SiBee

I have just installed our Mira stone resin tray (900 x 1700) installation methods vary manufacturer to manufacturer. Mira recommends bed on a weak sand and cement mix or use a suitable construction adhesive. Their tech help confirmed CT1 would be suitable. I tried the sand/cement mix but wasn’t happy so cleaned it up and redone using a few tubes of clear CT1. Took a leap of faith with the level because once laid in position I could not prize it up off the adhesive. I had lowered with banding straps which snapped when I tried the lift. Left 24hrs and all solid and level. Check out what Rodger says on the skill builder YouTube channel. I preferred the clear CT1 for this task. Thought process being that it’s a bit thicker in consistency than the white and the bed needed to make up a 3mm gap. our previous tray which I installed approx 10 years ago was bedded on the sand and cement mix which was good for years but then developed creaking noises but no obvious movement? On removal,the bedding mix was all cracked and turning to dust. I read everything the Welsh Wizard posts, he is amazing but do check out skill builder. Mira also told me not to use tile adhesive. You don’t want to bond the tray in position. Even flexi tile adhesive won’t allow for the different expansion movements. The indecision is a painful. You already have a suitable adhesive if that helps. How much of a bed do you need to make up under the tray?

Hi members, couldn’t find my answer in previous topics so asking for some pro guidance. Bathroom refurb due to a flood. I’ve taken a big camber out of the floor so all boards now can sit flat but the area is not level. The bubble is just touching on the line. I don’t want to remove anymore from the timber beams so what’s the best way to achieve a suitable level? we have a low profile 1800 x 900 stone tray to go in which is flat underneath and the rest of the rm will be tiled with loose lay wire heating bedded into the tile adhesive for comfort and not rm heating. Should I use self level compound for the whole area and then continue or, level the tray in the adhesive of choice something like ct power grab and then tackle the remaining floor area I.e take out imperfections with adhesive > 6mm insulation boards> decoupling layer > tile adhesive with heating wire > floor tile. Tray manufacturer recommends a smooth flat surface to bed down on with a suitable silicone adhesive. The tray is very heavy so don’t want to be relifting once in place😀 Input appreciated as always ps could only upload two pics, size is inside allowance?

Great input from the posters and very useful to myself as I am busy doing a similar job. DIY is very doable and tools are very cheap. The IT guy at work showed me pass through rj45 plugs. Rather than feeding each strand into the tiny terminals, with pass through you just strip the outer sheath approx 20mm, arrange the wires in correct order and push into the plug and crimp. Add boots for strain relief too. Quicker, easier and less chance of failure. Your fingers will thank you if you have to many to do.

Fusebox: designed by electricians for electricians. My local wholesaler had an event day when this stuff was introduced to their stock. No tradie complaints and it’s well thought of. Regarding a comment in an earlier post implying that housing association contracts are maintained with cheaper goods rather than quality. Not true in my neck of the woods (NW England) stock items and reliability are important. It can prove to be a false economy to use cheap crap. Not saying all cheap stuff is crap.

That’s interesting. The flips I have used get stuck as they must expand a bit with heat transfer. Click clacks never seem to work and pop up controls are not an option with every tap. Go for it and report back😁 we have just started an en suite refurbishment due to a hidden leak

Inline fan above roof space as per first result from a search: https://www.google.co.uk/url?q=https://www.airconcentre.co.uk/products/manrose-mf150t-150mm-in-line-mixed-flow-extractor-fan-with-timer&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwiXm-Ga1dOCAxWT7LsIHf2ZAPwQFnoECAMQAg&usg=AOvVaw3jeug-YSOlsDboWTPt9cjH The fan above is very well regarded and most good outlets sell it. Been around for years. John mentions a dmev unit which I am looking at myself. These run continuously at slow speed (low noise)and boost up either switched or by the humidity sensor so not like your “normal” bathroom fan. Apologies if you already know this. I am having issues with condensation in our bathroom so dmev is one step to help address this. My existing ICON wall fan is not shifting enough air and leaving damp towels to dry doesn’t help.

Looks good and “shows off “anything grown in front of it. Is it actually black and not a dark brown? I struggled to find a black fence treatment. I have a couple of tubs of a creosote alternative which is dark brown and not the advertised black. Not had much luck with bedec barn paint on fencing?

Mine are all screwed into upvc soffit👍 May have gotten lucky and hit a timber with at least one screw. I had to drill something like a 30mm hole for the cables and balm connectors which is enough to feed a wooden packer through for your screws to fasten into. Or, what about plasplug hollow fixings or caravan cavity fixings?

It’s not just plumbing merchants, the electrical merchants have the same issues. I am having stuff delivered from online sources at cheaper prices than my local branches can themselves purchase. Car parts and tyres have been like this for yonks. Big suppliers sending in from Germany and delivering quickly.

What Russell said. If your unit is tight up against a wall,the handle might prevent full opening and you won’t be able to run tiles up to the unit either.

Try the cutter you linked. The one Miek linked also looks good but expensive like he said. Twist or jobber drill could do you an injury by throwing you around the drill! Apologies if you have skills👍 I wouldn’t fancy a Starret holesaw tbh, just seem to blunt very quickly. However, I drill Unistrut regularly and these fly through and seem to last: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4335977-18mm-sheet-steel-holesaw Not ideal for a 7mm web but with cutting fluid and taking it easy,I wouldn’t think twice about using this method. I sold a 240v mag drill the other year on a well known auction site. Had no interest for weeks until a self builder offered me £40. He was drilling beams.

The thing I have noticed with gravel beds on membrane is that it does not guarantee weed free. "stuff" accumulates in the gravel and it doesnt take much for weeds to start growing in the gravel. You cant win Gutters too. That hedgehog gutter brush is excellent for growing weeds🤥

Apologies if your an experienced hand but if like me you have have no previous experience of using this stuff,take note, It doesn’t self level😀 I assumed it would act like water and flow to a perfect level and leave me a nice flat and level surface.Wrong. Second attempt involved wearing spiked shoes a spiked roller and a fit helper to mix up whilst I spread. I had batons screwed around the perimeter as guides to level out the slope. dont ask about bubbles gasses off. Think the last stuff I used was Mapei and definitely came from Screwfix. I ordered moe than needed just in case and Screwfix have no problem with accepting returns👍 Other brands are available from other outlets too.

Exact problem happens to me on one of our factories! I don’t think I have kept any photographs however, the layout of the drain is very, very similar. About every six months I have to get the drain blasted as it doesn’t take much for stuff to hang on the lip and build up. On ours, the fall is very slight and the ground is susceptible to movement. Still not much of lip though but it’s obviously enough. Also, it’s a ladies toilet block in a factory so it sees a lot of “traffic”!!! Why do they use so much toilet roll??😀 Only happens on one of the flexi joints so maybe more of fall/lack of issue.

For heavy items I tend to go back to the gripit range. Over kill for some applications but they work well. Yellow and red sit flush and use a regular scew