eandg

I'm planning on constructing a climbing wall like this in a bedroom: From what I read online 18mm OSB/ply should be used. I have an excess of 9mm OSB - would it be wise to sandwich two cut sheets together (using PinkGrip or an adhesive) or should I just get some 18mm sheets?

Definitely - we had the same situation and our installer said just get the coupler. It's a standard product because it does the job.

If it is humid and you've not hooked up your MVHR to ventilate the place then you'd expect any poorly sealed rooflight to be the coldest place in the house and the site of condensation?

Our exposed purlins have taken a bit of a battering from expanding foam, silicone fillers and paint. Any suggestions for how best to clean them before any final staining?

And less insulation in the walls?

I can recommend and put you in touch with a firm local joiners - yard is in Drumchapel and all the boys are north west Glasgow. They've done some framing and sheeting work for me but also act as main contractors and do a lot of bigger commercial jobs (and are registered with Federation of Master Builders).

I can't find any info on the impact of airtightness on SAP - our as designed SAP is 91B presuming an ACH of 2.5. I think we subsequently upspecced the insulation but would an improved ACH (say to 1-1.5) boost the SAP a few points into an A in any case?

Our engineer advised a 45 degree angle of repose on made ground (so a 1:1 'batter'). We do though have bits that have been cut at probably 80 degrees in advance of landscaping and there's been no movement at all - I've found that spoil is fairly loose once disturbed but if it's compacted and dries then it's pretty stable.

I'm currently looking at window board options and oak veneered plywood is on the list - thinking of buying full sheets and cutting to size, including for some window seats. Thoughts? And best suppliers?

I can't see any difference at all in those images. If it's killing you then you've not paid for it so stand your ground. If it's not then I'd be inclined to say you'll accept but at a discount. Think @saveasteading's perspective on this is pretty fair. I wouldn't like to be a trade working for a lot of the posters on here!

Thanks. I had planned on two pocket doors in a tight wee space between utility and a (very small) downstairs shower room but think we'll just go with one and an archway and hide the electrics in the stud where we'd have had the second pocket.

I'm about to hit the button on two Eclisse doors but am now thrown a wee bit as I hadn't thought about light switches (@thorfun) though my main query is whether we need the door in situ when making up stud or whether this can be retrofitted after plasterboard has been fixed?

Agreed - it's don't sweat the small stuff territory.

Our installer also moved the site of our ASHP saying the regs only allowed it in sub-optimal locations where there were no alternatives. Can't recall the details as we were happy enough to adapt so didn't fight him on it.

You get 8mm perimeter strips for your internal walls. Blue foamy gear, cheap as online or four times as dear if you need to run to Screwfix the night before your screed pour like some idiots.

Looks great. I like the idea of rotating your bins based on pickup date and might incorporate that into our plans but I fear access to sticking your rubbish into bins two and three might be a right pain.

While that's true they've said to me that they can supply T&G oak panels to match the stairs but we'd need to make them up on site. So a workround of sorts - my fear was having mismatched oak.

Cheers - he's well off the clock so might be waiting a while!

Also, any thoughts on supporting a half-landing? Stairbox can supply matching T&G oak panels to be cut to size on site but I'm not sure how we'd support it - a frame screwed into studs do the job or would it need posts on the ground?

Perhaps you should have been - otherwise how can the guy be wrong if he's not working to instruction? And how would you have addressed the level change? Unless you're on top of the detail and on site to make a call if there's any issues then your screeder would have had to make the call anyway unless you want him walking off the job while the screed cures.

Not far off hitting the button on a Stairbox order but have noticed they ask for finished floor to finished floor. We're looking at having a floating (6.5mm LVT click) floor above our screed - are we okay fitting/fixing the staircase onto this, or should it go on the screed prior to flooring (albeit this may mean bottom riser is slightly shorter)?

Bit of a grey area one but if you've given him his datum of the front door and the floor levels are out and you've not advised him of this then it's arguably your fault rather than his. But either way I can't see what other resolution you have - maybe suggest to builder that you'll pay materials if he'll cover the extra labour and resolve to agree specs, measurements etc. together in future - but in the scheme of things £350 is not a lot compared to delays and the risk of guys walking off jobs.

Where ours sagged I just put some fixing bands across with a wee screw into the joist to hold it in place.

Used fairly fresh Celotex in our build, which had mostly been up for 6 months until the sheets of plasterboard have closed in around it over the past few weeks. Any gaps foamed and taped. Zero shrinkage. PIR in loft will remain exposed unless I can be bothered sheeting it so will be a good wee experiment to see if that changes.

If he does the work to the standard you expect then pay him the rate you agreed - it makes no odds to you if he's got someone else to do it or done it himself, or made more or made less on it.