Radian

Not sure I'd live long enough to print that. The design seems OK though. I wonder if those big 3D printed blocks could be laser cut out of acrylic?

Architecturally speaking, the UK national standard sets a minimum floor to ceiling height of 2.3m for at least 75% of the floor area. This rises to 2.5m for London because they're posh. Your floor to ceiling height looks to be more like 2m? You're talking about raising the ceiling but there's a good chance the roof is constructed from triangular trusses spanning between walls and the only way to raise ceiling height is with raised tie trusses which would mean replacing the whole roof. Or have you discovered something else about the roof construction?

You have to copy the file detected in a scan to a local directory e.g. /home/pi/ebusd-configuration/ebusd-2.1.x/en/vaillant/bai.308523.inc and point to it in the EBUSD_OPTS e.g. --configpath=/home/pi/ebusd-configuration/ebusd-2.1.x/en Then change any line in the configuration file that starts with r; to r1; to get mqtt to send the data every 10s. It's a fixed poll time unfortunately. If you want it faster then you have to poll it yourself.

I really don't know how you've arranged things. If you're subscribing to MQTT topics then you either have to issue periodic 'gets' or issue ebusctrl commands or edit the definition file for the boiler to get ebusd to regularly poll the parameters for you. I debugged my setup using a windows desktop program called MQTTspy which unfortunately is no longer maintained but works well enough to visualiese the traffic.

What sort of tolerance is there on your '125mm' stone? If it's regular cropped walling stone it could easily be +/-25mm. Are you laying it yourself or contracting it out?

Try specifying the temp field... mosquitto_sub -t ebusd/bai/FlowTempDesired/temp

+1 for EPS fill, This obviates the need for the SureCav and tricky buisness of fitting PIR and wall ties. Masonry work can just go up quickly and easily then the full width of the cavity is injected once the walls are complete. Ideally the cavity would be widened to at least 200mm.

What do you get if you drop the '/#'? Or try leaving out %field in the mqtt configuration

Unlike PLA and ABS filaments the glass transition point is below zero i.e. it's flexible at room temperature and above. The typical printing temperature is around 200oC so I would guess it's OK up to 100oC. UV stability is supposed to be better than PLA etc. and chemical resistance should be fairly good as you'd expect from PUR. It should be good with petrol but not engine oil. Feynman wrote at length about his experience in "What Do You Care What Other People Think?" which, like all his books, is a must-read. Yes, I've done that before and was planning to do it again when it struck me that I might be able to print something the exact size. Superglue on even tiny little drive-belts like those in CD drives is incredibly effective - but you're right about needing a jig to line up the ends. The bit that got me really excited was the prospect of making custom gaskets of arbitrary 3D printed shapes from TPU. Then I realised both parts of an electrical box in the case of the thing I'm making could be made semi-flexible and hence watertight when secured together.

I wanted a particular sized O-ring and was about to buy a selection kit when it struck me that a flexible 3D printing filament would allow me to print one instead. After a quick search, Thermoplastic Polyurethane turns out to be a thing! I'm besides myself with joy!

And... general note, to be properly scientific you need to adjust one parameter at a time 😉 Remind me what you expect disablehc to be - is it the changeover from DHW to space heating? I've been guessing that your DHW is timed to come on at 5AM at full load. It looks better now although you could do with dropping flowtempdesired to 55 or 50. The only question in my mind is why modulation keeps briefly dropping to zero. You might want to plot the State number to see what the boiler is actual doing at these points.

Ah, the philosophy of the weather rock It's a little different without battery storage though. Several big simultaneous loads might cause an import while generating whereas if they were staggered it might not. If I had my way, I'd fit all the resistive heaters around the house with my DIY PV-diverter to clip the import when generating but the suggestion didn't go down well (it's not like I haven't already successfully re-engineered the control system for the washing machine 🙄). I'll just have to be content with the HW immersion. When I was testing that initially, I did power the kettle with it and it was fun to watch the water boiling up in bursts. I just left it plugged in while the Sun was shining and if someone came along and switched the kettle on, it would get there eventually. The impatient among us weren't overly impressed, however I can see merit in the 1800W kettle I recently saw advertised. BTW Nick, your constant PF of 1 is hard to believe - is that really correct?

It's becoming an embarrassing obsession for me too. The family are nothing but polite about it, however I suspect I'm boring them with regular updates about how much Solar PV we're getting. My excuse is that they need to know in order to make best use of it when available. This is why I'm trying to come up with an easily understood signaling system that's kind of ambient in nature. A graphic display somewhere would be easy but doesn't fill the brief.

Purely personal no doubt. It's something I find difficult to pin down...but wandering round other buildings I sometimes see something I like that leaves a lasting impression. An example would be a historic home, on a bright day, with a table lamp lit in the corner of a room. Such a thing adds a cosy, romantic feel to the space and the slight decadence of burning electricity even when the Sun is shining just adds to the generosity of the effect. With highly efficient LED lighting and solar PV up on the roof, it's a little luxury that gives me pleasure without too much in the way of guilt.

My feelings are that almost any kitchen with fitted cupboards will tend to look better with under cabinet lighting for the counter tops - irrespective of the amount of natural light coming into the room. Once this is provided, the actual amount of natural ight is much less critical. Last April, when the cost of electricity tripled, I implemented an automatic dimmer to save power when the kitchen area was unoccupied. Being reduced to a lower level but remaining on means it still looks warm and inviting when viewed from adjacent areas. I note your letterbox window above the sink so maybe that area is covered but I don't know what's on the rear inside wall - that area looks to be the darkest.

If it can be attached with a bolt then these rivet-like anchors overcome the spinning rawlplug situation - so long as you insert them with the gun and not rely on the cage being pulled-in by doing up the bolt.

And do you tremble when the conditions get close to the dewpoint? 🤣 I put one in the void between the joists supporting a warm, flat, roof. Quite fascinating.

Pi's are indeed a PITA to keep going sometimes!

This is why I was trying to avoid using them. Many of the ones used in my house had slipped down over time and I just don't trust them to stay put. By sealing the PIR to the wall plate and filling the cavity, you would have a continuous insulation envelope that followed the contours of uneven wall, rafters etc. Sure, but there are different types of insulation and often installers only fit one type. If you talk to a company that only fills with blown fibres, they'll tell you its not advisable to fill - full stop. EPS beads are a different matter altogether as they don't saturate and allow water on the back of the outer leaf to drain down rather than track across. 70mm is a long distance for moisture to transfer from bead to bead and make a damp bridge. Also, the beads don't choke-off airflow entirely. I suggest you contact an EPS installer, check that they use bonded graphite beads, and ask if your location is suitable - and what guarantees they give. The bottom line is that beads are the easiest to remove in the extremely unlikely event of trouble. But I've yet to hear of anyone having trouble. We are in the highest risk zone 1, about a mile from the sea and I researched this extensively before signing-up. But if anyone can point to a case of EPS beads being a problem with driven rain, I'd be extremely interested in hearing about it!

Just publish: ebusd/bai/FlowTemp/get and ebusd/bai/FlowTemp/set with data you wish to write.

The only plot you posted that shows the actual modulation level was this one labelled Output kW: You said the ecoTec 428 minimum modulation was 5kW yet it doesn't quite seem to get down to that level so it really has to be the external control that initiates the cycling. I hope you will be plotting the modulation again when you switch to analogue control so we can see how it goes about it...

Can't see any reason for it to 'decay' like this other than if the power supply has weakened. How long have you had it?

I'm sure you can easily picture a 'continuous insulation envelope' and that's what you need to achieve. ...So insulate the cavity by getting it injected with EPS after you have fitted your PIR. So long as you don't go mad with it, lay in some expanding foam on top of the wall plate before mating it up with your PIR. If it were me, I would start by cutting the PIR into short sections with the angled end to meet the wall plate - just to get you out of the cavity area and up to where you can see it all. Then you can use an inspection mirror to look at the bottom where it meets the wall plate to make sure it's closing off the cavity. If for some reason you're unable to get the cavity wall injected, at least it will be decoupled from the ventilated soffit area and improve it's insulating effect. 50mm PIR is very little insulation, I hope you're going to lay another 50mm across it, under the rafters. Now's the time!

Hi PiMike, thanks for posting your info. The arbitration time is a little high but it doesn't seem to phase your boiler. You asked about configuring for MQTT so in addition to the host IP you might want to specify the port and wildcard the topics such as: --mqtthost=localhost --mqttport=1883 --mqtttopic=ebusd/%circuit/%name/%field Then every time you issue an ebusctl command, you will see the response sent over MQTT. It doesn't matter how the command is sent, the daemon always echo's the response. You also can use the same syntax as the responses to send command messages to the daemon over MQTT. The way I use it as configured above splits individual parameter fields into separate topics for simpler decoding but I'm not sure what happens when you publish to the topic - never did look into this. If you don't mind parsing out the individual parameters on subscriptions, just leave out %field

BTW, next time you're at the console, could you post all the output from: ebusctl info I'm curious about the arbitration timing and scan results you get using your interface. Mine reports: version: ebusd 22.4.v22.4 update check: version 23.1 available, broadcast.csv: different version available, memory.csv: different version available, vaillant/bai.308523.inc: different version available, vaillant/broadcast.csv: different version available, vaillant/errors.inc: different version available, vaillant/general.csv: different version available, vaillant/hcmode.inc: different version available device: /dev/ttyebus access: * signal: acquired symbol rate: 36 max symbol rate: 123 min arbitration micros: 1 max arbitration micros: 197 min symbol latency: 3 max symbol latency: 12 reconnects: 0 masters: 2 messages: 225 conditional: 3 poll: 10 update: 10 address 03: master #11 address 08: slave #11, scanned "MF=Vaillant;ID=BAI00;SW=0202;HW=8001", loaded "vaillant/bai.308523.inc", "vaillant/08.bai.csv" address 31: master #8, ebusd address 36: slave #8, ebusd (yes I know, there's lots of updates I'm ignoring!)