a move on i'll just do 3 mt deep footings and fill them with concrete.

I am soooooo bored waiting for the engineer to come back to me with a quote, let alone then getting him to actually do some calcs. Would anybody know what a typical loading on a pile would be ? Ground floor, block and block. first floor timber frame, roof trusses and tiles. 5/10/15/20 ton a pile at 4mts apart ? Ring beam on top of pile.

Same as me in the middle of the night when it is freezing