Big Jimbo

If you own a house that is say 10m wide x 10m deep, and you wanted to add insulation to the outside say a 75mm wrap on all sides. You would be increasing the size of your house to 10.150 wide x 10.150m deep. I believe that you could do this without planning permission. ie: under permitted devl rights. If however you had permission to build a new house at 10m x 10m and had all you building reg drawings etc done, and although the new house would meet building regs you had a thought about making it even better for future generations. So you looked at putting an extra 75mm wrap of insulation around the outside. This would enable you to smash the current building regs and get quite near to passive levels of insulation. How would it be best to approach this ? 1. Just do it, and risk somebody spotting your house is slightly bigger than it's permission. 2. Have a word with the planning officer, and see if you can do it as a small amendment (Non material amentment) ???? 3. Go back in for planning. (not an option due to objections and having to go to committee) 4. Not bother, and just build it to regs. I don't want to add it to the inside due to reducing the floor area Ant thoughts ??? Cheers folks

I don't bloody care Conor. That was still cheap as chips you git.

You lucky git Conor.

Just make sure they put the extra adhesive in the right area, so you end up with a level floor, rather than a 2mm difference between the Two areas ?. Well i thought it was funny.

That foil tape sticks very well to the foil on the PIR. I bet that whatever you coat the concrete floor with........That tape wont stay stuck for long.

Don't know about you Scotties, but down south all the muck away lorries are loaded by weight not volume. The lorry goes BEEp BEEP when the weight is reached. So getting rid of dry spoil in the summer is much cheaper than wet spoil in the winter. £350 + vat where i am for a load.

I would be leaving them 600mm max. Enough room for a not too fat builder to get in an make any repairs to the section of wall on the ground floor in the future. If at some point in the future they want to do some work on their wall higher up than they would still be able to do it. A scaffolding company would span your extension from the front to the back, no problem. And i would not be allowing them onto your land, without a full method statement, insurance in place to cover any damage to your land or property, and i would ensure that the insurance covered anybody who they employed to work on there house. I'm sorry, but you are allowing yourself to be bullied. Your extension would be much better a further 200mm wider.

There is no stipulation as to how much space you need to leave, them 800mm is more than enough. Nobody is going to make you take down a building that is completly on your own land.

If you are putting a lot of glass in your extension, you might need to have a sap calc done. If the glazed area of your extension is more than 25% of your floor area - windows and doors that you are taking out of the existing rear external wall, (putting them inside the new external envelope) then you will need a sap calc. The level of PIR in the roof will have to meet building regs for an extension. 100mm won't do it 150 or 175 might. 200mm defo should. There is no way i would put the steel within the roof structure. That is a poor idea.

That would be a fantastic addition to your house. You are not going to be made to take it down.....Your neighbour is just a bully.

I don't know Mike, but One thing i do know is make sure you get regularised timber. When i did my posh shed, i didn't, and the thickness was up to 5mm different. A right pain. I bet the BS Ones are twice the price.

Gary M. Your roof is cold and should be ventilated. It sounds like it's not !!!! So you should have 250mm of pir between your ceiling joists, and instead you have 250mm of crappy fluffy stuff. I'd be having that roof off and make them do it properly . P.S. While they are at it, make them put ventilation under the standing seam roof. That whole thing is going to cost a fair few quid to put right now.

P.S Good luck with the extension.......Now get on with it.

Fab Bobby Dazzler. Don't worry about next doors deeds. Yours says it all. If you want to build 0.8 mt from that wall you crack on. There is no stipulation as to how much room you have to allow for either them, or there tubby builder. There scaffolding etc is total tosh. Check up on the PWA and get your builder to confirm that he is only digging to the same depth as your existing foundations. Then you won't have to worry about the PWA. Because you neighbour has been such an arse, I would be making it very difficult for them to ever come on my land. Method statement required, and full insurance for any damage they might cause to your land or property.

And we all know that stiff is good, and sagging ain't.

Or a locking joint done on a router table.

What a pain for you, and no doubt a worry. What your neighbour may have done near your garage some time ago is not really something you can look at now. (Bit late) Have a read online about the party wall act. It's not just about working on a party wall, but excavating within a certain distance to somebody's property etc. Have you looked at your house deeds to see what this clause with regards allowing access for wall inspection is ? If you can tell us what it actually say's in the deeds, we might be able to help more.

Have you got your Aluminium roof on battens , and cross battens ? Is there a vertilation space under the Ali roof ? If you have no insulation above your posi beams, and only inbetween, you have a cold roof which should be vented.... I am no expert, but i don't like the sound of your roof make-up

There are a lot of smart people on here, and i am not One of them. ? Making things stiffer can only be a good thing in my opinion.

Fair play Conor fella. externally mounted extractor units are imo the best. However they are blooming expensive. Well done for sorting it out on a diy basis.

I have worked out that Kingspan K7 100mm above rafter, and 100mm inbetween would give me 0.1. However, it would be a right pain in the butt to do. An alternative will be leaving the roof cold, and putting 150mm of warmcell between the ceiling rafters, and 300mm of warmcell on top of that (total 450mm) with a vcl under the ceiling rafters, a 50mm service batten, 12.5mm plasterboard and skim would give me a "u" value of 0.09. I would just have to make sure that i left the eaves open (Not to hard) to allow the roof to breath. (ie; cold above the insulation. It will be interesting to see the price difference, but given the price of K7 and the hassle, i think it might be the way to go.

Just a thought. What about if i put a vcl layer under my ceiling layer (rafters) a service batten, (for wires etc) then plasterboard and skim. Then insulates my sloping hipped sides. with like 150mm in between, and 50mm over ? would this make my roof a "Warm" roof ? Would having my vcl layer just above my ceiling be a problem? I think i read somewhere that for a warm roof whatever insulation is outside the envelope has to be the same as whats inbetween. (ie; 50mm outside, 50mm between etc ???) Thanks for your help.

Morning guys and girls. having a bit of a mare, working out my insulation. Floor, no problem, External walls, no problem, but then i come to my roof. Shallow pitch on all sides leading upto a flat top. Pitch aprox 25 to 30 degrees. Trusses at 600 centres. As im going to all the effort of doing everything i can to make my walls airtight, with a membrane, and a service gap, i'd like to try and make my ceiling on the first floor as good if possible. leaving the roof space cold. That way i can run a vcl at ceiling level, tying it into the external walls, and creating my airtightish bubble. The total height of the roof space will only be about 1400mm high, and being triangulated trusses, there is no way i'm going to be able to get up there to insulate after , or no chance of getting a membrane around the inside of the trusses, due to all the triangulation timbers. So i am looking at insulating at ceiling level. and though about some sort of fluffy stuff between the rafters, and continuous layer of PIR under. Then battens to provide a service gap for wires, plasterboard, and skim. The problem is the u values i am getting are pants....Any smart ideas ?

Go on Toughbuttercup. People constantly make excuses for planners in councils. Poor things have so much to deal with etc. Me, i'm a plain speaker, and think they are just $hite. Temp. my planner told me on the phone that he thought my idea for Two smaller houses on the plot, instead of One large one, was a great idea. Then told me it was refused without him trying to put any sort of case for it forward, because the Parish Council objected, and they don't go against the Parish Council. W4nker$.

Jo90. You won't be cutting much with those.